The best way to CS a Tamiya TA06?
#76
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As I was looking at my TA06, I found that you might require a longer rear belt. The rear/center pulley will be larger, so that adds a little length to the belt, to be able to adjust it's tension, since the stock rear belt doesn't allow for much more in the way of adjustment, with stock pulleys....
Unless the rear diff concentric is adjusted to it's inside position, there might be enough.
I'm sitting here, running all this through my head.....Having the tensioner below rather than above would be a personal preference, I guess, but the stock tensioner placement seems kind of an afterthought, to me. The RSector chassis plate has a hole drilled so the tensioner can be relocated, so I may just do that, now that I'm thinking about it.
Unless the rear diff concentric is adjusted to it's inside position, there might be enough.
I'm sitting here, running all this through my head.....Having the tensioner below rather than above would be a personal preference, I guess, but the stock tensioner placement seems kind of an afterthought, to me. The RSector chassis plate has a hole drilled so the tensioner can be relocated, so I may just do that, now that I'm thinking about it.
#77
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I have my front belt fixed quite firm with the concentric to the rear position... it runs very smoothly.. so I though that better than being too loose and allowing slip.. so its interesting you run them a little looser... I didnt consider it to be more aggressive with the belt and wear it out more quickly when it being tighter.. Where can I get the belts of different lengths for the front and rear?..
I have seen a ta06 with a tensioner positioned on the base of the chassis where the hole is for the rear right hand side battery lid screw hole and it looks good.. you are right though, the tensioner does look like its kind of be thrown on last minute...
and whoever designed the battery lid should get a serious pay cut... the car should come standard with squares quick release battery clips.. and makes much more sense and ease of access.
the rear of my Ta06 chassis doesnt have concentrics.. it just has the holes in the walls of the gear box that the diff arms sit out through, so im not sure why yours would when they are designed exactly the same way
I have seen a ta06 with a tensioner positioned on the base of the chassis where the hole is for the rear right hand side battery lid screw hole and it looks good.. you are right though, the tensioner does look like its kind of be thrown on last minute...
and whoever designed the battery lid should get a serious pay cut... the car should come standard with squares quick release battery clips.. and makes much more sense and ease of access.
the rear of my Ta06 chassis doesnt have concentrics.. it just has the holes in the walls of the gear box that the diff arms sit out through, so im not sure why yours would when they are designed exactly the same way
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-10-2013 at 11:58 PM.
#78
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Yah, as a rule, belts that are somewhat short should be adjusted with between 1 to 3mm of "play." It is measured by pressing down with a finger directly between the pulleys (not much pressure should be applied for this), and the amount the belt "bends" is the measurement. On long belts, go to the very center between pulleys, and measure in the same way. There should be between 3 to 5mm play. I usually just go to the outside measurement for short belts (3mm) and add 1mm to the outside for long belts (6mm). The standard for these measurements is: "tight" belts are good for more torque, and looser belts are good for more RPM. In my experience, looser belts also last longer.
Now mind....too loose will allow damage, if it is too loose (stripped teeth is the most common), and too tight will stretch a belt over time (much shorter a time than looser belts), and will fail faster.
If your belts are tighter than these measurement parameters, it is too tight.
This is why I recommend a carbon chassis kit for the TA06! I got mine a couple of years ago, when the TA06 was a new release, and thought the same, about the battery door. Almost any carbon chassis kit is a major improvement. The Exotek conversion has a "swing away" electronics plate, so the battery can be slid in or out from the side. The RSector conversion is top-load. Since I'm not a fan of "swing away" anything, I opted for the RSector, and am very happy with it. It is the least expensive, and comes with a new aluminum steering assembly that puts the servo on the right side, to better balance the chassis.
Yah....I forget the TA06 is gear driven in the rear end - No concentric. That makes things a little more complicated, as a new belt will have to be purchased. I forget which - either CS Junkies or DriftMission has a link where you can get Tetsujin belts in whatever length you need. Rather than scour the web looking for a belt supplier, just go to either of those sites and look for the Tetsujin link. Count the teeth on the long belt. You will need a belt approx. the number of extra teeth that is added at the front/center pulley. I'm not certain you will need a front belt, though. I think just using the spacer method and concentrics, you can mount the size pulleys you need, and everything will go together O.K.
Now mind....too loose will allow damage, if it is too loose (stripped teeth is the most common), and too tight will stretch a belt over time (much shorter a time than looser belts), and will fail faster.
If your belts are tighter than these measurement parameters, it is too tight.
This is why I recommend a carbon chassis kit for the TA06! I got mine a couple of years ago, when the TA06 was a new release, and thought the same, about the battery door. Almost any carbon chassis kit is a major improvement. The Exotek conversion has a "swing away" electronics plate, so the battery can be slid in or out from the side. The RSector conversion is top-load. Since I'm not a fan of "swing away" anything, I opted for the RSector, and am very happy with it. It is the least expensive, and comes with a new aluminum steering assembly that puts the servo on the right side, to better balance the chassis.
Yah....I forget the TA06 is gear driven in the rear end - No concentric. That makes things a little more complicated, as a new belt will have to be purchased. I forget which - either CS Junkies or DriftMission has a link where you can get Tetsujin belts in whatever length you need. Rather than scour the web looking for a belt supplier, just go to either of those sites and look for the Tetsujin link. Count the teeth on the long belt. You will need a belt approx. the number of extra teeth that is added at the front/center pulley. I'm not certain you will need a front belt, though. I think just using the spacer method and concentrics, you can mount the size pulleys you need, and everything will go together O.K.
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Not necessarily.
I still have that JRXS-R, because it has the smoothest, most drag-free drivetrain of any of the belt-driven chassis I have. Anything I put in it stays cool! The TA06 isn't very drag-free, so I adjust the belts accordingly. You can adjust the belts any way you wish, but be mindful that tighter belts mean more drag, with a corresponding increase in heat. The belts will also stretch faster and require replacement sooner.
I still have that JRXS-R, because it has the smoothest, most drag-free drivetrain of any of the belt-driven chassis I have. Anything I put in it stays cool! The TA06 isn't very drag-free, so I adjust the belts accordingly. You can adjust the belts any way you wish, but be mindful that tighter belts mean more drag, with a corresponding increase in heat. The belts will also stretch faster and require replacement sooner.
#85
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Good deal! My friend will want to know sources you get your pulleys from, etc.,
I just altered a front/center pulley for my JRXS-R, to get the CS ratio up higher - from 1.33 to 1.62! That will put it near the same ratio as my VDF (1.60), so I can see how each chassis drifts now.
Currently, I'm having trouble finding the right size washers, so may have to pop down to the hardware store in a day or two......
I just altered a front/center pulley for my JRXS-R, to get the CS ratio up higher - from 1.33 to 1.62! That will put it near the same ratio as my VDF (1.60), so I can see how each chassis drifts now.
Currently, I'm having trouble finding the right size washers, so may have to pop down to the hardware store in a day or two......
#90
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Why not bling the TA06 out?
You could do a carbon conversion! They definitely solve some of the stock chassis' shortcomings, that bottom-load battery for one. I'm pretty sure RSector will ship to you, and their conversion is $85 US. That's the cheapest-cost carbon conversion I know of.
Barring that, a trailer might be an interesting project. Kind of simplistic, but something to occupy your time. Then you'll want a truck to haul it with!
You could do a carbon conversion! They definitely solve some of the stock chassis' shortcomings, that bottom-load battery for one. I'm pretty sure RSector will ship to you, and their conversion is $85 US. That's the cheapest-cost carbon conversion I know of.
Barring that, a trailer might be an interesting project. Kind of simplistic, but something to occupy your time. Then you'll want a truck to haul it with!
#91
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Yea the r sector is nice :-) it looks great and is much more practical, am I right in thinking the r sector comes with a steering linkage and a fan? It's silly getting a fan with it, and I already have an alloy steering linkage
as good and as nice as the r sector is it still has annoying little screwy fasteners which look fiddley.... And my nice blue alloy rear stiffener wouldnt fit as they are different to the r rector ones with the redesign..is the one that comes with the r sector alloy or plastic?
as good and as nice as the r sector is it still has annoying little screwy fasteners which look fiddley.... And my nice blue alloy rear stiffener wouldnt fit as they are different to the r rector ones with the redesign..is the one that comes with the r sector alloy or plastic?
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-11-2013 at 02:38 PM.
#92
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It's alloy.
In fact, it's all alloy and carbon! Those top fasteners aren't as fiddly as you might think - two of them don't really unscrew all the way off. They also don't need to be screwed on tight, either. they stay snug, once snugged up...that's all!
The other thing about the steering is, it's all bearing supported, and the RSector's chassis is S-T-I-F-F! No flex, whatsoever. It will definitely keep you on your toes, suspension-wise, because your suspension settings will have to be close to spot-on, then! I was pleasantly surprised at this, because many chassis have some flex, which allows you to "flub" suspension settings. The RSector has to be tuned carefully!
It does have a few problems, however.....the servo mount requires the use of a lo-pro servo, otherwise, a standard servo will stick out on the right side, but this is a small thing, since left/right balance is evened up, with the RSector arrangement. The kit also doesn't come with any instructions, but the kit is so easy to assemble just by looking at the pics at the website, you really don't need any. About the only place I had to think about, are the spacing washers that were included, for the steering bellcranks, to remove vertical slop. Everything else is pretty straightforward.
As I said, it's the cheapest carbon conversion available for the TA06, pricewise, and the quality is top-notch.
I found some washers to fit the center shaft on the JRXS-R! I'll be fiddling with it tonight, to see if I can finish up the CS, without ordering anything extra. About the only part I might have to, is the belt, but I'll see.......
And yes, the RSector comes with alloy rear stiffeners and a fan! It even comes with it's own screws.
EDIT:
That pulley works, but I'll require a new, slightly shorter belt.
In fact, it's all alloy and carbon! Those top fasteners aren't as fiddly as you might think - two of them don't really unscrew all the way off. They also don't need to be screwed on tight, either. they stay snug, once snugged up...that's all!
The other thing about the steering is, it's all bearing supported, and the RSector's chassis is S-T-I-F-F! No flex, whatsoever. It will definitely keep you on your toes, suspension-wise, because your suspension settings will have to be close to spot-on, then! I was pleasantly surprised at this, because many chassis have some flex, which allows you to "flub" suspension settings. The RSector has to be tuned carefully!
It does have a few problems, however.....the servo mount requires the use of a lo-pro servo, otherwise, a standard servo will stick out on the right side, but this is a small thing, since left/right balance is evened up, with the RSector arrangement. The kit also doesn't come with any instructions, but the kit is so easy to assemble just by looking at the pics at the website, you really don't need any. About the only place I had to think about, are the spacing washers that were included, for the steering bellcranks, to remove vertical slop. Everything else is pretty straightforward.
As I said, it's the cheapest carbon conversion available for the TA06, pricewise, and the quality is top-notch.
I found some washers to fit the center shaft on the JRXS-R! I'll be fiddling with it tonight, to see if I can finish up the CS, without ordering anything extra. About the only part I might have to, is the belt, but I'll see.......
And yes, the RSector comes with alloy rear stiffeners and a fan! It even comes with it's own screws.
EDIT:
That pulley works, but I'll require a new, slightly shorter belt.
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-11-2013 at 07:57 PM.
#93
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Ah ok well thats good then,, if they arent fiddly, I HATE fiddly lol..
The steering I have is all bearing supported too.. do you get the overdose style steering or is is different again? Can the steering be reversed to have the servo on the left?
My carbon reinforced chassis is very stiff too..
Yes I wouldnt be up for buying another servo.. the slim ones are expensive..
PFFFff who needs instructions lol..
Thats good you found the bits you needed..
The steering I have is all bearing supported too.. do you get the overdose style steering or is is different again? Can the steering be reversed to have the servo on the left?
My carbon reinforced chassis is very stiff too..
Yes I wouldnt be up for buying another servo.. the slim ones are expensive..
PFFFff who needs instructions lol..
Thats good you found the bits you needed..
#94
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The steering on the RSector is like the Overdose, but not exactly the same. And no, the servo can be mounted only on the right side, unless you use a different set of bellcranks. Right-side mounting is optimum, anyway, since that evens out chassis balance, if ESC is mounted on the left, which is cleaner since there aren't any motor wires crossing the chassis, the battery being top-load.
And there is a marked difference between the stiffness of the TA06 carbon-reinforced chassis plate, and the RSector. There is still a bit of flex in the carbon-reinforced plate. There is NONE, in the RSector. You can easily see the difference!
As for servos, like I said, it's not necessary, but recommended that you have a lo-pro. It's mostly just for looks, but you will be spending some time on mounting and linkage. Every one of us that did this conversion had to (I have three friends who also did this conversion).
As for me, I'm dead in the water now......have to wait a few days until I can order that F1 kit.......
And there is a marked difference between the stiffness of the TA06 carbon-reinforced chassis plate, and the RSector. There is still a bit of flex in the carbon-reinforced plate. There is NONE, in the RSector. You can easily see the difference!
As for servos, like I said, it's not necessary, but recommended that you have a lo-pro. It's mostly just for looks, but you will be spending some time on mounting and linkage. Every one of us that did this conversion had to (I have three friends who also did this conversion).
As for me, I'm dead in the water now......have to wait a few days until I can order that F1 kit.......
#95
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I guess that makes sense mounting it on the right side then. Which low pro do you have? You did say previously a little flex is good so unusual you big up the r sector so much as it's a contradiction from what you said before
#97
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I use the Spektrum S6070 exclusively. The Savox SC1251 is the same, internally, and both go for around $60 US. They are both fast (.9 transit speed) and both are metal geared.
Yes, I did mention flex is beneficial for drift, and that won't change. I also mentioned previously, that a stiff chassis will require more precise adjustments, which is also why I don't recommend the IFS, because it is not as precise to adjust, as a standard stand up shock tower arrangement. The thing about stiff chassis is, you can easily see what and how adjustments do, and work. It's all a learning experience!
#98
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Very Cool!! Keep the sources you get the parts from handy, as my friend will definitely hit you up for them. He will also want to CS his TA06, when he gets his kit! I think he may do the RSector conversion, as well.
#99
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No worried, will do.. I fitted my springs tonight from eBay source...and also the aluminium tensioner I got from asiatees.. The blue alloy part is great but it came with a pre made double plastic bearing attachment so naturally the plastic bearings got binned and I made a proper attachment with spare metal bearings and washers.
#100
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Will do the job very nicely