hey 46u
thanks. yea i would want a 12v one too. so i can use my car battery or one of those 12v jumper boxes.
i`m thinking of getting a hyper 8 down the road.
why an engine on the right side make a difference. couldn`t i just hold the mt2 the other way around so the engine
spins the right way.
i think i need to see one before i buy one. i seen guys use them
but i never paid no mind to them.
i`m using a roto start on my mt2 and my new rs4 when i get it but i would like a starter box for back up when the roto start batterys
die or i have problem with the one way bearings.

Some of the dual 7.2 volts have it where you can use 12 volts but they have 2 smaller motors and I prefer having the one high torque 12 motor. Go to Towers or a web site like that and just do some looking. You can just about make any starter box work but I prefer it to work properly. Some of the starter boxes do not allow you to switch the motor from the left side to the right like we need for the MT. Most RC vehicles have the engine on the left with the MT being one of the few exceptions. Like I said I am fairly new to starter boxes my self.

now i`m thinking.
i saw one guy with just a motor mounted on a piece of wood.
no box. no nothing. just a motor mounted with the rubber wheel.
he started everything he had.
maybe thats something to think about.
about the only thing to worry about is making sure i spin the engine the right way.
by holding the car this way or that.

Yes and some just take a motor with the rubber wheel and hold it in their hand. But being I race and hope one day if my health olds out to do some sanction racing I need to have it where a pit person can start it quickly with out a problem. If it were not for racing I would stick with my pull starters. My race Savage is pull starter and once again this past weekend took home the bacon with it.

hey 46u
you ok??? something you want to talk about??? if not??? i understand.
i`ll surf around the web to get some ideas on a starter motor.

Be glade to help any way I can if I can. Do not mine talking about starter boxes even thaw I am fairly new to them myself and can only tell you what I have found out in such a short time. Sorry if I gave the wrong impressions as that was not my intentions at all.

I previously mentioned that the three little bearings in my CB often need replacing.
I now have a new CB and three more little bearings.
SIM2U (and/or anybody else). Are you saying I should put a washer against the motor and one on the outside of the CB? I have only put a little 5x10 washer on the outside/away side previously. The CB can move back and forth on the motor shaft a bit. Seems that little washer just stops the CB and bearings from coming off the end of the motor shaft. That little washer gets eaten up a bit too.
Looking at the exploded view, there is just one 5x10 washer on the end of the motor shaft. Then again, that is for the T15 motor and I now have the OS18. Should the CB not be allowed to shift forward and back on the shaft...not talking much there, but there is some play.
BTW: Had a gas with it the other evening playing at the local golf coarse. I know the guy as we often have fly-ins there on the 9th fairway. Nobody was golfing so I was jumping sand traps and climbing gravel piles.

Coo

One more thing.
I mentioned that I'm on my second one-way-bearing for pull start...and it doesn't always engage. It might only chug the motor once or twice per pull versus the full 6-7-8 chugs per pull with a new one way bearing.
It was mentioned that the oil content might have something to do with it and cleaning the one-way-bearing might help.

Is the problem that there is to much oil/glow fuel getting in there?
Maybe I should dunk the one-way-bearing in a cup of solvent or something to clean out some of the nitro that is in there?

I'm useing purple Trinety 12=oil 20=nitro.

Would like the one-way to fully encage as it takes some repetitive pulling to get her started fiirst time. After running and refueling, it engages/catches good and hard and no problem starting. Just first time with cold motor.

Thanx Boyz

Coo

No 12% oil content should not be a problem; I do not like running any higher. The only reason I mentioned it was I have seen people running up to 18% with a lot of problems with one ways. I know that some times when your one way goes to slipping you can clean it and it helps. How many gallons do you have on your OS 18? On the play in the CB I like to make it where I have just a very little but still spins free. I all so recommend if you are running the stock set up for the RTR to change to the Savage or MT SS set up as I recommended before.

Need to change the gearing on my MT as 13CB and 49 spur is way to low for my OS .18 TZ. I all so found out the first thing I do not like about my Spektrum which was my fault there is no low battery fail safe for the receiver. Yes my MT with the TZ ran off in to a chain link fence but nothing broke.

sorry. its just the way i read it.
i thought you were sick or something.
you have given me nothing but good tips.
and i do thank you for that.
long live to 46u

I am sorry, as my communication skills have never been real good.

man i cant wait til i have the money to get a mt2 18ss kit... ill probably end up waiting til christmas since i really wanna put an exhaust on my 1:1 truck. for now im stuck with my kinda boring on road

ok great. all is well.
lets talk nitro cars again. vrooooooom

Hi guys, have another question again! I run a 18SS and I'm trying to get rid of the "slack" in the steering. The steering assembly has been updated to alloy, so there is no play there now, and I also have a very strong metal gear digital servo. The weakest link now is I think the stock servo saver installed on the servo. The return spring seems to not quite center the front wheels. Do you guys actually use a servo saver for the steering? Not quite sure I want to get rid of it, because if I crash, might wreck my servo. Or perhaps there are some "stiffer" aftermarket servo savers? Thanks for any suggestions.

I have a MT2 that I bought about a year and a half ago. It's had about a half gallon through it. About a year ago it had throttle problems where it would run full throttle all the time. The servos were working correctly but the thing on the left side of the engine wasn't turning with it as it should. (Sorry that I don't know the right terminology.) While I was working on it it ran out of fuel and I gave up. I put it in storage for a year and now it won't start at all. I reset the carb settings to the factory recommendations (front one 3 turns out from closed, right one flush with the sleeve). There is fuel in the tank and it's primed, but it won't start. Air filter is clean and exhaust is hooked up to the tank. I can feel the vacuum on the air filter while the engine is cranking. The glow plug heater has a fresh battery. Anything obvious that I might be missing, or suggestions on how to get it to fire? Thanks for any help at all.

did u take out your glow plug to see if it lights up? Glow plug could be bad and are you using the same gas from one year ago if so get new gas

what air filter oil do you guys run? let me know thanks

i`m runnnig the hpi 2 stage filter.
part # 87121

This is the air filter I am running, as the carburetor on my TZ is the same size as big blocks. This came with the engine I put in my buggy as the buggy came with it’s own filter.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZ77&P=V

i just got my hands onto a 5 cell nihi battery (i think thats right) for the servos buts its dead what kinda charger do you need for it ? im at a loss for this one thanks

There are all sorts of charges that will work but you have to figure out how much you want to spend and how fast do you want it to charge.
This is what I use for just about all my batteries. Takes me about and hour to charge my receiver pack.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLD5&P=0

Ive had a mt2ss for a while and it is a great car... Only problem ive had with it is the pull starter... so im upgrading to a roto start
I was wondering if anyone has put a hummer body on their car and if i you could send a few pics if u have.... anything will be apreaciated even tell me if u think they look good or out of place or somethin... ALso when i want to take my car of jump and bumps should i have mostly alloy in or mostly plastic...
Thx any help will be apreciated

These are some great shocks and are better than the original HPI versions: http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=27698

an hour ,how long do the batteries last in life span if it charges them up that fast and if you dont mind what type you running 46u,i,m just using those everready nimh 2500 batteries in both my receiver and transmitter rtr stuff of course money tight will upgrade in time with all other toys lol

I have some CHEAP humpbacks that are over 5 years old that work fine. I have replaced a few in the last couple of months as I figured I got 5 years out of a $8 to $10 hump pack no sense pushing it. I all so discharge them after each day of use but not totally. Matter of fact the people that make the packs say I charger them at 1.5 amps but I normally charge them at about 1.2 amps. Yes they charge in 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

For my TX I use AA batteries that charge in 15 minutes. But that is 4 at a time so it takes about ½ hour or a little more to do all 8.