Official HPI MT2 Thread
09-28-2006 | 06:15 PM
#7801
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From: Macon,
GA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
This is the 15 minute Rayovac I use in my TX as well as I use there AAA for my Mini-Z’s.
http://www.rayovac.com/recharge/char_ps5.htm
I have 2 of these packs.
http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=509
2 of these packs
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...temID=10155.16
The newest ones I got are these as the have higher mAh
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUE0&P=7
http://www.rayovac.com/recharge/char_ps5.htm
I have 2 of these packs.
http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=509
2 of these packs
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...temID=10155.16
The newest ones I got are these as the have higher mAh
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUE0&P=7
09-28-2006 | 08:13 PM
#7802
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
thanks 46u for info ,i,m just not sure which packs a want to get i want longer lasting power supply especially on cold days.winters coming but it aint going to stop me from bashing in the snow,i got a list on towers like you wouldnt believe for what i would like to get in time
09-28-2006 | 08:19 PM
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From: saint paul,
MN
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
just wondering everyones thoughts. i have the .12 in my mt2 now and i want to put a bigger motor in my car, but i want to do it on a budget but i still want more speed than i have now, what do you guys think? and how many extra things do i have to do if i change the motor?/
09-28-2006 | 11:21 PM
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RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Hello all,
I just finished updating myself with the last 10 pages of this forum and would like to throw my 2 cents in. First off I drive all my RC cars and trucks very hard but I do maintain them excellently. If there are any weak points in my truck I will find them. I would like to comment on 2 things I read in the last few pages, one of them is the C Hubs.
I have always had problems with the stock plastic C hubs stripping on all my MT and MT2's so I spend $15 shipped on Ebay for a pair of aluminum C Hubs on 2 separate occasions, I think the ones I got are made by GMP and are definitely not billet, though I am confident that I will never have a problem with these front hubs ever again. IMO I think it is worth it to buy the inexpensive C Hubs and put the money saved into something else on the truck, rather than spending more then double the amount on the billet C Hubs just to have stronger hubs that don’t need to be that strong. Lets face it the truck came with PLASTIC C Hubs that will not hold up the slightest punishment without having problems and many people out there run the stock plastic hubs for a while without problems. I think it is overkill to limit your self to the billet C Hubs only. I am motivated to write this to inform the RC New comers not to be afraid of buying the cheaper hubs and save the extra money for other things needed on the truck. Don't get me wrong I know billet is much stronger and better quality and if I had deep pockets I would probably by the billet hubs instead but I don't.
The second thing I would like to comment on is the lightened flywheel.
If by putting on a lightened flywheel makes you engine idle poorly you engine is not tuned correctly. I ran both the stock heavy flywheels and lightened flywheels on all my engine which include the stock HPI .15 and .18ss, Picco .12 and .15, and my OS .18 CV-r without any idle problems. I notice the best results on the under powered HPI .15, I got more bottom end by putting on lightened FW and did not loose any top end speed. IMO by installing the lightened FW you have everything to gain and nothing to loose. For anyone thinking about installing one on the car or truck GO FOR IT. Heavy flywheels are designed for 2wd Stadium trucks that need the power and torque to be toned down and more liner to prevent wheel spin and get better traction, These heavy flywheels are usually installed on trucks like the RC10GT and Losi XXNT to name a few.
Sorry about the long post but it’s not often I get to contribute.
I would hate to discourage the less experienced drivers from trying new things because they read in this forum not to run cheaper hubs or lightened flywheels when they can only benefit from doing so. There is a lot of great advise in this forum but there is also strongly imposed opinions here as well. I am not attacking anyone so please nobody take this personal and get off topic to attack me. I am just trying to advise the less experience modelers not to be discouraged by what is sometimes written in this forum and be open minded to everything.
I just finished updating myself with the last 10 pages of this forum and would like to throw my 2 cents in. First off I drive all my RC cars and trucks very hard but I do maintain them excellently. If there are any weak points in my truck I will find them. I would like to comment on 2 things I read in the last few pages, one of them is the C Hubs.
I have always had problems with the stock plastic C hubs stripping on all my MT and MT2's so I spend $15 shipped on Ebay for a pair of aluminum C Hubs on 2 separate occasions, I think the ones I got are made by GMP and are definitely not billet, though I am confident that I will never have a problem with these front hubs ever again. IMO I think it is worth it to buy the inexpensive C Hubs and put the money saved into something else on the truck, rather than spending more then double the amount on the billet C Hubs just to have stronger hubs that don’t need to be that strong. Lets face it the truck came with PLASTIC C Hubs that will not hold up the slightest punishment without having problems and many people out there run the stock plastic hubs for a while without problems. I think it is overkill to limit your self to the billet C Hubs only. I am motivated to write this to inform the RC New comers not to be afraid of buying the cheaper hubs and save the extra money for other things needed on the truck. Don't get me wrong I know billet is much stronger and better quality and if I had deep pockets I would probably by the billet hubs instead but I don't.
The second thing I would like to comment on is the lightened flywheel.
If by putting on a lightened flywheel makes you engine idle poorly you engine is not tuned correctly. I ran both the stock heavy flywheels and lightened flywheels on all my engine which include the stock HPI .15 and .18ss, Picco .12 and .15, and my OS .18 CV-r without any idle problems. I notice the best results on the under powered HPI .15, I got more bottom end by putting on lightened FW and did not loose any top end speed. IMO by installing the lightened FW you have everything to gain and nothing to loose. For anyone thinking about installing one on the car or truck GO FOR IT. Heavy flywheels are designed for 2wd Stadium trucks that need the power and torque to be toned down and more liner to prevent wheel spin and get better traction, These heavy flywheels are usually installed on trucks like the RC10GT and Losi XXNT to name a few.
Sorry about the long post but it’s not often I get to contribute.
I would hate to discourage the less experienced drivers from trying new things because they read in this forum not to run cheaper hubs or lightened flywheels when they can only benefit from doing so. There is a lot of great advise in this forum but there is also strongly imposed opinions here as well. I am not attacking anyone so please nobody take this personal and get off topic to attack me. I am just trying to advise the less experience modelers not to be discouraged by what is sometimes written in this forum and be open minded to everything.
09-29-2006 | 08:36 AM
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From: Bay Shore,
NY
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: tattguy12
just wondering everyones thoughts. i have the .12 in my mt2 now and i want to put a bigger motor in my car, but i want to do it on a budget but i still want more speed than i have now, what do you guys think? and how many extra things do i have to do if i change the motor?/
just wondering everyones thoughts. i have the .12 in my mt2 now and i want to put a bigger motor in my car, but i want to do it on a budget but i still want more speed than i have now, what do you guys think? and how many extra things do i have to do if i change the motor?/
IMO and I think many others would agree you could not do better than the OS .18 CV-r for around $100. They are very reliable, easy to tune and very powerful. The only problem is if you have the MT2 RTR version you will need to strengthen the drive tran if you have not done so already, which will be additional costs.
Good luck
09-29-2006 | 09:20 AM
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From: Macon,
GA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
A lot of what a person runs is personally preference and way a person drives as well as where! Not only from experience but also from reading many articles in RC magazines is my opinion on lighten flywheels and I will leave it at that. As far as cast over billet I lived it and know that I will only put the best on mine because of experiencing cast! 
09-29-2006 | 03:59 PM
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From: ct,
CT
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Just got my truck out of hibernation, probably close to 8 months, switched jobs and had little time. Anything I should do before running some fuel through it? This was my first nitro, all other RC's were electric. Truck is broken in. Any help would be good.
09-29-2006 | 04:54 PM
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From: Lowell,
MA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
I'm with ya on this as I'm just a casual RC'r and really don't bash or beat the hell out off my truck, GPM or Alloy is fine for me especially on the wallet. Billet is great... if you decide to jump the Grand Canyon.
ORIGINAL: Joebaby35
Hello all,
I just finished updating myself with the last 10 pages of this forum and would like to throw my 2 cents in. First off I drive all my RC cars and trucks very hard but I do maintain them excellently. If there are any weak points in my truck I will find them. I would like to comment on 2 things I read in the last few pages, one of them is the C Hubs.
I have always had problems with the stock plastic C hubs stripping on all my MT and MT2's so I spend $15 shipped on Ebay for a pair of aluminum C Hubs on 2 separate occasions, I think the ones I got are made by GMP and are definitely not billet, though I am confident that I will never have a problem with these front hubs ever again. IMO I think it is worth it to buy the inexpensive C Hubs and put the money saved into something else on the truck, rather than spending more then double the amount on the billet C Hubs just to have stronger hubs that don’t need to be that strong. Lets face it the truck came with PLASTIC C Hubs that will not hold up the slightest punishment without having problems and many people out there run the stock plastic hubs for a while without problems. I think it is overkill to limit your self to the billet C Hubs only. I am motivated to write this to inform the RC New comers not to be afraid of buying the cheaper hubs and save the extra money for other things needed on the truck. Don't get me wrong I know billet is much stronger and better quality and if I had deep pockets I would probably by the billet hubs instead but I don't.
The second thing I would like to comment on is the lightened flywheel.
If by putting on a lightened flywheel makes you engine idle poorly you engine is not tuned correctly. I ran both the stock heavy flywheels and lightened flywheels on all my engine which include the stock HPI .15 and .18ss, Picco .12 and .15, and my OS .18 CV-r without any idle problems. I notice the best results on the under powered HPI .15, I got more bottom end by putting on lightened FW and did not loose any top end speed. IMO by installing the lightened FW you have everything to gain and nothing to loose. For anyone thinking about installing one on the car or truck GO FOR IT. Heavy flywheels are designed for 2wd Stadium trucks that need the power and torque to be toned down and more liner to prevent wheel spin and get better traction, These heavy flywheels are usually installed on trucks like the RC10GT and Losi XXNT to name a few.
Sorry about the long post but it’s not often I get to contribute.
I would hate to discourage the less experienced drivers from trying new things because they read in this forum not to run cheaper hubs or lightened flywheels when they can only benefit from doing so. There is a lot of great advise in this forum but there is also strongly imposed opinions here as well. I am not attacking anyone so please nobody take this personal and get off topic to attack me. I am just trying to advise the less experience modelers not to be discouraged by what is sometimes written in this forum and be open minded to everything.
Hello all,
I just finished updating myself with the last 10 pages of this forum and would like to throw my 2 cents in. First off I drive all my RC cars and trucks very hard but I do maintain them excellently. If there are any weak points in my truck I will find them. I would like to comment on 2 things I read in the last few pages, one of them is the C Hubs.
I have always had problems with the stock plastic C hubs stripping on all my MT and MT2's so I spend $15 shipped on Ebay for a pair of aluminum C Hubs on 2 separate occasions, I think the ones I got are made by GMP and are definitely not billet, though I am confident that I will never have a problem with these front hubs ever again. IMO I think it is worth it to buy the inexpensive C Hubs and put the money saved into something else on the truck, rather than spending more then double the amount on the billet C Hubs just to have stronger hubs that don’t need to be that strong. Lets face it the truck came with PLASTIC C Hubs that will not hold up the slightest punishment without having problems and many people out there run the stock plastic hubs for a while without problems. I think it is overkill to limit your self to the billet C Hubs only. I am motivated to write this to inform the RC New comers not to be afraid of buying the cheaper hubs and save the extra money for other things needed on the truck. Don't get me wrong I know billet is much stronger and better quality and if I had deep pockets I would probably by the billet hubs instead but I don't.
The second thing I would like to comment on is the lightened flywheel.
If by putting on a lightened flywheel makes you engine idle poorly you engine is not tuned correctly. I ran both the stock heavy flywheels and lightened flywheels on all my engine which include the stock HPI .15 and .18ss, Picco .12 and .15, and my OS .18 CV-r without any idle problems. I notice the best results on the under powered HPI .15, I got more bottom end by putting on lightened FW and did not loose any top end speed. IMO by installing the lightened FW you have everything to gain and nothing to loose. For anyone thinking about installing one on the car or truck GO FOR IT. Heavy flywheels are designed for 2wd Stadium trucks that need the power and torque to be toned down and more liner to prevent wheel spin and get better traction, These heavy flywheels are usually installed on trucks like the RC10GT and Losi XXNT to name a few.
Sorry about the long post but it’s not often I get to contribute.
I would hate to discourage the less experienced drivers from trying new things because they read in this forum not to run cheaper hubs or lightened flywheels when they can only benefit from doing so. There is a lot of great advise in this forum but there is also strongly imposed opinions here as well. I am not attacking anyone so please nobody take this personal and get off topic to attack me. I am just trying to advise the less experience modelers not to be discouraged by what is sometimes written in this forum and be open minded to everything.
09-30-2006 | 11:06 AM
#7811
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From: Tokyo, , JAPAN
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Well my C-Hubs are GPM - although I dont really like GPM much, there are better products on market that are better and just as cheap, but mine are a year and a half old; and they have neither broken nor bent so far. But then again, I dont go bashing as such, trying to jump with my MT2 that, which I should only attempt with a savage or something with as much travel and beefed up suspension.
With the flywheels, yeah I agree...I have lightened flywheels on nearly all my RC and some are the fanned race versions to bring in cool air and work VERY well. But in terms of saving money, there are so MANY mods that you can do that are better than or just as good as the purchased versions...if you think laterally.
But I have to say that Billet is worth it in the long run. Not to say dont buy GPM or other cast parts, but the long term performance and cost outweighs the price of the parts.
With the flywheels, yeah I agree...I have lightened flywheels on nearly all my RC and some are the fanned race versions to bring in cool air and work VERY well. But in terms of saving money, there are so MANY mods that you can do that are better than or just as good as the purchased versions...if you think laterally.
But I have to say that Billet is worth it in the long run. Not to say dont buy GPM or other cast parts, but the long term performance and cost outweighs the price of the parts.
09-30-2006 | 02:05 PM
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From: Macon,
GA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Too many variables in that question like which Hellfire. A Hellfire SS with a good engine no way. Could it yes chance being low if the MT is running the stock HPI .18SS.
09-30-2006 | 03:01 PM
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From: Macon,
GA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
If you are going by advertised speeds good luck. I am sorry but all out speed does nothing for me as I race off road and handling means much more as you can only go so fast and stay off the lid.
My MT with big brother and sister. All so a picture of my MT with the TZ installed. I am going to change the tuned pipe to an OS one day. I have 19 RC cars and trucks but these three are my favorite. I have not run my buggy yet but my Savage and MT before TZ has MANY, MANY gallons of run time.
My MT with big brother and sister. All so a picture of my MT with the TZ installed. I am going to change the tuned pipe to an OS one day. I have 19 RC cars and trucks but these three are my favorite. I have not run my buggy yet but my Savage and MT before TZ has MANY, MANY gallons of run time.
09-30-2006 | 03:35 PM
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From: Macon,
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RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
One other thing about the RTR Hellfire it will break long before the MT2 SS. People at my local track have a hard time just making it through a night of racing. I would like to get a Hellfire but if I did it would only be the SS kit! 
09-30-2006 | 04:16 PM
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From: Midlothian, VA,
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Do you drive your cars with the body on?? I'd like to drive it with the body on, but the truck overheats after about a half tank so I just drive it around with the body off. I was thinking about cutting out some cooling holes in the body, but I don't want to go cutting up the body before I know that it will help. So what do you guys do??
09-30-2006 | 04:20 PM
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From: Macon,
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RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Most of the time I drive with the bodies on and do not have a problem with over heating even in 100-degree weather. The bodies sure do protect a lot.
10-01-2006 | 07:27 AM
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From: Bay Shore,
NY
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: Mike2002
Do you drive your cars with the body on?? I'd like to drive it with the body on, but the truck overheats after about a half tank so I just drive it around with the body off. I was thinking about cutting out some cooling holes in the body, but I don't want to go cutting up the body before I know that it will help. So what do you guys do??
Do you drive your cars with the body on?? I'd like to drive it with the body on, but the truck overheats after about a half tank so I just drive it around with the body off. I was thinking about cutting out some cooling holes in the body, but I don't want to go cutting up the body before I know that it will help. So what do you guys do??
10-01-2006 | 07:34 AM
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From: Bay Shore,
NY
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: rc monkey
Could the mt2 18ss beat the hellfire? Not on a proper track just bashing in the street
Which would win a drag race?
Thanks
Could the mt2 18ss beat the hellfire? Not on a proper track just bashing in the street
Which would win a drag race?
Thanks
10-01-2006 | 09:16 AM
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From: Perrysburg,
OH
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Anyone?
ORIGINAL: SNK SKNR
Ok, I think its time for some upgrades to my MT2....just wanted to make sure the parts I was lookin at were the right ones. First off, its basically a bone stock RTR MT2...so far here is the list...
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=0]O.S. CV-RX .18 Engine[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000424471&I=LXJYM2&P=K]HPI Heavy-Duty Final Gear Set (2 of them)[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000424471&I=LXCLR3&P=K]HPI Engine Mount [/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAP2&P=7]Motor Saver Air Filter[/link] (Is this the right size?)
Im sure there is more that will come as I break it. [>:] Couple questions: I can't seem to find the recommended washers on Tower Hobbies for the diffs (HPI Z891) am I missing something? Also, what kind of exhaust and header combo should I get? Should I just port the stock header and get a new tuned pipe? All those parts look right? Anything else anyone recommends to get me going?
Ok, I think its time for some upgrades to my MT2....just wanted to make sure the parts I was lookin at were the right ones. First off, its basically a bone stock RTR MT2...so far here is the list...
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=0]O.S. CV-RX .18 Engine[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000424471&I=LXJYM2&P=K]HPI Heavy-Duty Final Gear Set (2 of them)[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000424471&I=LXCLR3&P=K]HPI Engine Mount [/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAP2&P=7]Motor Saver Air Filter[/link] (Is this the right size?)
Im sure there is more that will come as I break it. [>:] Couple questions: I can't seem to find the recommended washers on Tower Hobbies for the diffs (HPI Z891) am I missing something? Also, what kind of exhaust and header combo should I get? Should I just port the stock header and get a new tuned pipe? All those parts look right? Anything else anyone recommends to get me going?
10-01-2006 | 11:07 AM
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From: Antrim, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: Joebaby35
I have seen them both run and the MT2 18ss looks to be faster on the top end, the Helfire has a lot more bottom end power but lacks the top end the MT2 18SS has. Don't quote me on this I did not see them runn side by side in a drag race.
ORIGINAL: rc monkey
Could the mt2 18ss beat the hellfire? Not on a proper track just bashing in the street
Which would win a drag race?
Thanks
Could the mt2 18ss beat the hellfire? Not on a proper track just bashing in the street
Which would win a drag race?
Thanks
10-01-2006 | 02:29 PM
#7823
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From: Macon,
GA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: rc monkey
Ok thanks
ORIGINAL: Joebaby35
I have seen them both run and the MT2 18ss looks to be faster on the top end, the Helfire has a lot more bottom end power but lacks the top end the MT2 18SS has. Don't quote me on this I did not see them runn side by side in a drag race.
ORIGINAL: rc monkey
Could the mt2 18ss beat the hellfire? Not on a proper track just bashing in the street
Which would win a drag race?
Thanks
Could the mt2 18ss beat the hellfire? Not on a proper track just bashing in the street
Which would win a drag race?
Thanks
Being all the people I run with are like I as be run off road vehicles as that is what they are made for off road. As far as the .18SS and the Hellfire I have seen both run on the track and the 18SS could not come near the Hellfire unless it broke and that is all was a possibility with the RTR Hellfire. A lot has to do with who is driving and if the tuner knows what they are doing.
10-01-2006 | 04:29 PM
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From: Antrim, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Ok sorry i was just asking because my friend wants a hellfire and i like the look of the mt2 and i was wondering how they compared.
