Use the Post Reply button (not the fast reply). At the bottom under the text section you will see a line that says Click here to upload images and files! Click on the link and browse for the photos you want to attach. It shouldn't be a problem.

Hot Rod Todd - yes I did think about cutting into the firewall and think that would work. I just didn't want to take the structure out. You might want to consider putting in a balsa block or large triangle stock to tie the structure together around the cut. Bear in mind, I think you will still need a long cut in the cowling to allow it to spread around the engine. Another alternative would be to cut out the cowl section behind the engine and mount it separately, so the rest slides off easily.

Jpal101 - use the "Post Reply" button (rather than fast reply). At the bottom of the next window, below your message and next to "file" there's an upload button, then a browse attachment window. I don't know what the file size limits are, but I use a shareware Photo Resizer from www.showyourphotos.com that does a great job of compacting 600-700kb files down to 30-40 w/out losing much resolution. BTW - I did some internal strengthening which I can post if there's interest. Do you have a source for new/stronger LG that you like?

Thanks

OK... I have a stupid question. I really am at a loss on finding the center of the firewall in relation to the cowl. No problem on compensating for side thrust. comes out to almost 1/4 inch offset. My problem is the vertical c/l. I tried a plumb bob and string with the cowl on but that is bush league, and not very accurate. Any one have a dimension for the vertical dimension? Firewall is in stock position. I am thinking of cutting the cowl first (clearance for the valve covers) I am using a Hyde A mount, which should make things a little easier. I can thrash away for a while, but if I have a dimension to baseline the mount with, it would be MUCH eaiser.

Thanks,
CC

My sketch on p9 uses the same vertical engine CL that Eric recommended on p1; 2-19/32 from the bottom. Side offset is closer to 3/16 (5.375*sin2).

Hot Rod Todd - I forget the standard option on the OS120 is long extension or no extension. The latter I think will put your muffler exhaust outlet in the tank/battery compartment, and the muffler may actually interfere with the T-mount supplied with the kit. But I don't think you need to be that close; my Muffler sticks out about 1-1/2 inches. If you cut the long extension (2") down to about 1/2" I think the muffler will fit with a relatively small cut in the firewall. Let me know how it works out. I have a second Quest still in the box.

I only see one reply button, where is the "post reply button"

Just below the last reply in this discussion, is a blue bar with the PAGE selector in it (Page << <prev 1 2 3 etc). Just below that bar on the far left, it says POST REPLY. If you pick POST REPLY, you will see a new window to enter your reply, and it has the file upload option. That option is not available when replying in the FAST REPLY window. Also, when you upload, you will not see your pictures until you OK the reply and it gets added to the thread!

Here are some pics of the LG and my work so far. Let me know if you are interested in the LG

I think I am getting the hang of this, more

Looking good jap101 - where did you get the LG?

JPal,
Thanks for posting the pix!
I have a Quest II as well but haven't started on it.
What tank is that and how many ounces is it?
Thanks!
JLK

One of the guys in my club has some sort of connection with someone who manufactures them. I will try to contact him today and find out how to purchase them.

I used the stock tank that came with the kit

Looks like the LG is mounted backwards.

Thanks Sethhunter! I must be getting senile! I have been cursing this thing, and the dimensions were right here, on the first page... and to be honest, I never opened up your drawing. Now I can get to grinding some glass.
One question... Has anyone been tempted to use the round hinges supplies with the kit? I am suprised that such a nice kit would have those kind of hinges. (nothing wrong with CA hinges, just the round shape doesn't seem to have much area to grip) Or am I just paranoid about a hinge failure?

CC

Hey Barye

Actually I noticed that the LG might be mounted backwards also, but since I already drilled the holes and it makes no difference which way it mounts ( it not angled in either direction) I thought I would leave it. But, now that you noticed it I might change it.

Lets take a vote, change or not to change the LG

CC - So far I've installed the round hinges on the rudder. They seem to hold OK. I drilled a 1/16 hole down the center of the slot first for the CA to wick into. I don't have much experience with CA hinges. Tried to buy the Radio So. hinges, but shipping if you buy direct is rediculous. I didn't look for a reseller. I also considered hinge points, but wasn't sure about the structure inside. I plan to tape the gaps so I think it should be strong enough. Decided to toss the horns and use better hardware. BTW - Before you glue the tailwheel wire into the rudder or mount the bracket, you might want to sand the correct angle onto the plastic bracket; the rudder hinge line is swept but the wheel bracket is not angled to correct alignment.

I have used monokote or ultra to seal the gaps, and that in of its self is a hinge if done on both sides that is very strong. Using the correct color the mono can hardly be seen and helps to reduce the chance of flutter of the surface on those high speed on the deck inverted passes.

Good grief!! That OS 120 AX makes for an ugly installation.

I can't remember if I posted this parts picture or not of the Quest-2. Just in case here they are again.

Eric.

Speaking of parts.... Anyone figure out where F1 goes? It is a piece of lite ply approx 5/8 by 3 with a hole in one end. The assembly book makes no mention of F1, but it references a lot of things. I am sure the reference numbers are somewhere, just not in the manual. The Disk that came with the plane was AFU and unreadable, so I am assuming it may be there. By the way, just what is on the disk, anyway? Advertising? Building tips? A free trip to Bei Jing?
Thanks,
CC

The assembly instruction manual is on the disk in pdf format along with an old version of Acrobat Reader.
I printed the manual from the disk to avoid having to run back and forth to the computer screen. See photo on the following page:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_35...tm.htm#3550971

F1 is a support bracket for the throttle pushrod. I'm told it is a carry over from the original Quest and is not used on the Quest II.

"Good grief!! That OS 120 AX makes for an ugly installation. "

Perhaps, Rocketman. The 120 would certainly fit better fully inverted, which I was trying to avoid. BTW, someone posted on the glow thread that they mounted an OS120 inverted in an Excelleron (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4057423). It might be a better route if you don't like so much metal exposed...

Hi Guys,
I have been thinking about this model for sometime as a home for my YS 110. To be honest though I am not the best builder in the world due to some physical disabilities. From reading most of the posts it would appear that a Hyde mount needs to be installed and some strengthening modifications to the fusalage need to be performed. This could present somewhat of a challenge for me. Is there any one of you more experienced members out there willing to give me a hand with the mods? I think that I should be able to handle everything from that point on. Thanks....

Olstoney,
I bet Eric will step in but I too have a QII ready to assemble.
The Hyde mount should not be a problem.
If you order the one for the 1.10 from Central Hobbies it comes predrilled for the 1.10 placing the engine thrust washer at the correct spacing from the firewall.
I couldn't believe it!!!!!!
To mount the motor mount I plan to layout a "crosshair" on the firewall using Eric's measurements.
I will then lightly tack glue the mount to the firewall after I have the "crosshairs" centered in the mount's rear hole. After laying out the holes to attach the mount I will break the mount free from the firewall...
Remember just LIGHTLY tack glue the mount.
As far as reenforcing the landing gear Eric suggests an epoxy impregnated glass cloth "bandaid" over the gear plate.
Voila!!!!!
Should be easy!
Good luck!
JLK