I almost forgot
I do not use Thinned Epoxy
I use regular West Systems Laminating Epoxy
you only need one application
I have not tried to thin it It is pretty thin out of the can so you might want to try samples with both methods
then you only need to roll the K-36 PPG ,,Or sim, Primer on the first coat
brush the second coat ,sand both with 400-600 grit wet with a block and a couple drops of Dishwashing liquid ,,,, this helps with lubrication and keeps the sandpaper clean longer
then if it needs some touch up after the second sanding spot it
at this time the primer will shine like glass along with the bare spots of glass cloth
then you can spray a final coat of primer and repeat Or

spray a heavy Base coat of Paint then Block it wet with 400 grit till it`s thin you might go through if your blocking sanding ability needs work
this meathod will give you the lightest ,deepest looking results
Bryan

Bryan

My Quest has been Glassed and broken already. I have already started working on my third one, this one I have used some of Mikes ideas, I hope he doesnt mind and have had alot of pieces reinforced with composites. The cheeks, canopy bellypan and the top piece of the nose are all carbon fiber, I made all my own molds for all these. Most of the key fromers are laminated then routed by a friend. I have had some pieces laser cut, I found a company locally who can just take my drawings and cut them easily. I have found a great supply of balsa locally. I always use Bolly stuff as the factory is local to me, I just stop in there.

The only thing I need to get some advice on is where I need to ask some advice for is where to strengthen the wing, thats how I broke the last one, OOPS!!! Im sure if I ask really nicely Mike or Bryan might give ne some ideas.

Anway this is Mikes recording breaking thread

Troy

Not really, since Bryan and I are pretty much under the same roof now.

Of course I don't mind you using my ideas, that's why we're here! I don't claim to have invented them anyway, some I thought up, but most I got elsewhere, applied them, and changed the techniques to fit my own style.

Be more specific about the problem with the wings? Did you use spars of any kind?

-Mike

Hey Troy I`m glad you gotum flying
Now that you have that done ,,How about sending me a copy Of the cad files for the Quest you promissed me
Or did you send them to Mike Along with the Shinden files [X(]
I`s only been A YEAR AND A HALF or so <VBG>
May Be I`ll have Mike hold the Shinden Parts Hostage till I get them
Bryan

Muhahahahahahaha!!!! One wrong move and the cowling gets it!!!!!!

I have the wing files, but not the fuse.

-Mike

Bryan\Mike

Bryan I did send you u a copy of the drawings a while ago(by email). I have now changed heaps of the pieces but kept the exact same lines as the plans. I have been updating all the time and used more of mikes ideas lately from the VF3, not exactly the same just more for reinforcement and lightening holes. I will send you a new copy soon with some of the new pieces I have made.

I have the Shinden fuse in basic format but, I needed the cowl etc to see if I was close or way out in my drawings, there was no use in finishing it all and finding nothing fits. I would love to work with Mike on it. I believe he is now quite a CAD gun as well.

Mike can I send you a copy of the Quest wing files , I have them all done, even the profiles of the roots tips of the airfoils in compuoil and autocad, maybe you could suggest where, I might need to put the spars etc. I was about to well do the same sort of things that you did to the BM v2.2 wings and see how I went

Thanks

Troy

Mike,

I'm getting ready to sheet the nose of the fuse between te canopy and firewall. I am considering doing it with three piexes of 1./8" as opposed to stick sheeting like you did. Any thoughts on it before I do it?

I glued two sheets of 1/8" balsa together with CA, soaked one side with ammonia and water, and wrapped it around the outside of my ammonia bottle which had about the same radius of the top of the nose. Held it in place with rubber bands. Let it dry overnight on the bottle, and it worked great after I trimmed it to fit.

Jon

Thanks for the info Jon. I'll get that done tomorrow.

Yep....that's kinda cool! I think I'll try that.

-M

Yeah I did basically the same thing as Jon. I used Ambroid cement because it's water proof and sands easily (better than CA). I didn't even use ammonia, just warm water. I taped mine around an empty fuel bottle and let it sit overnight. It came out great. Since I'm planning on covering the fuse with Monokote, not fiberglass I didn't want to have all the lines from gluing strips in there.

John Pavlick

I am kind of split 50-50 on the sheet vs. strip planking. After done both I think the strip planking is stiffer and there is no sagging that you can get from the sheet wood. The glue joints make it a bit stronger. I can understand John's point about having glue joints showing under monokote.

I used 30 min epoxy and CA on my planes....

On my v3 build I did the sheet planking across the top from the mid stingers and strip from the fuse side up to the stringer. That allowed me to use slightly stiffer wood across the top. and It didn't sag.

the beauty of building your own is you can have it any way you want it : )

Hey Mike,

I've registered to have access to the CAA forum linked to your website. Forum says there are no threads, but the info satistics says there are 43 . I tried logging onto the V2 forum and I am prompted for a special password. I'm confused, is it just me?
I tried sending a message to the administrator but it kicked it back saying I referenced an invalid forum.

Gene

I really don't think strip planking would buy much since we are using 1/8" unless you are really heavy handed starting your plane. I used three pieces of 1/8" to do the front on this one.

Anyway, the more I work on it the more it looks like a plane...amazing how that works.

Next on my agenda is to build a fixture to drill the engine mount holes so the mount aligns with the reinforcment on the back of the firewall.

NICE PETE !!!!!

Hey that fuse look familiar LOL : )

glad to see you got yer bad boy going strong, really glad I was able to kick start the project for you. and thanks for the vac pump. maybe sometime I'll have the time to use it, I am fiber-glassing a v3 tonight.

I start my plane by holding the landing gear strut.

cheers mate!

dean

Ahh, you YS guys! I start my plane by gently pushing the brop "backwards" while my caller hangs onto it. <LOL> I sheeted the nose section with flat 1/8" sheets too. Just get it wet with warm water, wrap around an empty fuel jug overnight then trim the angles and glue in place. Should hold up to my OS 160.

John Pavlick

for all my OS friends, I've made a OS version of my Dragon. I am cutting a couple as we speak....

here is my flat cutter file, I'll have some examples soon....

You want one John, just ask bro !!!!!

And the "real one" is freakin gorgeous.........

-Mike

Well, YEAH I want one!!! Awesome dude! I need some other stuff too. I'll send you an Email. I have more build pic's to upload but I'm REAL busy with work now. Maybe I'll get caught up this weekend.

John Pavlick

John,

did I hear that you where making another D3 road trip this season, maybe andersonville ??

He needs to just move down here and get it over with

-Mike

Wow, that airplane and graphic look eerily familiar

Arch

LOL I'll bet!

-Mike

sick sick sick people in this tread!!


gary

MUHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA!!!!!!

-M