Lets build a tank!!! The tamiya JS-2
#76
I have KZ1 metal tracks from MATO on mine. I found they added the weight the tank needs. The IS2 is so long and has such wide tracks it has very little ground pressure. As a result the tank would spin the tracks and not move on slight hills.
Since you have one now I'll bring mine back to Danville so you have a battle buddy.
Since you have one now I'll bring mine back to Danville so you have a battle buddy.
#79
#81
#83
I'm not sure why (beside scale-like draping) anyone would opt for metal tracks on anything above the Pz III/IV. I have the original tracks on my Tiger I from 12 years ago and the only thing that's worn on the sprocket is the paint off the teeth. Keep it stock weightt and don't run your tank on concrete and it'll be fine for a long time.
The ABS roadwheels aren't going to wear, and adding metal to muzzle brake is just going to put more strain on elevation. Truthfully, I wish they never gave to pressure and kept all barrels styrene. Yes it takes some extra care to assemble and alleviate the seam, but the paint sticks better and there would be no need to alter the elevation arm. Again, the original Tiger, styrene barrel, no need to jam the clutch or add a metal arm. It worked flawlessly for all these years.
On my JS-2, I needed to make a metal arm, seal the clutches and eventually add micro switch stops all because of the aluminum barrel (which is sheding paint). Same with the Panther and IV. But my M4 and Tiger, no issue whatsoever.
The ABS roadwheels aren't going to wear, and adding metal to muzzle brake is just going to put more strain on elevation. Truthfully, I wish they never gave to pressure and kept all barrels styrene. Yes it takes some extra care to assemble and alleviate the seam, but the paint sticks better and there would be no need to alter the elevation arm. Again, the original Tiger, styrene barrel, no need to jam the clutch or add a metal arm. It worked flawlessly for all these years.
On my JS-2, I needed to make a metal arm, seal the clutches and eventually add micro switch stops all because of the aluminum barrel (which is sheding paint). Same with the Panther and IV. But my M4 and Tiger, no issue whatsoever.
#84

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: littlestown, PA
Have you battled with it at Brets? Normally I would agree about tracks, but once installed I never again had a traction issue with the IS. Danville has a very well groomed surface and stock tracks work ok there. It was once the terrain gets loose debris.
#85
Ditto ausf!!!! My Tamiya Tiger I is at least 13 or 14 years old. I bought it either one or two years after it was released in 2000. Still has the nylon tracks and original gearboxes. No metal gun barrel for the main gun. The only mod I made was to replace the elevation clutch gear with a solid “Blue” gear. No metal elevation arm. It still runs great, knock on wood, and only wears metal tracks for display. As ausf said, the nylon tracks will last as long as you run them on soft surfaces. Pavement and concrete will wear the ice cleats off and leave a fuzzy texture. Yes, I ran mine on pavement and paid the price, but I have a new set waiting in the parts depot. Love this tank as build and runner.
#86
For anyone wanting the DKLM JS tracks, try this link to the ETO sight:
http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...oductID=DK-001
$110.00 per complete set, all new and shipped from ETO by Daryl in MD. I've got a set on my JS and they are quite grand.
http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...oductID=DK-001
$110.00 per complete set, all new and shipped from ETO by Daryl in MD. I've got a set on my JS and they are quite grand.
#87
Why do you get better traction with metal tracks? Is it a different link pattern or more ground pressure?
#88
Will the DKLM tracks work with the KV-1 Heng Long?
#89
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Quakertown PA
I have KZ1 metal tracks from MATO on mine. I found they added the weight the tank needs. The IS2 is so long and has such wide tracks it has very little ground pressure. As a result the tank would spin the tracks and not move on slight hills.
Since you have one now I'll bring mine back to Danville so you have a battle buddy.
Since you have one now I'll bring mine back to Danville so you have a battle buddy.
Sounds good. I didn't buy the metal tracks, but I can see where it would be a good option. I'll give it at least one time with the plastic and if it just doesn't work out like I hope then i'll buy a set of the metal ones.
#91
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Quakertown PA
I think it looks pretty complete. besides adding extra stuff. Everything on it is pretty solid. The only thing that i did upgrade was the bushings to bearings. it was like a $20 upgrade. but that was it. everything on mine is completely stock. It runs good. I'll see about posting up another video of it with some close ups so you can see. just keep in mind I don't plan to tear it down to paint for about week. i still want to bask in it's glory before i do. But i'll see what i can throw together.
#93
I don't know about HL KV but they work with Tamiya KV it seems. If you want, order a set and try them. If they don't work you can return them to Daryl for a refund of the track cost.
#94
I think the only issues on stock IS-2 is the weight itself against the suspension (torsion bar? or stick? anyway)
she will bouncing a lot when driving (light weight and hard suspension) compare with other Tamiya tank,
I think it cannot solve with stock parts. all you can do is either add the weight or adjust the (torsion bar/stick).
The metal track is mainly used for field run, not those well prepared battle ground.
I mean with small pebbles, rough soil, mud, it will give positive helps on driving.
Saw few time in previous game, Tamiya KT, Tiger I broken plastic track couple time in a battle.
I can say metal track is not a must, but it will help when you have field run.
Have a nice day!
she will bouncing a lot when driving (light weight and hard suspension) compare with other Tamiya tank,
I think it cannot solve with stock parts. all you can do is either add the weight or adjust the (torsion bar/stick).
The metal track is mainly used for field run, not those well prepared battle ground.
I mean with small pebbles, rough soil, mud, it will give positive helps on driving.
Saw few time in previous game, Tamiya KT, Tiger I broken plastic track couple time in a battle.
I can say metal track is not a must, but it will help when you have field run.
Have a nice day!
#95
My experience with the different tracks so far is that the metal tracks have greater performance on rough terrain. They gave my Pershing the weight it needed to gain traction over things like grass. It's not so much of an issue now that I have the other metal upgrades (the thing weighs over 10lbs), but when it was fully stock it would get stuck on grass easily because the grass would just lift it off the ground.
They even help the tank drive in a more realistic manner. The tank is much easier to control at low speeds, and doesn't jerk around as much when trying to turn. Even with the RX18.
The one place I found that the plastic tracks perform better (for me anyway) is in the snow. The lighter weight helps keep the tank on top of the snow. Plus snow doesn't stick to the plastic, and packed into the suspension as much.
Edit: Well the Tamiya probably has enough weight on its own though.
They even help the tank drive in a more realistic manner. The tank is much easier to control at low speeds, and doesn't jerk around as much when trying to turn. Even with the RX18.
The one place I found that the plastic tracks perform better (for me anyway) is in the snow. The lighter weight helps keep the tank on top of the snow. Plus snow doesn't stick to the plastic, and packed into the suspension as much.
Edit: Well the Tamiya probably has enough weight on its own though.
Last edited by Roboticus_Prime; 04-02-2015 at 12:19 PM.
#96
Thanks Robert. I will try a set.
#97
I think it looks pretty complete. besides adding extra stuff. Everything on it is pretty solid. The only thing that i did upgrade was the bushings to bearings. it was like a $20 upgrade. but that was it. everything on mine is completely stock. It runs good. I'll see about posting up another video of it with some close ups so you can see. just keep in mind I don't plan to tear it down to paint for about week. i still want to bask in it's glory before i do. But i'll see what i can throw together.
#98
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Quakertown PA
awesome. They are pretty darn quick like that. One thing that won't matter until the end. I missed this until after i finished and by then I didn't care to much. The side steps/ railings. You should have a metal set in there. It comes in the the turret mechanism box. I saw them and thought that they were servo adjusters. You have the plastic ones on the sprus. After messing up once or twice because I went past the instructions I wasn't about to make the same mistake. They are part MC 14. I might cahnge over to those before I paint. Anyway congrats on the new tank. can't wait to see it come together.
Bill
Bill
#99
awesome. They are pretty darn quick like that. One thing that won't matter until the end. I missed this until after i finished and by then I didn't care to much. The side steps/ railings. You should have a metal set in there. It comes in the the turret mechanism box. I saw them and thought that they were servo adjusters. You have the plastic ones on the sprus. After messing up once or twice because I went past the instructions I wasn't about to make the same mistake. They are part MC 14. I might cahnge over to those before I paint. Anyway congrats on the new tank. can't wait to see it come together.
Bill
Bill
#100
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Quakertown PA
That is actually a step onnce you get the lower chassis built. It covers all the wiring of the channels. Aslo of not there is a bit in there that tells you to set the receiver. You don't need to do this since you are using the one that it came with. Also something to note that i didn't realize until Herman pointed it out. The system has a hand brake built into it. Once you get the lower chassis together and the main electronics put in and wired up and you go to test the drive train. You have to put the throttle trim all the way down and then give the tank full reverse for about a second. This will disengage the handbrake. Then just move the throttle trim to the center and drive off as normal.
See as how you have to build the speaker box i would just wait until you get to the step to try out all the electronics. it will be more rewarding when you can hear them and then actually see when you throw it in the tank. Also on the elecronics. Just place the DMD and TK where they tell you. The tank is to shallow to stack them, and you have to put the TK pretty far forward. I put mine to right before the idler adjust screw. That way I could still get to it. IT gets tight in there pretty quick once the wires start to pile up. But it comes with zip ties and you can always buy more if needed. Enjoy
See as how you have to build the speaker box i would just wait until you get to the step to try out all the electronics. it will be more rewarding when you can hear them and then actually see when you throw it in the tank. Also on the elecronics. Just place the DMD and TK where they tell you. The tank is to shallow to stack them, and you have to put the TK pretty far forward. I put mine to right before the idler adjust screw. That way I could still get to it. IT gets tight in there pretty quick once the wires start to pile up. But it comes with zip ties and you can always buy more if needed. Enjoy


