Its agreat truggy, i love it.

I do hate the stock battery box and i converted to the hyper 8.5 battery box.
The brakes are very good but i put mine in my hyper 8 and put a set of these in -

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4499

They work a treat.

Echelon - I got rid of the stock shocks and put a set of the HongNor ( ofna ) 16mm Big Bore shocks with blue springs ( hard ), 45wgt oil all round and the 1.4 mm hole pistons.


I landed nose heavy off a jump last weekend and snapped off the front bumper ( not happy bout that ) I must of just got it on the right angle to do so as i never thought this could happen....lol Quite a few people heard it snap too .......lol

hi i have a question too, i still have the standard flywheel but with the standard one i cant use a bump start because it's to small do you guys know a bigger one that will fit and start with a bumpstart?[&:]

I am using the standard flywheel on my OS Vspec with no issue with the bump box starting it.

@ RedSteal92,

Is yours the RTR or Pro? If it is the RTR then the engine mounts are raised to allow for the pullstart, but the Pro are dropped (i think) for a starter box.

Scott

Agreed, but since this is the Hyper ST PRO thread and not the ST RTR thread I assumed he had the PRO

yeah it is a pro (as you can see in the pics above)

....like it matters

hey im neally finish building my hyper st pro and just wondering what parts should i look out for whats the most common part breaking on these, and i must say this truggy is nice cant wait to get it running.

Watch out for the fuel tank posts (which crack easily), king pins (tend to back out), and potentially leaky diffs (easily fixable with Kyosho Diff Gaskets). Other then that run it and have a blast. Be sure to post pics. I remember the days when it was brand spanking new.

The main thing to watch out for based on my experience would be the front knuckles.. Make ONE THOUSAND PERCENT sure your steering linkage and then radio settings are PERFECT.. And don't forget to threadlock the screws.. MANY people here in Germany anyway have had problems with those screws into the knuckles stripping out, or just outright breaking them..

yep ive thread locked every where ive built buggies and truggy before well when i find my camera cord ill post pics of while its still shiny im up to putting all the throttle/brake linkages on.

Justin

just want to clarify that the kyosho diff gaskets are the ones to use. i've been using the ofna/jammin ones with inconsistent results and blown gears.

J-blaze, you took my advise and tried the Kyosho ones I take it. Have they worked out for you?

not yet, i ordered 2 sets though. i was using the ofna/jammin ones which are about 1mm too big/ they work for a while but i'm going through gears in the diffs like crazy, no leaks tho. i check mesh, fill to the right spot, check mesh again, used longer screws even. every gallon or so one of my diffs blows one of the large internal gears, just flat. this last weekend it was the rear during qualifying then the center went at the start of the main. i'm gonna redo all 3 for this weekend to test, then rcpro race in 3 weeks. woohoo. i'm gonna do some lightening this time on the st, cf shock towers, turnbuckle chassis braces, hyper 7 front upper mount. we'll see how it goes.

Sorry to hear that. Your blowing diffs to quickly. If you blew the center also, the kyosho gasket won't help for that one. Wierd. This has been my first season on my Hyper. Haven't blown any diffs yet. And I have been hard on my hyper.

I'm currently using a kyosho 34mm flywheel. I know that you can use the one from the Hyper 7 buggy. It depends on the starter box too. I was using a dynamite starter box before I went to the ofna truggy starter box. Now I have no issues starting anything. You can also use a flywheel from a Savage X too and its way cheaper! When using the kyosho or the savage X flywheel I was able to start the truck with my old starter box. Hope this helps.

yeehaw!! i finished my hyper st lightening and it is crazy. i got some cf hyper 7 shock towers on ebay for like $30 and then used hyper 7 chassis races and front upper mount assembly. i took out the shock towers, braces and center brace (also lowered center diff for better mesh). i haven't weighed it yet but performance wise it ran like a deer on crack today. i burned up a servo but i'm going back out today.

J_blaze,

We need pics.

i'll post pics tomorrow, with the hyper and a trophy nah, just a club race. the changes make this go 3pt look like one of the old ninjas. i also am going to gear up another tooth on the clutchbell cause 13/46 is too much at the bottom, i'll try 14/46 see how it goes.

If you could include parts number that would be great.

here's the hyper diet... it ran great. flew great and handled like a jackrabbit. was probably the fastest truggy today except for my wheel hub pin falling out mid main and fuel line pinch at the start, wouldn't start. one chassis brace screw got loose after the 2nd qual but thats the only issues.

I was actually thinking about selling my Hyper, cuz I so rarely get the chance to run it.. But today it was just shredding.. With full 1/2 offset it just runs so nice.. So I'm keeping it for now..

http://video.google.de/videoplay?doc...47987497&hl=de

Ghost Rider oh I mean J_blaze , did you have to make any mods to the towers or anything.

Any other motor-mounts fit the Hyper ST Pro?? Or, how can I fix this??

herrsavage, that 1 looks like it can be saved. there is 3 ways in which i can see. (1) it looks like there is enough metal sticking out to get a grip with some plies but before you go trying straight away, you will need to heat it up. over the gas cooker will do fine. hold in in the heat for about 30 sec and give it a gentle turn. if it still doesn't want to turn, heat it again and this time while it is hot, grab a tooth pick and run it under water. hold the tooth pick on edge and let a single drop of water drop onto the broken screw.place two drops on the screw quickly then try with the pliers again..........hopefully it should be free. (2) drill a small hole in the center and use a thread extractor.(easyout) (3) if you have access to a welder you can tac weld a piece of scrap metal to the end of the screw. the heat from the tac should free any internal binding and should screw straight out. hope this helps. goodluck!