CMP Hellcat
#426

My Feedback: (15)
I just got off the phone with Ironbay Models to order their fuel regulator-Man!! What a nice bunch of people!!He (Richard I think was his name) talked me all the way thru my problem so hopefully I will be able to fire up my engine and be up in the air soon !!! (if it warms up alot!! 
Thanks eveyone!!!
John

Thanks eveyone!!!
John
#428
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From: Queens,
NY
hey all, I have a iron bay regulator if anyone wants it... $25.00 + shipping and its brand new. only had fuel in it once.... I bought it for my saito 150,, but never ended up useing it.... my 150 had a bad rear bearing that caused it to overheat, when I got the motor back,,, it ran fine w/o the regulator.... so I can't honestly say if they work or don't.... But I dont see myself using it... I also have a perry p-30 pump if anyone's interested...If anyone's interested just PM me,, so as not to mess up this thread. best of luck with the build
#429

My Feedback: (15)
I'll take the regulator please. Let me know where to send you the funds and all that good stuff.
I'm leaving work right now but email me at [email protected]
and I'll give you a shout tomorrow.
Thanks!! John
I'm leaving work right now but email me at [email protected]
and I'll give you a shout tomorrow.
Thanks!! John
#432
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From: , MD
I was thinking about purchasing from raidentech,but ive been hearing bad things about there service,so i dont know who to buy from now.If i purchase one,id like it to be shipped promptly and ive read posts that people have been waiting a long time for there planes.
#433
When ordering from Raidentech, I always make sure it's in stock before buying. I've bought 8 planes from them without any shipping issues. In fact, I placed online order on 2 more this tuesday and got fedex email telling me the birds got shipped out yesterday. It's true if they don't have it in stock, you can wait for months for the planes to arrive by ship from china. So, if it's out of stock don't order one.
#434
Senior Member
I agree with kmtranmd. I bought an airsoft tank and got it within two weeks, and had a confirmation from fedex. Make sure they have it before you buy it 
-Mike

-Mike
#435

My Feedback: (28)
I Just ordered the Hellcat and the big P-40 from AK. I ordered Sunday A.m. and had the plane on Wednesday.
Both Genuine CMP and are beautiful. The pictures don't do these planes justice (especially the P-40).
Anyway, I found one thing odd about my Hellcat. The firewall is not glued to the fuse. There is bulkheads and trays already mounted in such a way that you can't remove the firewall to glue it. I will put the epoxy or resin through the hole in the fuse that the tank sticks out of. I bit of a pain but not impossible. Anyone else have this happen? It may be mentioned in the instructions but I have not opened them yet. Overall very high quality throughout.
Dom
Both Genuine CMP and are beautiful. The pictures don't do these planes justice (especially the P-40).
Anyway, I found one thing odd about my Hellcat. The firewall is not glued to the fuse. There is bulkheads and trays already mounted in such a way that you can't remove the firewall to glue it. I will put the epoxy or resin through the hole in the fuse that the tank sticks out of. I bit of a pain but not impossible. Anyone else have this happen? It may be mentioned in the instructions but I have not opened them yet. Overall very high quality throughout.
Dom
#436

My Feedback: (19)
PeteJoMan,
Received your PM. You're Da Man! Thank you.
Received your PM. You're Da Man! Thank you.
ORIGINAL: oriole
Anybody? I've tried GSP, Raidentech and AKModels with no luck. Kits are plentiful, but good luck trying to get parts.
Anybody? I've tried GSP, Raidentech and AKModels with no luck. Kits are plentiful, but good luck trying to get parts.
ORIGINAL: oriole
Does anybody have an extra "Lucky" decal, that they can sell to me? This is the Royal Flush hand Decal that is on the cowl. The kit comes with two, but I only need one.
Thank you,
Oriole
Does anybody have an extra "Lucky" decal, that they can sell to me? This is the Royal Flush hand Decal that is on the cowl. The kit comes with two, but I only need one.
Thank you,
Oriole
#438

My Feedback: (15)
Hey just bought a Hellcat wantabee on EBay , I know I am taking my chances but i am only hopeing for complete parts , no damage and reasonable delivery .
I won a bid for $68 and wait until you hear this lol $55 for shipping =$123 .
Ok so if all is ok , I will reinforce it , upgrade hardware , add good retarcts ect ect .
But I figured , no damage , all the parts (if they deliver ) it was worth a try .I used pay pal so will file if they dont deliver .
I will keep you posted .
I do have the real CMP73" P40 but I paid $279 walking in the store !!!
I won a bid for $68 and wait until you hear this lol $55 for shipping =$123 .
Ok so if all is ok , I will reinforce it , upgrade hardware , add good retarcts ect ect .
But I figured , no damage , all the parts (if they deliver ) it was worth a try .I used pay pal so will file if they dont deliver .
I will keep you posted .
I do have the real CMP73" P40 but I paid $279 walking in the store !!!
#439

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From: Moreno Valley,
CA
LDM,
Sometimes, even the R/C Gods smile upon ME! Less than 30 minutes from me is a husband and wife business called Glow R/C that has recently started importing the ENTIRE CMP line. With the 20 percent discount recently offered to RCU members (in effect until 31 Dec), I picked up the 140 size P-40 for 191 bucks and the FW-190 for 176 bucks. I am tempted to go back down this coming weekend to pick up a "coupla more" CMP birds - especially another Zero of which I am HIGHLY impressed with the one I have. As usual, the covering on the P-40 wings has already started wrinkling due to the 85 degree heat wave we have been having here in SoCal. The P-40 is exactly as you and others have described it - OUTSTANDING! I do want to "gently" remove the US ARMY and STARS and go with the traditional AVG Chinese Flying Tiger marking. Oddly enough, I layed some of the Chinese roundels (from a TF Gold Edition P-40) directly over the stars and its a perfect match. I think if I can remove the water slide decals, I will airbrush some tan and go with the AVG look...
The FW-190 is also VERY nice - may not be exact scale to the purist, but it sure looks great the way it comes. I may leave it as is and just follow the "scant" instructions and assemble as is. I got to look at the CMP Corsair and it is a dead on match to the KMP Corsair I currently have. All in all, I think I did very well driving down and picking up the two ARFs I did without having to pay shipping AND receiving 20 percent off their already low prices....
randy
Sometimes, even the R/C Gods smile upon ME! Less than 30 minutes from me is a husband and wife business called Glow R/C that has recently started importing the ENTIRE CMP line. With the 20 percent discount recently offered to RCU members (in effect until 31 Dec), I picked up the 140 size P-40 for 191 bucks and the FW-190 for 176 bucks. I am tempted to go back down this coming weekend to pick up a "coupla more" CMP birds - especially another Zero of which I am HIGHLY impressed with the one I have. As usual, the covering on the P-40 wings has already started wrinkling due to the 85 degree heat wave we have been having here in SoCal. The P-40 is exactly as you and others have described it - OUTSTANDING! I do want to "gently" remove the US ARMY and STARS and go with the traditional AVG Chinese Flying Tiger marking. Oddly enough, I layed some of the Chinese roundels (from a TF Gold Edition P-40) directly over the stars and its a perfect match. I think if I can remove the water slide decals, I will airbrush some tan and go with the AVG look...
The FW-190 is also VERY nice - may not be exact scale to the purist, but it sure looks great the way it comes. I may leave it as is and just follow the "scant" instructions and assemble as is. I got to look at the CMP Corsair and it is a dead on match to the KMP Corsair I currently have. All in all, I think I did very well driving down and picking up the two ARFs I did without having to pay shipping AND receiving 20 percent off their already low prices....
randy
#440

My Feedback: (15)
Bossman , sounds great , I get to Cal on business about 4 times a year , where is glow RC ??
2) I often wondered about Konder models vs CMP , because Andrew is such a nice guy I cant get anyone on RCU to do a comparison . Konder products appear to be nice but $300 nicer then CMP ??? I just dont know about that .
The 73" p40 is a beauty you will love it , I now have my engine saito 180 , pilot -Bluebox (Ben) P40 ace , retracts-century jet , all I need is the tail wheel retract . I am going to put an interior in the plane , flaps and a sliding canopy .
Hey wish me luck with my hellcat wanabee , for $123 I hope its worth the box
cost lol .
Happy holidays and a great new year to all !!!!
2) I often wondered about Konder models vs CMP , because Andrew is such a nice guy I cant get anyone on RCU to do a comparison . Konder products appear to be nice but $300 nicer then CMP ??? I just dont know about that .
The 73" p40 is a beauty you will love it , I now have my engine saito 180 , pilot -Bluebox (Ben) P40 ace , retracts-century jet , all I need is the tail wheel retract . I am going to put an interior in the plane , flaps and a sliding canopy .
Hey wish me luck with my hellcat wanabee , for $123 I hope its worth the box
cost lol .Happy holidays and a great new year to all !!!!
#441

My Feedback: (15)
I got a question for you that used Century Jet retracts in this hellcat:
I need to know how you made your mount for the CJ's. I cut the half ribs out (from the spar to the leading edge) to make a stronger setup that was in there-it was very thin lite-ply. So now I have a pattarn to make some new ribs but need to know what thickness ply you used for the new ribs?Also, did you make some sort of box out of hardwood or something(I have heard some people here using maple for the rails)) to set the retracts in? How did you tie the hardwood into the ribs? Got any pictures that would show a dummy like me LOL ?
Next, did you do anything to the leading edge of the wing where you tied the retracts into the ribs?
I'm at the point where I am ready to start installing the retracts and I noticed the fiberglass bellypan doesnt come close to matching the wing contour on one side - definately a defect- one side curves out to the correct angle toward the firewall but the bad side of the pan is just pretty much straight and doesnt curve any. I could mash it down real hard against the wing when I got ready to glue it but it still would have a pretty big gap so I dont want to do that.
Thanks in advance for your replies!!!
Signed: Bumfuzzled in Birmingham
LOL
John
I need to know how you made your mount for the CJ's. I cut the half ribs out (from the spar to the leading edge) to make a stronger setup that was in there-it was very thin lite-ply. So now I have a pattarn to make some new ribs but need to know what thickness ply you used for the new ribs?Also, did you make some sort of box out of hardwood or something(I have heard some people here using maple for the rails)) to set the retracts in? How did you tie the hardwood into the ribs? Got any pictures that would show a dummy like me LOL ?
Next, did you do anything to the leading edge of the wing where you tied the retracts into the ribs?
I'm at the point where I am ready to start installing the retracts and I noticed the fiberglass bellypan doesnt come close to matching the wing contour on one side - definately a defect- one side curves out to the correct angle toward the firewall but the bad side of the pan is just pretty much straight and doesnt curve any. I could mash it down real hard against the wing when I got ready to glue it but it still would have a pretty big gap so I dont want to do that.
Thanks in advance for your replies!!!
Signed: Bumfuzzled in Birmingham
LOLJohn
#445

My Feedback: (15)
I do mine all the same .
1)Reinforce all internal visable areas with fiberglass & expozy
2)add multiple ply rails to get the retracts sitting flush on the wing with the proper toe in
3)use a dremil tool to burr out the new rails so they fit the CJ retracts
4)coat new custom rails with expozy before mounting the retracts back in .
1)Reinforce all internal visable areas with fiberglass & expozy
2)add multiple ply rails to get the retracts sitting flush on the wing with the proper toe in
3)use a dremil tool to burr out the new rails so they fit the CJ retracts
4)coat new custom rails with expozy before mounting the retracts back in .
#446

My Feedback: (15)
LDM, what thickness plywood did you use to re-inforce your ribs? I will be making new half ribs(from the spar forward to the leading edge) so that the new ribs will be the main box. Then after that, did you also make a rail (one per side of retract) to bolt or screw the retract to? What did you use for the new rail, Plywood or hardwood? What thickness was your rails?
I thank you!!
John
I thank you!!
John
#447

My Feedback: (15)
john 1)----- 1/8 inch plywood for ribs
2)I use 3/8 by 1/4 inch hardwood rails one by one I add them in and expoxy each one in forming a stack .(both sides ) yes it will be two big for the gear to fit in , you add them in the best possible position and then sand back a gap making sure you have enought rail to screw in the retracts
3)after they are dry , I sit the retracts in them to see the places of contact .Then you gradually remove the contacts areas with a dremil tool sander . Do this gradually so you do not remove too much wood .
4)when the sanding is completed I coat the rails with one more coating of expozy
Remember I start with a good foundation , fiberglass the everything visable and in reach of the retract bay area , this will add strength to you foundation
5)Test the gear to make sure they dont bind before you screw them in , also I prefer toe in so I make sure the have it when adding the rails and sanding
2)I use 3/8 by 1/4 inch hardwood rails one by one I add them in and expoxy each one in forming a stack .(both sides ) yes it will be two big for the gear to fit in , you add them in the best possible position and then sand back a gap making sure you have enought rail to screw in the retracts
3)after they are dry , I sit the retracts in them to see the places of contact .Then you gradually remove the contacts areas with a dremil tool sander . Do this gradually so you do not remove too much wood .
4)when the sanding is completed I coat the rails with one more coating of expozy
Remember I start with a good foundation , fiberglass the everything visable and in reach of the retract bay area , this will add strength to you foundation
5)Test the gear to make sure they dont bind before you screw them in , also I prefer toe in so I make sure the have it when adding the rails and sanding
#448

My Feedback: (17)
Done! Mostly. Still have some details to wrap up, but here she is....
might get a maiden Sunday but still have to clearcoat paint..... and weather hasn't exactally been cooperating when it comes to painting conditions. Magnum 120 for power, Hitec servos all around. Still need to scare up a pilot.
One question, how much does the CG move with the gear up? Haven't had a chance to balance it with the gear retracted (nor set up retract rates!) but it's comfortably in the FWD end of the CG range now.
Andy
might get a maiden Sunday but still have to clearcoat paint..... and weather hasn't exactally been cooperating when it comes to painting conditions. Magnum 120 for power, Hitec servos all around. Still need to scare up a pilot.
One question, how much does the CG move with the gear up? Haven't had a chance to balance it with the gear retracted (nor set up retract rates!) but it's comfortably in the FWD end of the CG range now.
Andy
#449

My Feedback: (24)
ORIGINAL: a65l
One question, how much does the CG move with the gear up? Haven't had a chance to balance it with the gear retracted (nor set up retract rates!) but it's comfortably in the FWD end of the CG range now.
One question, how much does the CG move with the gear up? Haven't had a chance to balance it with the gear retracted (nor set up retract rates!) but it's comfortably in the FWD end of the CG range now.


