Hello,

Do you guys use powerboxes, or do you connect all servo'd directly to the receiver?

Regards,

Eric Schumacher

I've never had to use a powerbox or anything similar when using 10-11 servos provided your using a decent size rx battery. If your worried about it, you could use a matchbox on the flap servos and plug a separate battery into that, but it shouldnt be needed.

Steve, looking at your pull-pull set up I would think it would help if your made the servo horn match the 1 O'clock 5 O'clock configuration that you have in the tail. It should give you less binding as the servo moves through the travel.

For those interested in a Dave Platt spinner, all I did was give Dave a call on the phone using the number posted on his website. He sent me a spinner right out. Be prepared to do some work making a special spinner nut and a spacer for the backplate which has a hole that is almost 1/2" in diameter.

Hi HR Todd

Thanks for your input.

This control system could geometrically be confusing. But if you look at the configuration you'll see its very secure and has no binding problems. The servo simply rocks an arm connected directly in front of it via the control rods with the loads pushing/pulling on the center of the rods.

The position of the screws on the elevator control arm are only to allow clearance from the Rudder post. The straight line of the control rods to the elevator linkage have nothing to cause binding or slop. The travel of the servo is not a concern, it has more than I need and can be adjusted by the many features on todays modern radios.

Think of the CMP factory elevator connection, and it may work perfectly, but imagine the angles involved there if you apply your thought. The elevator connections are actually pushing outward. Assumed equally.

This has worked for my many models in the past without fail. It may not be the best way, but its been reliable and I like the look of hidden scale like control surfaces where applicable.

Steve

.

Finally got the retracts today... Here is the setup thus far. I will finish this off tomorrow morning. I plan on taking this out to the field this this weekend come hell or high water!!

my retracts turned up today as well and the servos so its all go! now some advice here too..... when you cut out the holes for the servos and for the wheel wells leave them slightly undersize, this means when you go to insert the servo tray the covering will be held under the cover and look way better than a cut line, do the same with the wheel wells

Hi All

Haven't worked on it for a few days till last night.

Pic of the elevator rod exits patched. Ground down with dremel, then 1/16" balsa backing inside fuse with foam layer glued and sanded flush, then 3/4oz. glass epoxy finish layer sanded to finish.



Steve

Yeah, that only works when you've engineered it through the test phase to completion and are working on the final product when it comes to the retracts. Some I see have completely removed this area to update the retracts. Sierra gear drop right in I’m told, Shindin Machine gear don't. So you do what you have to and deal with the view as you go so since I’m still in the test phase hoping to be done soon to fly my ARF, we're going to just get the job done well to my standards for this ARF... As for the servo trays.. That I hope would be basic knowledge if you want it to look smooth and color blend but then that’s what PAINT is for.. who are we trying to impress... ourselves...or others, do we want to fly this thing or put more effort into it.. I applaud those who take all the extra time to add the details to these ARFs because some it looks good and I would do this if it were a kit but I feel we're loosing site to the fact that these are ARFs. Putting all the extra work into these just seems beyond the point of me buying Arf kit. I always thought that Arfs were designed to ease and speed up the process of getting to the field and enjoying the plane not to care if I slammed it into the ground because I can just go out and buy another one and be up within the next few days.

This is only my opinion and doesn't reflect the views and opinions of the others on the forum.

ine will be ARF, Serria do fit with some mods, that is removing about 1mm of width from the rails and cutting out some balsa further down, my post about the covering above is because I DID NOT DO IT lol and are anoyed with myself! hopefulle it will save others from the same trap

Ram,
You're right about the point of an ARF being to save time. I don't have the time or patience to glue all those sticks together but I do love the detailing part of the finish. The stock 109 is a blank canvas to me and with just a little effort and small amount of time, viola!...a masterpiece! You may be surprised at how little effort it takes and you can do as much or as little as you like. It may be a little vain but I like the admiration my duded up ARFs get at the field. Also, there are only two kinds of flyable RC aircraft...those that have crashed and those that will crash...the clock ticks on 'em all...just runs out sooner on some!

I enjoy building kits and have done so for years thus the best admiration comes from knowing that you engineered your kit and all the glory is yours alone. I think the best canvas comes with plans, not an instruction booklet. I think the only problem I have is kits are dying out because people don't want to do the work but here we see so many people doing all this extra work to these ARFs with such skill. But thats another forum... Once again, I just want to finally see someone fly one of these and if there are any changes.. this information would be more beneficial than any other... And you forgot about the third kind...the hanger qweens that never get flown because people are scared to fly them because of the detail put into their kits or ARFs. I should know.. I have a couple[]

But once again, this is just my opinion. However, I do look forward to seeing all the scaled up planes flown and hearing their reports.

Ramstein, would it be possible for you to take another picture of your retracts with the gear down and from the side ? I'm curious as to where the wheels are in relation to the leading edge .

thanks Dick

Here are a few pics of the early stages. Working the forward rake now, trying not to do too much dammage to the retract mounts. Looks like I may have to send them to Shindin to have it added[&o]. These gear are ok but I wish I'd bought the Sierra gear. One other thing I changed were the air brakes. . We'll see what happens

If you have the time and skill and desire to build scale , I have much respect for you. If you don't thats ok too.

But, its just not as impressive to get a model pre finished out of a box and assemble it. Then its all the same models at the filed. Same colors even.

Sure you don't want to crash a hand built master piece, or a heavily modified arf, thats why we mold our stuff . It makes any model immortal really. Any model.

I fabricate and modify my models because I hang around people who are master modelers/fabricators, and are not very easily impressed. And still all in good fun.

But thats just us. To each his own.

An arf is just a big head start for me on a "build".



Steve

i cant decide if I am going to install the plastic wheel wells or leave them out?

Ok then fitting the retracts http://www.sierragiant.com/ I purchased a set of Darrell about a week ago and I nothing but good things to say about this company! The retracts are a high quality unit with sprung struts included, see the deal he has listed above, to fit them you have to take some chunks of wood out of the support rails and taper the front rib to allow the hose to fit in without chafing..(look at photo 2 blue tube)..... I have also decided to fit the plastic wheel wells too and they go in nicley between the cylinder and the frame of the strut you do have to slightly enlarge the balsa covering to slip the retract in..... I am using the stock wheel too and it fits right onto the gear

Ram44

Can you tell us what your model weighs when finished please?

Thanks

Steve

Snappa,

With the gear extended, where do the wheels line up relevant to the leading edge? Do you have any pictures taken from the side showing that angle? I haven't decided if I'm going to do the big wing mod and make a new position for the gear or go with a drop in set. Those SJ gear do look nice though.

Tim

ready to fly fully loaded without fuel, 13.2 pounds

Needs bigger wheels! Those tiny things really distract me for some reason. Get some William's Brothers wheels.

wheels , try some williams brothers , they look the part

I put the Williams Bros. Wheels on my Sierra gear. I should have rotated the gear forward just a touch when mounting them because the wheel is almost touching the spar when retracted. I hope to get them all mounted up this weekend.

Thanks Ram44 for the info.

Steve

No problem.

Looks like I may have to upgrade the wheels. The prop is two inches away from a prop strike.... 20-8. I could go with a 18-8. Running prop per my instructional booklet says use a 19-8 but finding them are next to impossible.