kahloq

I look forward to meeting you at Warbirds. You'll see mine there. I think Lenny and I have a plan on the retracts from Shindinmacahine.

I also have the saito 220 comming. Like you, I'm working on the rest of the kit but I'm waiting on a new canopy from CMP. Mine will be done in a few days. I plan on having it at the field for pictures and engine test next weekend.

This is the first of a few pics. I have to load one at a time to avoid being timed out.

The leading edge covered with clear packing tape to act as a protective coating as I put epoxy on the leading edge to create the exact same leading edge shape and that will become the mold for the glass slat. The wing is not waxed or seal with anything else, just tape, and it works

Steve

This is the pic of the epoxy resin mixed with cabosil and black tint over glass tape that is normally use for seaming.


Note in the previous pic the grey tape is the slat size taken from a card stock pattern used on both sides. same pattern used on both sides.

This is the basic concept of copying shapes exactly. you can see how this can be used to get extra parts if you "think".

steve

This pic shows what you get. A mold to lay up a glass slat. The layup is a variable of glass. Note to mold off compound surfaces, a mold release wax and a safety layer of PVA is what we use as insurance of safe release of mold. Tape will work of straight surfaces only


Next is the more complex linkage of this slat deployment.


Steve

...some food (fuel) for thoughts about your engine choice...
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7894857/anchors_7894871/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7894871]click here[/link]

Happy landings
G-Pete

I tried to post yesterday but I am a slow typer and I was timed out. I made a mockup of part of the wing panel with a spring air unit mockup installed. It shows the problems in the installation and the limits of tire size. The one problem I have is not knowing the proceedure to download pictures, Any help would be appreciated.

When you click the Reply button and the page opens up where you type in your text for the message, look under the text box where it says "Click here to upload images and files!". Once you click that, a new small window pops up with a bunch of browse buttons. Click the first one and then using the interface, browse to what folder the picture islocated in and double click the picture file or once click then click Open. You can repeat that process several times(once per each browse button). Once you are finished there, click the OK button at the bottom of that browse list window and the files will be uploaded. The, it will tell you finished successfully and you click OK. The you can either add more text here in the text window or simply click the OK button under here when done.

photos of bf109f gear mockup

First photo is of the spring air retract mocked up from balsa.
Second photo is of gear in the retracted position with a 4" hard foam wheel. The scale bay just takes the 4" wheel, scale @5.4/1 is 4,75".
The third is of the gear in the extended position.
Continued on next message.

2nd set of retract pics. My thanks to kahlog for the instructions on how to add a pic.
Forth pic is the gear partly retracted ,the dark object is a drfill that I used as a pivot. You can see that the pivot is in the center of the first rib.
Fifth pic are some note on things to do with the real gear.
Sixth pic is another one in the retracted position.
There are sevelal things that control how the gear fits;
1. The pitch angle of the pivot controls 2 parameters. The position of the gear in relation to the leading edge of the wing, and in conjunction with roll axis of the gear strut, how the gear fits in the well
2, The angle that the roll axis of the pivot makes relative to the pitch angle controls where the gear end up when extended.
3. The position of the gear mechanism wants to be is close to the lower skin as possible, while maintaining the pitch angle of the pivot.
All in all it took 10 hours to make the mockup, but it was worth it when you figure the price of a new wing

Did CMP screw up on the wing servo trays?
On page 3 of the instructions they show the orientation of the 6 servo trays. In the view that shows the wing bottom, start at the left hand side and label the servo mounts, going from left to right, L1, L2, and L3.
On the right side label the mounts, going from left to right, R4, R5, and R6.
Now L1,and R6 are the mounts for the aileron servos and their are shown as opposites to allow you to "Y" the connection into 1 channel of the receiver this way one pushes the LH aileron while the other pulls on the RH aileron which is correct.
Next L2 and R5 are the flaps and their servos are mounted the same and attached to a "Y" connector so they both push or both pull.
Now we come to the problem, L3 and R4. The way they are shown, if "Y"ed one opens the spoilers while the other closed.
The real villain is the person that illustrared the instructions.
There should be 1 right hand mount located in R4 and L1, L2, L3, R5, and R6 should all be left hand mounts.
Or do I owe CMP an appology?

Even if they screwed up, simply use a reversing y-harness or have the air brake/oil cooler flaps on separate channels and mix them in your radio. This is what Im doing anyhow.....in fact landing flaps will be controlled by a completely different switch from the oil cooler flaps so they can be activated indepentantly. My self, I would have rathered they put opposites for each side just for appearance sake, but I understand why they did some of it the way they did to make it easier for radios without prograaming, or with fewer channels then I'll be using(9)

I just got mine from A-K models. It looks great and I am looking forward to get it in the air. I plan on seeing what is available for retracts, so I doubt I'll get it up this season. I already have the engine though, an OS 1.60 two stroke w/ inverted pitts. Same power I have on my 86" Ki-61, so it should really haul the BF-109 around with some authority, maybe even faster than one of those MUCH faster electrics.

If anyone else is ready to pull the trigger on one of these Alex at A-K has plenty in stock. He's great to deal with and will get one right out to you.

[link=http://ak-models.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=AKM]A-K MODELS[/link]

I bought my Richmodel 120 P-51 from ak-models and was very happy wih the transaction. I will buy from Alex again, no question.

same here brought a lightining dart from AK good deal and freight cheap..... now would this motor fit? or too big http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/210825.asp or shout I just go with a 180 single? I really cant make my mind up to be honest as I originally wanted one of these with two magnum 52 4 strokes? http://www.nitroplanes.com/ptwmu4070nig.html but are really swinging to the BF

Well I did it!! just purchased one from AK-models quite excited now really...... looking at motors now choice between a saito 180 or a Magnum 180? only $50 difference in price I got a little interested in the YS 170 ...... until I saw the price!

Don't do the magnum

yeah I sort of agree with that, what about YS? do they make one suitable? also this really will be my first scale plane and 4 stroke motor how much oil does a glow 4 stroke throw around? the same as a two stroke considering they still run 18% oil?

Four strokes have more complete burning so they should throw a bit less oil. Normally you run four strokes a bit richer though so it tends to equal out from my experience. I'm sticking a OS 1.60 two stroke in mine. I noticed the vibration mount provided in the kit will not match up to the hole pattern in the big OS.

I just had a quick look at Tower for the 160 two stroke and its value is $US299, a 4 stroke is about $US400 if you are talking about two stroke what about a gas motor? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNRH4&P=0 means carrying another fuel container but its mixes at 100:1 so there will be little slime one would hope?

I just received my Saito 220 today won on eBay for 400. Its very close in size to the Saito 180. If I have time this weekend, I'll install it and list picks. It was my intentions to have this built ready for the field this weekend but too many hurry up and wait games held me back from accomplishing my goals. My retracts from Shindin should arrive soon.

Hi All

Since I'm going to put the retracts in a more scale position, I'll post a pic of the internal construction. Its not as bad as I thought, some pretty good reinforcement.

What I am going to do is put the gear with the correct forward rake and move the gear forward towards to LE . This not only gives the model better ground handling and less potential to nose over, it also retracts and sweeps back as in scale.

The forward rake has worked well on all my 109 over the years and gives you a chance to avoid nose overs.

Steve

what one did you get?

I got the retracts made for the KMP me109. I'll do a little modification to the kit to get them where I want.

Here are some pics of the engine installation. What a pain...[:@] I think the vibration mounts are used for the YS engines, not saito. It's not perfect but I think this is as close as I'll get.

Steve,

What do you plan to use to replace CMP's covering material ?