I'll cover the open sections and glass the wing. I did this on my 72" span CMP Zero.

The covering was already wrinkling and coming off in my shop. I don't want to deal with that.

The question is always, " doesn't glassing add weight" , it could if you weigh it. But not enough to cause flight problems if done properly. I plan on reducing the number of servos in the wing by connecting all the flaps to one strong servo and one for the slats.

What do you think you'll do when your covering comes off?

Steve

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5733 I take it this is too big? mine has not got here yet so I have no idea? nice looking motor though

yer 50cc = 3 cubic inch way too big pity really it would be nice to put a two stroke gasser twin in it....... however now I have found this motor I am going to find a plane to fit it lol

Steve,
I'll cry, but I will have rekitted it long before it wrinkles.
One more question if you don't mind.
What type paint do you use to match the paint on the wing when you recover it, assuming that you also plan to recover the tail flight surfaces?
I have always used Hobbypoxy, but my stash of yellow,black,white,blue and flat catalist is rapidly depleting. I also lost the sheet where they tell you what to mix to obtain the German RLM color. Any ideas?? Also I found several referances that you might find helpful. I obtained a copy of the book about Hahn, ""Hans "Assi" Hahn,"The Man and His Machines"".The plane that he flew that comes the closest to the kit is plane #5, the coloring is simular but it has a RLM 04 cowl and rudder with 31 victory bars on both sides, plus other changes to numerous to mention. Another referance is the Profile on the 109f that features Hahn's aircraft on the inside of the front cover.
One other source of information is, www.flickr.com/photo/farinihouseoflove/sets, you can go wild with the thousands photo of the 109

Heres what works for me and my scale buddies. Tell me when to stop talking. Its my favorite airframe.

Over the past 20 years of scale design / fabricating, my buddies and I have concluded that many of the publications conflict one another. So, we always make our models look the way the one documentation we have chosen shows. Using one picture, one diagram (most of the time, unless you like the tail or cowl of another plane or if it doesn't look right). If you look at all the info on a BF/ME 109 you will see that one can get away with a number of color variations, prop sizes, wheel sizes, canopys, intake scoops,ect......... What ever kept the planes in the air, within reason of course was done. Mostly in the ladder part of the war.

Yellow 14 in North Afrika had 4 or 5 schemes on different Wrk N. planes. Same Pilot. Our small 48" span 109F (Yel 14) always gets a comment about it never having a red primed rudder. I have a few pictures showing it with one. and I even read about why its red.

Color matching. In war time, color matching was not a priority. I feel the same way. I choose a scheme, mix my water based acrylic latex (home depot) scan some markings, make the decals and its pretty impressive.

Tail sections and other fabric covered surfaces will be covered with the real fabric looking Solar Tex with a scale frame under it to make the surfaces look like the real ones

I will glass my model. It will not have the CMP scheme. I look at the ARFs as ARCs, and put my own colors and options on the model. Although it not my own creation, I can put a unique look on it to set it apart. Both mechanically and looks.


I noticed your in banning. Note that CMP uses a cheap polyester resin. Keep the model out of direct sunlight. The fuse will soften to a point of being spongy.


Thanks for the documentation info. Too much info makes it harder for me to commit to something!!.

If you like I can post pics on this thread also the as well as the one I started of what I'm going (getting into)to do.



I don't mind questions, and I"m aways willing to listen and learn. And help.

Steve

I found this link tonight when I was trying to find pictures of the fairing over the starboard exhausts. Lots of neat info:

http://anonymous-generaltopics.blogs...tt-bf-109.html

You can also search "109 Lair". It has some of the best info on most 109 varients.

Steve

Here is a pic of the installation of the engine servo. You can see the damage to the front of the fuse from shipping. I'll fix this later when I drop the engine down 1/8. I'll replace the prop with the correct one when all is completed up here. I still have to figure the muffler installation. This engine is very close in size to the 180 for those of you planning to go that route.

well I have just purchased an ASP 180 for it....... so thats two very expensive packages about to arrive what servos are you lot using? I see a Hitec in the last photo that is also my fav servo

Ram , Macs products sells 90 degree bends for the muffler and flex pipe .
THis will allow you a very tight exit in an attempt to maximize the scale outline .
You will need to use JB weld on the sleeve , I found this prevents any slipage under vibration .

I own many CMP planes and have never had any problems with the durability of the covering. I know some like to glass to add details, but for those who have never had a CMP plane I don't think you have to worry. I have even repainted my CMP Hellcat with great results. I just sprayed over the whole thing with Minwax polyurethane and it has been holding up great.

I plan on adding some color (maybe some yellow here and there) and will spray over it with the polyurethane.

Snappa,

Due to the size of the engine, I went with JR126mgs everywhere other than the retracts and the throttle. Just in case.

LDM, Thanks for the info.

Im using JR DS821's most everywhere on the CMP ME-109. I have the H9 1.50 P-51 with a saito 220 in it and although nice servos, the JR126mgs arent necessary. Nothing wrong with using them, but in quantity, will add up to a sizeable cost. My P-51 has the DS821's all around(except the throttle and the rudder servo).
Please note, I highly recommend NOT using a digital servo for the throttle servo. I have had three planes with digital servos on the throttle and all three failed. One causing the loss of the plane, another bunrt out after the first flight once the plane touched down thankfully, and the third caused the throttle to be stuck wide open forcing me to run the fuel out and deadstick the plane. Though I cannot stated this emplicitly, it seems that a digital servo is constantly trying to center itself and on the throttle, since its forced to stay in one position for extended lengths of time(say full throttle or 3/4), it overheats and can burn out.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LM1174&P=K I have yet to recieve my plane but this servo I have had alot of luck with, will make my mind up once the plane arrived, on a side note my motor arrived today WHAT A BEAST!!!! I got an ASP 180 and the finish and quality seems superb

I am a 4 stroke virgin though so I have some questions..... on this motor the crankcase breather exits by the camshaft through a tube to the intake, there is no snubber to restrict the flow or any sort of one way valve, what happens at WOT with this tube? with the piston going up and down 8000 times a minute that's an awful lot of crankcase air pushing back and forwards through this tube! could it affect the mixture? in a closed throttle situation I gues with the vacuum the intake forms it will suck out all the excess oil but once again the piston pulsed may play havoc with the mix? I can see the advantage to this with no oil dripping out of a tube under the plane.....

I use JR126mg because I have a ton of them from my 1/5 scale warbirds that I've built and are currently building so I don't have to run out and get more servos. These servos only cost $34, just a few bucks more than the DS821. I like having the extra umph in my servos since I put all my birds through the test and a few extra bucks whon't kill you if you value your plane. I've seen some fatal crashes because some pilots didn't go the extra mile. I lost one last year to a servo vailure, complete loss, two years to build it and two mins to lose it.
I agree if your not going to push it, then they may be a bit much. I personally wouldn't want to go through another loss because I didn't want to spend the extra cash but the lesser servos will work just fine.

I agree that digital servos on the engine is just asking for trouble. I try to avoid them at all cost there. Just this weekend at the field, some poor guy lost his plane to some kinda glitch and all he used were digital servos.

I didnt check the prices on those JR126mgs. Not a bad choice for $34. Having a bunch already on hand of course is useful.

pics of additional engine area work. Retract servo/valve etc all in place and working. Air fill valve placed on the wood mounting surface with large metal washer to hold it nice a snug.
Ive also installed a new servo tray behind the stock one since the stock location will be used for the two 5s 4800 batteries.
Still working on getting the pilot to fit ok.

kahloq

Love the conversion. I've always wanted to go electric but the price of batteries and watching my friends F4U go up in flames after a bad landing(CRASH) has scared me away from them. I don't mind the smaller ones but the batteries just seem too much to deal with along with the extra that goes into them. Do you have any options or locations where the batteries are reasonable. I have a kit I would love to convert.

A pic of the rudder.

Pretty good fit but, since CMP put a radius on the rudder LE, I thought I would do what CMP has done with the other control surfaces but neglected to do on the fuse V-stab.



So I opened up the back of the V-stab, sanded the filler down and fit the rudder to the fuse in a more scale like method. The rudder even fits better with the V-stab. I also noticed that the rudders shape was wrong for this version of the 109, so I sanded the bottom corner to a softer radius. Also, I will cover the all the fabric surfaces with Solartex. It has a fabric weave look to it. I will also use aluminum tape patterned with a "pounce"(?) wheel. It will give the look of stitched fabric on a rib.

The rudder will be anchored will a balsa rudder post, countersunk to give the rudder a faired look.

The V-stab is a bit fat and symetrical. I may correct that to the a-symetrical airfoil as in scale, along with the rudder. Our small 109 is a-symetrical. I don't know if it helps in flight, but it gets comments about not being symetrical. It make a good conversation issue.

I will also use hidden control linkage. The model is big next to my small one and the small one has hidden elevator linkage.

Steve

Kahlog.

Yours is coming along nicely.

Steve

To quote Clint Eastwood, "A man's got to know his limitations...." I have neither the skill, nor the patience (wish I did!) to do what you guys do to add to the planes.

I have to agree with you. Or as I live by "One has to be smart enough to know where his stupid starts".



Steve

bit nerve wracking to be honest track says mine left the states on route to NZ on the 7th so how long does it take to fly from there to here lol must be making a few stops on the way I guess I will just keep checking

Not sure why your friends F4U went up in flames on a bad landing unless it really shorted out the esc bad due to impact damage. Thats a pretty hard hit to cause that though. A friend of mine had the H9 1.50 P-51 on electric with two 6s 5000 thunderpower batts in series and he lost it(might have gotten too slow) and when it hit the spun into ground nose first and destroyed the plane, there was no smoke, no fire, no nothing.

For batteries go here: www.Hobbycity.com
They have decent batteries for pretty cheap. A 5s 4900mah 25c battery from Flightpower costs $294 through towerhobbies.
I bought four of the Zippy-R 5s 4800mah 20-30c batts from hobbycity for $99ea. Thats a $200 saving per battery.
A fellow club flier got a 6s 4900 Zippy-rhyno 4900 batt for $129 and he's put 30 flights on it so far with no loss of output.
So, with two 5s 4800's in my plane, Ill have a 10s 4800 setup that doesnt break the bank and wont hurt near as bad if somehting goes south.

For batts through hobbycity, get at least the Zippy-H versions....but preferably the zippy-r or the zippy-rhyno. The H versons are made in china and are ok, but not really high output. The zippy-r , zippy-k and zippy-rhyno come from korea or tawain and are the same basic enerland cells found in thunderpower and flightpower. Whatever you do, dont get just plane old zippy with no letter designation as those are the economy brand and dont last long