Rc-Sport - I can help that, I am building the DV and a CAP-x for the Toledo Show. There will be other new planes there too!

Kitman

Kitman I got my call today for the DV!!! Should see it next week. What do you feel will make the best motor choice? DA 50? YS140? I was leaning towards the DA50.

Redwings

Red Wing,

If your budget can support a DA 50, that is the best combination! When you get it send me an e-mail with your thoughts.

Kitman

Oh man, the first booth I go to at Toledo is Planes Plus.

Kitman I will let you know. What servos would you use? Thinking about Futaba or Hitec Metal gears with 100 + OZ Torque???

Kitman, what kind of hinges comes with the DV? If you do not use the supplied hinges what will you use?

I'll vouch for Don and Chip as many others will. I've met don several times and he's a good guy, good businessman and will deliver. You can see he is here on this forum to ensure good status updates and communication and I'm very confident these new products are going to be winners. Don at Planes Plus and Chip Hyde are two of the best to have standing behind a product such as the DV. I cannot wait to see all the pics and videos from the members here on these new planes.

We should have detailed RCU reviews on a few of them as well but I have no firm publish dates thus far as we have been backlogged from the nasty winter. I have the feeling these are going to be a few of the most anticipated and popular ones we've ever covered.

Red Wings - I am using Futaba 9151 on all surfaces and Futaba 9152 on the rudder.

Rgreen24 - The kit provides CA hinges. (the one with the slots for better wicking)


Kitman

Hey Kitman I got my double V today and you were right--- what an awesome looking plane. It has the biggest rudder I have ever seen on a plane. Say I wanted to ask you about how you go about setting up your ailerons. This is my first bipe and I -- I know how to Y off each side but I don't know how to hook th servo up to the Y harness and then to receiver. Do you have any pics of how you did it. I am just wondering if the Y harness meets the extensions inside the plane or by the Cabane. Your help would be much appreciated. By the way are you going to tap your wing tube? I am planning on putting hard wood dowels into each section of the wing tube, so the screw has something more to bite into more than just a tap. I do not trust the tap set up. I know that it may have work for people in the past and present, but I like to feel a little more secure knowing that the screw it boltled into the wood and there is no chance of it coming out.

rgreen24

I run the extentions from the up the center wing mountand plug the wings in at that point. I will have pictures this week for you. Send me your ph number to [email protected] and I will call to help you.


Kitman

Kitman and other owners,
Please keep the pictures coming. If your camera is up to it, shoot some fine details of your work.

I must use a pipe to keep within reasonable noise limits. I'd be interested in all comments and suggestions for good pipe fixation. I see that the pipe trough is wide but VERY shallow. I would value your opinions on removing the existing trough and placing in a deeper trough. Of course, it is made to fly so either way I'll be happy, but prettier is better. I'll use the DA50...hopefully a proper header will be ready by the time I need to fit the exhaust into place.

How is the hardware? All sounds really good here. What do you buyers out there think. And lastly, please give us the big flight report. Why are you at work? You should be building your DV!!!

Regards,
Mark

I'm glad to see all of the fun reaction to teh Double Visions. I have had my pre-production finished and ready to fly since January this year. It's no fun waiting for some half decent NJ weather. I have just had to content myself with watching my videos of Chip flying it with his feet at the Vegas Hobby Visions show.

I did enjoy seeing Don and the production version at the NY WRAM show. It had the servo tray pre installed, a wider cabane section, a short belly pan for header and silencer/pipe set up etc. There are quite a few very small changes that come from lots of testing and more than one person building it. This makes production version easier for you all to assemble. The Basic plane is still the same and I predict still awesome....

I have a bunch of time on building this puppy so if you have any questions I might be able to help.

Rergards,

Eric.

Hey Don do you have any pics of the Extras? Is there plans for a larger one?


Thanks
Chris

There was a question about aileron op[tions that I would like to addrress,

The Double Vision can be flown using a basic radio with all four ailerons simply connected with Y-leads and no computer mixing. BUT this does put quite load on the RX and you ould be better off going through a Matchbox or equivalent. Then you can "tune" each aileron servo and even use a separate.

A two-channel double Y-lead installation would share the load better. It also allows the use of the Flaperon option, (Elevator can be linked to move the ailerons up and down in concert). It also allows the use of the Flap option (A switch or rotary/slider control can be employed to lower or raise the ailerons as a form of flaps.) .

The Flaperon option can be used to tighten loops or aid in landings and take-offs. The Flap option allows the pilot to experiment with very slow flight or high angle-of-attack maneuvers such as “Harriers� or “Waterfalls�, etc.

A third option is to use three channels, one for each top wing servo and a third with a Y-lead for the bottom two ailerons. This method spreads the load over more channels and keeps the bottom two controls as pure ailerons, while allowing Flaperon and Flap mix options on the top wing.

You can experiment a lot with this set up With the top ailerons deployed as down flaps it will fly very slowly and allow extremely steep descents into small landing sites, The bottom two ailerons keep on providing roll control while the top two are basically only functioning as flaps.

Four channels can be used to give a wide range of mixing options. On a different Bi-plane I actually had open-and-closed-crow! Open-crow is both the top ailerons up and both the bottom ailerons down. Really high drag configuration :-) With all the ailerons in closed-crow - bottom ailerons up and top ailerons down it stopped flying :-(

last but not least if you wanted to go really nuts you could also program ailevators - make the elevators act like ailerons. A flight mode like that is only for the crazy.... best regards, Crazy-Eric....

Mark Novak, The hardware pack is very complete, they supply ball bearing aluminum control horns and clevises for all surfaces, very smooth. The cabane struts are preformed fiberglass that simply slip over the screwed in hold down, great design!

The center pipe section is a very light fiberglass tray that the pipe to sits in, David at Desert Aircraft is sending a header kit for me help with the design, we are using the KS wide canister, because he believes it has better performance specs with his DA-50, more to come as I get the design worked out.


Kitman

Due to the crappy weather I did take out the 8411 on the rudder and fit an 8611. Chip was very clear on the fact that it does not need two servos on the rudder and that it also does not need a lot of throw. You will see that the fin is not beveled and that the rudder can't really travel that far. The way his flew I have to agree with him. However, it was still easy as for me to rationalise the need for an 8611 (VBG) [ wife does not read this conference]

I am going to put a DA50R in my DV. Can anyone tell me what type of mount is the best for this engine and where can I purchase it?

You need 1-7/8" stand offs made by Desert Aircraft.


Kitman

Kitman thanks so much for the call tonight. I wsa wondering if I just a pair of bad cabanes. I was also talking to Kitman about using aluminum imstead of the fiberglass cabanes. Positives-- may be a little stronger, also may be a lot easier to assemble at the field. I will tell you that after I could not fit the Cabanes on properly, I was about ready to sell the plane, and then I cam to my senses. My wing top wing tube was also too short so I had to get one from a buddy. Just a thought did anyone wonder why the hard points in the wing are so far in.. I figured that they would be between 6 and 8 in from wing root. May be this design helps in strengthening the airframe. Anyone have any thougths about using lite aluminum for the cabane in the wing?

Hey guys the problem was found. I turned the struts the wrong way (Moron ) yes I know. I think that things will move a lot more smoothly from here!!!!!!!!!

Come to ToledOOOOOO!
Don

every ultimate i have flown did not need much rudder throw as they have some stong rudder power. keep the pics coming all...

Has anyone had the problem with the aluminum tube for the upper wing not being long enough? The directions say cut them to fit but mine seem short. The ends just go beyond the leading edge of the reinforced block that is in the wing.

Yeah I was afriad you would say that. Oh well only a week and a half away. See you and Chip there then again at Larry's


Chris

Hey Red wings I had that same problem. I had to buy another wing tube that was about 21 inches long. The upper wing tube that comes with the kit is only 20" but it needs to be atleast 21 inches. I think if you let Don know he will take care of you. A buddy of mine had a one inch tube laying around so I traded him for a 7/8" tube.