U Can Do 3D
11-21-2003 | 05:26 PM
#1679
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
In the pic the canopy looks to be painted on the outside, or is it just the pic? I've been shooting mine on the inside after etching the interior so the paint will stick. I use "Krylon" brand paint, (K Mart) its made for plastic and dries in about 15 minutes and canopy glue does't eat it. Joe
11-21-2003 | 06:19 PM
#1680
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From: Nuneaton,
GA, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: I & C Tech
Does anyone actually think that the U-CAN-DO-3D is UGLY!!!!!!! ill love my new weston hype and it looks a thousand times better!!!!!!!!! and flys great!!!!!!!!!!
11-21-2003 | 06:45 PM
#1681
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
Ugly? I don't think a dog would lift its leg to it but, if thats what gives it the great flight characteristics........ I'm jiggy wit dat!
11-21-2003 | 06:57 PM
#1683
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
Raj, With 120 grit sandpaper. "Etching" is just a fancy word for scratching! The cool part is no matter how much you sand it all the scratches dissapear when painted. From the outside you get a nice shiny and chip free finish. The coating is on the inside, so it only ends up looking as bad as the canopy would under knock around conditions. Joe
11-21-2003 | 07:42 PM
#1686
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
Since I got turned on to "Krylon" I use it on everything. Interior, exterior, It boasts super bonding and now there is a line made just for plastic. The best part is the dry time, 15 minutes. Sure helps at production time. Painting the canopies started after I put about 10 or so hours in a custom cocpit with a pilot on a stinger .60 and then wrecked the plane. Paint is alot quicker. Joe
11-21-2003 | 08:22 PM
#1689
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From: Morgantown,
WV
RE: I & C Tech
Here is a pic of my UCD. I painted the inside of my canopy with some black paint I got from Lowes. I don't even remember the brand name. I didn't bother doing anything to the inside of the canopy other than cleaning it out with alcohol. The paints been there nearly 1 year and it still looks great. Unfortunately I now have a small dent in the canopy from puttin it on my fieldbox cradle upside down. CAn't seem to pop that out. I used R56 canopy glue and black trim tape to seal the edge.
11-22-2003 | 08:57 AM
#1690
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
Coo, nice job on the plane. Nice and neat. I see you went with the stock push/pull rudder servo setup. I went for the pull/pull. Does a 7 lb. plane need it? I don't know but would like to think it benefits from this setup. On the cowl I went one step further and carved out those little dobbers on either side of the spinner in hopes of some added ventilation. Looks cool too. Also I took 4 of the brass grometts and rubber mounts from the servos and installed them on the cowl mounting screws for vibration. It helps a lot. Joe
11-22-2003 | 11:05 AM
#1691
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From: Oceanside,
CA
RE: I & C Tech
when you guys put your servos in the back elevator and rudder did the airframe seem a little weak????
i don't like that feeling but once the screws were in it seemed pretty strong.
i don't like that feeling but once the screws were in it seemed pretty strong.
11-22-2003 | 05:13 PM
#1692
RE: I & C Tech
James,
I have not had a problem with the tail at all and I have crashed one hard. The tail was about the only thing still intact. The servos have never pulled out either.
Chris
I have not had a problem with the tail at all and I have crashed one hard. The tail was about the only thing still intact. The servos have never pulled out either.
Chris
11-22-2003 | 05:21 PM
#1693
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
I usually drive in the screws on all servos to thread the hole, then back them out and put a drop of thin CA in each hole. That hardens the threads in the balsa, kinda like the threads in a nut. Once the glue is dry I mount the servos. If your concerned with just the area around the opening that the servo goes in you can glue in screw blocks inside the fuse. 1/4" X 3/8" works good. That is what has to be done when installing the pull/pull setup on the rudder. Joe
11-22-2003 | 08:08 PM
#1694
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RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru
Coo, nice job on the plane. Nice and neat. I see you went with the stock push/pull rudder servo setup. I went for the pull/pull. Does a 7 lb. plane need it? I don't know but would like to think it benefits from this setup. On the cowl I went one step further and carved out those little dobbers on either side of the spinner in hopes of some added ventilation. Looks cool too. Also I took 4 of the brass grometts and rubber mounts from the servos and installed them on the cowl mounting screws for vibration. It helps a lot. Joe
Coo, nice job on the plane. Nice and neat. I see you went with the stock push/pull rudder servo setup. I went for the pull/pull. Does a 7 lb. plane need it? I don't know but would like to think it benefits from this setup. On the cowl I went one step further and carved out those little dobbers on either side of the spinner in hopes of some added ventilation. Looks cool too. Also I took 4 of the brass grometts and rubber mounts from the servos and installed them on the cowl mounting screws for vibration. It helps a lot. Joe
can you explain your linkages a bit better to me? Do you have links to where you got them? I am leaving smaller planes with standard servos now and dont know too much regarding bigger linkages for heavy duty use etc.
thanks
11-23-2003 | 10:39 AM
#1695
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
Diablo, Dubro carries what you need. 4/40 is the way to go and the UCD.60 can easily handle the wight on the tail. All the stuff is listed as heavy duty and getting packs of a dozen is cheaper than buying individual packs. Here is what you need to shop with the part number:
Quanities are for pull/pull on rudder set up, duel ail. and duel elv.
6 - 4/40 rods threaded one end #144
6 - 4/40 threaded coupler #336 (this gets soldered on to other end of 4/40 rod)
6 - 4/40 ball links #259 (servo arm side)
6 - 4/40 spring steel quick links #304 (control horn side)
4 - Heavy duty control horns #866 (ail. and elv.)
1 - Heavy duty control horn #882 (rudder pull/pull)
Now on the pull/ pull setup from Dubro, The cone that spins on either side is a little long and limits the throw on the rudder. I found shorter CF ones online somewhere. Also you have to bend the threaded rod in the center, like a shallow V shape and angle it forward when installing so the push rods don't bind.
Hope this helps, you are going to love it! Joe
Quanities are for pull/pull on rudder set up, duel ail. and duel elv.
6 - 4/40 rods threaded one end #144
6 - 4/40 threaded coupler #336 (this gets soldered on to other end of 4/40 rod)
6 - 4/40 ball links #259 (servo arm side)
6 - 4/40 spring steel quick links #304 (control horn side)
4 - Heavy duty control horns #866 (ail. and elv.)
1 - Heavy duty control horn #882 (rudder pull/pull)
Now on the pull/ pull setup from Dubro, The cone that spins on either side is a little long and limits the throw on the rudder. I found shorter CF ones online somewhere. Also you have to bend the threaded rod in the center, like a shallow V shape and angle it forward when installing so the push rods don't bind.
Hope this helps, you are going to love it! Joe
11-23-2003 | 11:22 AM
#1696
My Feedback: (68)
RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru
Diablo, Dubro carries what you need. 4/40 is the way to go and the UCD.60 can easily handle the wight on the tail. All the stuff is listed as heavy duty and getting packs of a dozen is cheaper than buying individual packs. Here is what you need to shop with the part number:
Quanities are for pull/pull on rudder set up, duel ail. and duel elv.
6 - 4/40 rods threaded one end #144
6 - 4/40 threaded coupler #336 (this gets soldered on to other end of 4/40 rod)
6 - 4/40 ball links #259 (servo arm side)
6 - 4/40 spring steel quick links #304 (control horn side)
4 - Heavy duty control horns #866 (ail. and elv.)
1 - Heavy duty control horn #882 (rudder pull/pull)
Now on the pull/ pull setup from Dubro, The cone that spins on either side is a little long and limits the throw on the rudder. I found shorter CF ones online somewhere. Also you have to bend the threaded rod in the center, like a shallow V shape and angle it forward when installing so the push rods don't bind.
Hope this helps, you are going to love it! Joe
Diablo, Dubro carries what you need. 4/40 is the way to go and the UCD.60 can easily handle the wight on the tail. All the stuff is listed as heavy duty and getting packs of a dozen is cheaper than buying individual packs. Here is what you need to shop with the part number:
Quanities are for pull/pull on rudder set up, duel ail. and duel elv.
6 - 4/40 rods threaded one end #144
6 - 4/40 threaded coupler #336 (this gets soldered on to other end of 4/40 rod)
6 - 4/40 ball links #259 (servo arm side)
6 - 4/40 spring steel quick links #304 (control horn side)
4 - Heavy duty control horns #866 (ail. and elv.)
1 - Heavy duty control horn #882 (rudder pull/pull)
Now on the pull/ pull setup from Dubro, The cone that spins on either side is a little long and limits the throw on the rudder. I found shorter CF ones online somewhere. Also you have to bend the threaded rod in the center, like a shallow V shape and angle it forward when installing so the push rods don't bind.
Hope this helps, you are going to love it! Joe
You are a scholar and a gentelmen!
11-23-2003 | 01:19 PM
#1697
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
No problem Diablo, Just returning the favor. I picked up a link from one of your posts for the 3D flying guide on Horrizon Hobby's site. Now I look like I know what I'm doing. Joe
11-23-2003 | 05:16 PM
#1698
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: I & C Tech
Diablo, If you want to save some money and a little weight you don't really need the threaded coupler #336 or the ball links #259. Just Z bend that end where it connects to the servo arm. The 4/40 hole eats up those little servo arms. Hi Tech has some nice fat ones. I used HS-605BB on ail. and elv. and HS-645MG on rudder. Standard throttle. Joe
