considering using one for rudder on what model?

Dont Ask Surrey.... Edible is the great "Im gonna have a Capiche" meister.... We will never see the colour of his money though !

Edible... 9.5 kg metal gear, sounds like the 9206 and certainly AINT £34... you can double it at least...

3010 is 6.5kg, 0.16 secs, @6V - plastic gears.
By my calc this would make it still a little better on performance at 4.8V than the 591, although hopefullly with superior accuracy, centreing and a little less slop.

Just about every thread I read that edible posts to...he's gonna build it!!

I reckon his paper round must be the whole of the midlands!!![>:]

you'd do better to make a flat plate surface and use the servo to move it. the servo one it's own wont have enough area.


good news...
found my upthrust was comming from my T-nuts poking through the firewall and pushing the mount out. i counter sunk the back of the mount and put it back on. got myself the right angle.
i've got the cowl on ok but the gap at the front is more than i'd like. but.. i'm going with the fact the firewall is right and get the cowl best i can. Much happier with the exhause exit this time, shame about the engine head exit, but it does seem to make getting it on and off easier.

I've got the tank in, did it a bit different this time. it's higher up with the top of the tank in the turtle deck, the bottom sits on a little ledge i made which comes from the top of the cut out on F2. this should give me failery constant fuel supply for the whole flight. not that i had trouble last time, but i do have more room for the Ni-cad under the tank if required.
Fuel proofing is still tricky once built, forgot my own advice to do that before you add the turtle deck and bottom balsa caps. Wondering if i can pour my fuel proofer into a spray bottle and do it that way
I can see light at the end of the tunnel, just the balsa lock to go on now and it's ready to cover.

Fuel proofer..

Oh I dont usually bother on the inside these days.... most of my fuel ends up on the outside of the plane.

By the time any fuel, burnt or otherwise, get the chance to do any appreciable damage to the inside I will have moved on to another model. Build em to fly not to last forever thats what I say..

Thats definately a suppliers perspective Arch!!!

have decided i will take the Hs 225s back and get a pair of 3010 and maybe another for the rudder to upgrade from the current plan (JR591). I already have a 3010 in my Limbo dancer and another for my elevator. Think I will go for a mini on the throttle. Mebe Hs 81mg[:'(]
busy on belly pan, not far from covering.[8D]

Yes archie i am serious about this game, just not when i am tired, up to my armpits in school work, trying to sqeeze in more shifts to get money for a Capiche 140 and Dave's little electric, and a girlfriend to keep ticking over e.t.c i know usual story for everybody! (I also did not really think that those hitecs were that bad- i have only had one go funny in flight on another plane with much bigger surfaces than the capiche, but i suppose thats one failure too many!)

However, thanks for the info. surrey.I will see about getting some getting some decent servos for my Capiche wing. The last thing i want is another crash with this plane. The elevator and rudder don't need it because i have got 11kg coreless on those.

thats how i got mine

never popped off a fuel line while filling up Archie? i've seen enough split lines and tanks leaking to make fuel proofing worth it. i've seen the entire front end of a ARTF Magic fall off because of fuel soaking. I've got to dip my Outlaws rudder in cat litter cos the pipe right next to it has taken the covering off and it needs to be redone ( this time with prymol to finish it off )

Gotta go swap out a VERY! old 148 from my car now, weird problem, it was locking over, then coming back past centre, very hard to race like that. but the servo has taken a hell of a battering over it's life, can't get better than futaba servos if you ask me. i've not proved its the servo either, only started last week when i fitted a replacement speedo, don't see how its the speedo tho, even tho it does have a boost capicator on the battery side.

Tank and plumbing problems usually occur when insufficient care is taken in installation. So no I dont see it happen that often - not to me at least. Phil I really wonder about how you do things sometimes...

Balsa selection on the FF wing.... T nuts sticking out... thrust line probs.... fuel soaking the inside of models from split tubing etc...

What I do see regularly is people complaining that their engine is crap when in fact it is the plumbing / tank side thats the problem. (unless its an MDS - then it probably is the engine !). Unless Im really stuck, every new model gets a new tank, new tubing and new filter. If Im strapped, the second hand items get a full and thorough service. I hate fking about with tanks in and out and so make sure as far as I can that I will not have to take it out once its in... Do it right first time and hopefully it will be the only time.
Hopefully (sort of) the tank only comes out when you snap the front of your model off. I usually flog my planes after 12-18 months with all the inerds intact. That said.. no-one will be getting my Capiche !

Simon... suppliers perspective ! Mmm had not thought about that... but surely people will nerf it before the front falls out from fuel soaking...... it seems that servo failure is more common than tank failure from my resales point of view LOL !

QUOTE:'Wondering if i can pour my fuel proofer into a spray bottle and do it that way'
Much easier to treat yourself to a can of spray fuel proofer (in a model shop near you now). Otherwise its really time consuming pouring it in the little hole in the top of spray nozzel
Ordered my Caphiche 50 today from CCopy, got yours yet Edible?

i've only had a split line once, and i saw it right away, but i cant see the tank, and IF i ever had a problem i'd like to be able to quickly drain the fuel and not worry than wonder what i'm gonna do next and if it's ever flyable again. for a few seconds splashing about with a brush it's worth it. Plus my planes hopefully last a LONG! time, so any fuel ingress is a bad thing ( just ask my Outlaw, half of which is sitting in a bag of cat litter as i type). Selling on your fuel soaked planes after a year, tut tut tut Archie
i've never built a plane where i can't get at the tank, even changed a few designs so i can

T-nuts.. push them the back in a fraction, the mount has been spot glued to the firewall, do up the screws to pull the nuts in. weirdly i didn't see the mount pushed off the firewall, but when i took it off to check it was straight there was my problem hidden from view. First time i've ever seen that.

Balsa selection.. Malc said get hard balsa, or even better bass. couldn't get bass.
what i had was called "hard balsa", but the aileron stock i had felt harder. i considered swapping them over and building the ailerons from the 1/4x1/4. but when i called Malc ( who didn't know it wasn't what he calls hard balsa ) he said the ailerons needed the 3/8thx1/4 and the 1/4x1/4 spars would be more than strong enough. More than strong enough sounds good enough to me eps coming from a design master, and as i was building a proto i thought it was only right to build it as desired and not go swapping bits over.
At this point i wish i had gone to Truro and got bass ( not that they have any either )

but, if it hadn't have snapped you would now be using hard balsa with orginial spar layout, and theres a chance that would snap, so the choice to go with bass and change the rear spar is the exact thing my ****up saved you from.
Would rather still have my orginial fuz in one bit seeing as i'd just finished it and loved flying it so much, but if the redesign saves a few other Capiches it was a worthy loss.

Cuban: not seen it before, will be on the look out.
and for me CC wasn't the best place to buy my C50
~~~£ <--- money flying from wallet

fuel proofer in a spray can - carefull, if its the stuff I tried then its not fuel proof against Nitro. The stuff I tried was in a white tin, Flair brand.

It was the Flair product I've used. I dont seem to have a problem with nitro. Maybe the models have all eaten dirt before they've had a chance to be eaten by fuel! I'll test some a bit more carefully.
[&o]To late now on my order, next time I'll have a weekend in Jersey[&o]

Phil... excuses excuses...

and my sell ons are not fuel soaked thank you very much !


gotta go

one very good reason to get at your tank... damn brass fittings
or the clunked clunk that refuses to flop back over.
Both of which are avoidable before fitting.

i never have excuses, i have reasons

are you sure !?

Archie...shame about the 3010 servo delay.I'm gonna have to fit some economy ones to the back end for the test flight now.Best keep the control movements down on short servo horns to avoid overloading them I suppose.
My C50 is all built now, just got to finnish covering the wings & tailplane,then fit it out.
Sorry for not posting any pics yet, but just haven't had the time to sort them out,maybe when the motor is fitted and the coverings all on so as its something different to whats been seen before.Must go and do some more covering now.

Malc, its your fault the wings broke LOL this just gets better and better [:@]

dont start him off again please

Dave i didn't say that, calm down.
it's the same wood i would be more than happy to use as a spar, infact, i used the hardest of the balsa for the center spar, the wings have even softer wood in them, but they also have a D box, leading and trailing edges to help the strength.
What i didn't take into account is the loads on the spars in that use.
2 things appeared to have happened. without a solid leading edge the drag of the wing pushed each half back. the roll forced the higher part of the FF section against the fuz acting like a lever which snapped the spars at the weakest point ( i was rolling in the direction that would force the wing that snapped up ). The aero wing doesn't have this levering load which is why the FF wing is built different ( bass vs hard balsa for a start ). i know the wing could take normal G forces because it walled brilliantly, fast rolls were ok too, but the two forces together took it out. it's possible stall and drop from about 6" high on the flight previous also did some damage.

result is it's not Malcs fault never thought that, mine for not going with MY instinct/overestimating balsa, or waiting until i could have got bass, maybe even stripping down the hard aileron stock for the spars. but thats what testing is for. Anyways, i'm back in the air soon, and this time i've got carbon rods for spars, if they break... well...

i'm done explaining the wing wasn't strong enough, i like to fuel proof my tank bays. thrust was wrong because the T-nuts poked through and i didn't see it coz of the big red thing covering them ( might of helped others ) reasons are for when you know what happened, excuses for when you want to lie your way out of trouble. And will everyone stop thinking i hate the Capiche and the way it's designed, built, and flys. If i did it would be on the website.

"calm down its only an advertisement!" (you must have seen the advert on telly "hello mum")

no one is implying you do not like your codpiece as the amount of time you spend on this thread implies you have a interest, but as for your building skills...... and your qualifications as a structural engineer........... and as an accident investigator.......... but we can only assume that at heart you are an alright sorta bloke [:-]

lol, never seen it, heard it on the Chris Moyles show.

come on dave, you know you want to add a few more and's in there
you don't need the ammo of my car racing exploits recently, or my 1.30 hour build airboat, or the park flyer i knocked up, 3 times.... ummm

anyone at our club is a top rate accident investiagtor, any club Mark AAAAAA or Gwyn flys at

as for me, umm guess you'd have to rely on Malc, Dean and Andy, oh dear, i'm sunk....[&:]

no progress on the Capiche today, lots of tinkering with cars, taking Sophie to interviews, hunting down carbon rod to fix the Pheonix, looking at cars on E-bay... oh yes.. i got a job as well
Anyone want their lead cast vintage car de-flased and cleaned up, then the next one, and the next one, i'll be your man ZZzzzzzzzzzz [&o]