U-Can-Do 3d 46?
#4151
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: gjeffers
alright Rob!!!!!! fly that thing, i was getting real close to harriering mine the other day, would bring it in like i was going to land and then let the nose go up and then just throttling just enough to keep her going and i even draged the tail a couple of times with out the main gear touching and then flying out, this is a great accomplishment for me and i want to go flying again, just like when i started
alright Rob!!!!!! fly that thing, i was getting real close to harriering mine the other day, would bring it in like i was going to land and then let the nose go up and then just throttling just enough to keep her going and i even draged the tail a couple of times with out the main gear touching and then flying out, this is a great accomplishment for me and i want to go flying again, just like when i started
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From: Bakersfield, CA
Has anyone had trouble with the Cowl? I'm tring to assemble mine and it seems as though the engine mount is located too low on the firewall which forces the cowl to point slightly downward, or the cowl has the wrong angle on the face. I end end up with a much larger gap at the bottom than the top when I'm trying to possition it for mounting. It almost seems as thought the engine should be higher on the firewall to match the cowl, but it appears to be possitioned correctly for the aircraft.
Note: I'm using supplied mount and a Saito 82.
Thanks, Chris
Note: I'm using supplied mount and a Saito 82.
Thanks, Chris
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From: Auburn,
WA
Hmmmm..... Do you have a picture of it? I have the Saito 82 in mine and don't remember having any problems with it. I just remember that it took some time to transfer all the holes.
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From: Hancock,
MI
Alquad, oops. I forgot which forum I was in. You wanted to know about the UCD 40! I was talking... another (unmentionable) plane, which is NOTHING like the Can Do.
I never saw a ST .51 on a UCD, but I'm sure it would workable, depending on where you are with your abilities and style of flying.
Jack
I never saw a ST .51 on a UCD, but I'm sure it would workable, depending on where you are with your abilities and style of flying.
Jack
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From: Hancock,
MI
And, Gary, I DID see those (supposedly) Xmas pix. I don't comment on the impossible, especially, when he has a beer in his hand and a bird on the ground. That's a *******ization of the old adage, "One pilot, sitting, on the ground, drinking, is NOT worth two birds in th air."
It's a SIN to have two birds on the ground, esp. when one of them is a Can Do. U Can ... drink? Oi.
Jack
It's a SIN to have two birds on the ground, esp. when one of them is a Can Do. U Can ... drink? Oi.
Jack
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From: Duluth, MN
I had a similar problem. I just opened up the front of the cowl where the engine shaft passes through. I used a slightly larger spinner to hide the discrepancy. Now the front of the cowl is parallel with the rear of the spinner. This is my second Ucando and I had the same problem on the first. BTW I am using an OS 91 Surpass pumper. FYI to counter the slightly nose heavyness caused by the OS91 pumper I mounted my 1500 NMH battery in the fuselage 2 inches behind the trailing edge of the wing. Balances right where I want it. Hovers nice and steady.
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From: CubbingtonWarwickshire, UNITED KINGDOM
I am using an OS91 Surpass in my UCD, when going vertical i have add small ammounts of rudder to keep it going vertical, how much right thrust are you guys putting on the engine with the OS91 or Saito 91?
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: gjeffers
no problems with the cowl, i dont think anyone has had a prob in this whole thread
and Jack must have missed my christmas day pics, HuH Rob[X(]
no problems with the cowl, i dont think anyone has had a prob in this whole thread

and Jack must have missed my christmas day pics, HuH Rob[X(]
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From: Auburn,
WA
I tried to get some flights in on Friday and the derned thing kept deadsticking....[>:] One thing I am wondering about is where you guys put the tube that vents out from the bottom of the engine. Reason I'm asking is that I had it sticking out the bottom of the cowl but I thought I saw something on a thread that said to have only about 3 inches long so since I had to take the cowl off to trim the air vent holes, I cut the vent tube down to about 3 inches. When I flew it on Friday I kept getting gobs of oil spewing out the side of the cowl. Should there be lots of excess oil coming out these Saitos? (82) [
]
]
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From: Hancock,
MI
<<Should there be lots of excess oil coming out these Saitos?>>
Rob, you may wish to find the Saito Club on RCUniverse. We had a long discussion there on "velocity stacks." There's a picture of one at the Horizon site, search part # SAI50GK93.
My Saitos are the "dirtiest" engines I run. The firewall just drips with castor after every flight. So I'm ordering a velocity stack. I guess one size fits MOST Saitos, esp. mentioned were the 82a and 1.0 engines.
As I understand it, because the carb mouth is so open, prop wash sprays excess fuel from the top of the carb onto the plane. The velocity stack gives the carb vacuum time to work on the fuel. Submitters also mentioned an increased fuel efficiency with the v stack. Sounds like a winner to me, one of those "easy answer," EUREKA moments.
Oh, evidently you must SEAL the velocity stack to the carb using an O-ring of the right size, which is NOT supplied.
The item costs $6.75 plus.... But some guys are discussing making their own.
Jack<--who detests the castor we must put up with to get into the air
Rob, you may wish to find the Saito Club on RCUniverse. We had a long discussion there on "velocity stacks." There's a picture of one at the Horizon site, search part # SAI50GK93.
My Saitos are the "dirtiest" engines I run. The firewall just drips with castor after every flight. So I'm ordering a velocity stack. I guess one size fits MOST Saitos, esp. mentioned were the 82a and 1.0 engines.
As I understand it, because the carb mouth is so open, prop wash sprays excess fuel from the top of the carb onto the plane. The velocity stack gives the carb vacuum time to work on the fuel. Submitters also mentioned an increased fuel efficiency with the v stack. Sounds like a winner to me, one of those "easy answer," EUREKA moments.
Oh, evidently you must SEAL the velocity stack to the carb using an O-ring of the right size, which is NOT supplied.
The item costs $6.75 plus.... But some guys are discussing making their own.
Jack<--who detests the castor we must put up with to get into the air
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From: Hancock,
MI
<< I tried to get some flights in on Friday and the derned thing kept deadsticking....[>:]>>
I don't know why, Rob, you get angry with a dead stick landing. You always come down, right? What's the problem?
I don't know why, Rob, you get angry with a dead stick landing. You always come down, right? What's the problem?
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From: Idaho Falls,
ID
Rob Clement-RC...The Saitos do spew out a bit of fuel. But, the fact that you keep deadsticking and you are spewing a lot of fuel makes me believe you are way to rich on the bottom end (screw that goes through the throttle lever). The Saitos come with that screw super rich. I mean...I turned mine in about 3 turns after my 40 minute break in. They will acutally run pretty good very rich, but sometimes you get deadsticks and your economy is very poor. I keep turning mine in until I'm certain it's a little lean and then back it out. If you haven't turned yours in at least 3 turns I'm betting you're still way rich. After I get my leaned out the economy increases about 30-40% and the deadsticks go away. And...as a bonus the sloppyness is less also.
Congratulations everybody!!!!!!!!!! I just saw this thread exceeded the Funtana thread in posts. (4160) That makes this thread the 2nd longest thread that I know about. (Yak is 1st). That's quite a feat in itself.
I'm still waiting for good weather and envying all you are flying without an eskimo parka.
I'm keeping busy building my Velox RII and I just got word that my Mayhem 40 shipped. WOW!!!! I ordered that baby in January. January 2005 that is. I can not believe that it took that long. That's on par with Raideron and his post office stories.
Anyway...it's weird. I finally buy a plane to build and within a week of that one my other one ships.
I can only support 6 planes so I have to get rid of 1 or 2. I've already gave away my Harrier to a club member and I'm not sure what other one I'll get rid of. I am certain it won't be a UCD. No way I'm getting rid of one of them. Maybe I'll have to get the gear to support 7!??!?!? Either that or the Showtime will have to go.
Anyways, this is indeed a great thread. And it's the long time good people who have been civil, humorous, educational, infomrative, loyal, creative, fun, good natured, upbeat, concerned, and just generally all around good guys that have made thread possible.
My hat is off to all that have participated. Now...lets go and surpass the Yak boys.
Thanks
Barry
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: Jack211
<<Should there be lots of excess oil coming out these Saitos?>>
Rob, you may wish to find the Saito Club on RCUniverse. We had a long discussion there on "velocity stacks." There's a picture of one at the Horizon site, search part # SAI50GK93.
My Saitos are the "dirtiest" engines I run. The firewall just drips with castor after every flight. So I'm ordering a velocity stack. I guess one size fits MOST Saitos, esp. mentioned were the 82a and 1.0 engines.
As I understand it, because the carb mouth is so open, prop wash sprays excess fuel from the top of the carb onto the plane. The velocity stack gives the carb vacuum time to work on the fuel. Submitters also mentioned an increased fuel efficiency with the v stack. Sounds like a winner to me, one of those "easy answer," EUREKA moments.
Oh, evidently you must SEAL the velocity stack to the carb using an O-ring of the right size, which is NOT supplied.
The item costs $6.75 plus.... But some guys are discussing making their own.
Jack<--who detests the castor we must put up with to get into the air
<<Should there be lots of excess oil coming out these Saitos?>>
Rob, you may wish to find the Saito Club on RCUniverse. We had a long discussion there on "velocity stacks." There's a picture of one at the Horizon site, search part # SAI50GK93.
My Saitos are the "dirtiest" engines I run. The firewall just drips with castor after every flight. So I'm ordering a velocity stack. I guess one size fits MOST Saitos, esp. mentioned were the 82a and 1.0 engines.
As I understand it, because the carb mouth is so open, prop wash sprays excess fuel from the top of the carb onto the plane. The velocity stack gives the carb vacuum time to work on the fuel. Submitters also mentioned an increased fuel efficiency with the v stack. Sounds like a winner to me, one of those "easy answer," EUREKA moments.
Oh, evidently you must SEAL the velocity stack to the carb using an O-ring of the right size, which is NOT supplied.
The item costs $6.75 plus.... But some guys are discussing making their own.
Jack<--who detests the castor we must put up with to get into the air
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: Jack211
<< I tried to get some flights in on Friday and the derned thing kept deadsticking....[>:]>>
I don't know why, Rob, you get angry with a dead stick landing. You always come down, right? What's the problem?
<< I tried to get some flights in on Friday and the derned thing kept deadsticking....[>:]>>
I don't know why, Rob, you get angry with a dead stick landing. You always come down, right? What's the problem?
#4167
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: Barry Cazier
Rob Clement-RC...
The Saitos do spew out a bit of fuel. But, the fact that you keep deadsticking and you are spewing a lot of fuel makes me believe you are way to rich on the bottom end (screw that goes through the throttle lever). The Saitos come with that screw super rich. I mean...I turned mine in about 3 turns after my 40 minute break in. They will acutally run pretty good very rich, but sometimes you get deadsticks and your economy is very poor. I keep turning mine in until I'm certain it's a little lean and then back it out. If you haven't turned yours in at least 3 turns I'm betting you're still way rich. After I get my leaned out the economy increases about 30-40% and the deadsticks go away. And...as a bonus the sloppyness is less also.
I can only support 6 planes so I have to get rid of 1 or 2. I've already gave away my Harrier to a club member and I'm not sure what other one I'll get rid of. I am certain it won't be a UCD. No way I'm getting rid of one of them. Maybe I'll have to get the gear to support 7!??!?!? Either that or the Showtime will have to go.
Thanks
Barry
Rob Clement-RC...The Saitos do spew out a bit of fuel. But, the fact that you keep deadsticking and you are spewing a lot of fuel makes me believe you are way to rich on the bottom end (screw that goes through the throttle lever). The Saitos come with that screw super rich. I mean...I turned mine in about 3 turns after my 40 minute break in. They will acutally run pretty good very rich, but sometimes you get deadsticks and your economy is very poor. I keep turning mine in until I'm certain it's a little lean and then back it out. If you haven't turned yours in at least 3 turns I'm betting you're still way rich. After I get my leaned out the economy increases about 30-40% and the deadsticks go away. And...as a bonus the sloppyness is less also.
I can only support 6 planes so I have to get rid of 1 or 2. I've already gave away my Harrier to a club member and I'm not sure what other one I'll get rid of. I am certain it won't be a UCD. No way I'm getting rid of one of them. Maybe I'll have to get the gear to support 7!??!?!? Either that or the Showtime will have to go.
Thanks
Barry
If you've got an extra U.Stick you need to find a home for I know someone looking for one. Namely me.
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From: Idaho Falls,
ID
Rob Clement RC...I do have a Ultra Stick Lite. (120). I like it a lot. And it's the closest thing to a trainer I have. It flys so sweet and easy. It's huge. It will do upright flat spins. It's pretty fun in it's own right. I can even hover it, but it's not a pretty sight. I use it first thing in the spring for a while to get the fingers going and whenever I haven't flown in a while. I also use it when I just HAVE to fly and it's pretty windy. It handles the wind very well.
But, it would be one of my planes under consideration...so, if I decide to get rid of it maybe I'll send it your way.
The Saitos are easy to tune. You lean the bottom end a bit and your problems will go away. One other thing that many do is replace the stock glow plug with an OS: type F. Many claim that helps. I know I run the stock one until I replace it, then I go to the type F.
Good luck.
Thanks
Barry
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From: Auburn,
WA
Thanks Barry. Sounds neat about the 120.....
I'll do some fine tuning today on the Saito and tweak the low end needle. I think I allready have the F plug in there. I checked into the velocity stack and there are out of stock....[:@]
Where do you guys route the vent tube to? Or do you use any kind of tubing on the vent?

I'll do some fine tuning today on the Saito and tweak the low end needle. I think I allready have the F plug in there. I checked into the velocity stack and there are out of stock....[:@]
Where do you guys route the vent tube to? Or do you use any kind of tubing on the vent?
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From: Charleston, WV
I need a little advice. I am putting together the tail feathers on the UCD. The instructions say to epoxy the elevator stab in place. With the way it is designed, it would make a real mess sliding it through the epoxy. Will it hold up just wicking thin CA in, instead of epoxy. My first UCD was already built when I got it. Thanks
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From: West Palm Beach,
FL
Man, I've been reading and reading and reading this thread since the first page for 4 days now and I'm still only around page 80!! There is just a TON of info in here, but I'm to the point where I can't read anymore and just have to go ahead an ask some questions.
I'm still very new to the hobby - on my 1st plane still (Hangar9 P51 trainer), but most people say I've caught on pretty quick. Within my first couple weeks (solo'd 2nd day out) I was doing inverted circuits around the field, snap rolls and plenty of stupid things you shouldn't be doing with a warbird style plane but haven't crashed yet. Long story short, after four months or so of flying the P51 I'm ready to try something else and settled on the U-can-do 46.
I've read hundreds if not thousands of posts about engines in these things, but still need a little push in the right direction from more experienced folk. My goal at first will simply to get the thing flying, but once broken in I want to begin to learn hovering and 3D in the real world instead of the simulator. I bought a .51 TT based on the advice of the LHS, but after reading so much here it seems like it'll be underpowered for what I eventually want. No problem, as fate would have it someone basically gave me an H9 Twist the other day, so I can put the .51 TT in that with my radio / servo gear from the trainer as a backup.
Going back to the LHS, I had it in my mind I wanted to try a 4 stroke no matter what... Saito, here I come! Well, they had a .72, .91 or .100, but not the .82 I was hoping for. I settled for the .91 thinking it would be a much more versatile engine for other planes. Now I'm having a bunch of second thoughts. Did I go way overboard? Is this too much engine for someone on a 2nd plane? Should I take it back and exchange it for the .72? Also, what props do I need for break-in and then after that? Elevation here is about 10' above sea level and I bought 15% CoolPower 4stroke fuel (that's all the LHS had).
I *hate* having to buy things twice, so I usually spend way too much $$ (putting myself in trouble) but getting what I feel is best all around.
Please chime in on some of the other gear I plan on using - this is my first real ARF build:
Radio - JR 9303 Heli (had this a month now - love it. Plan on flying heli's in the future too) Will use the receiver it came with.
Battery - JR 2700MAH 4.8v
Servos - JR811's on everything but rudder / Hitech HS-5645MG on rudder
GP nylon / pinned hinges instead of the CA ones
All the remaining stock gear from GP
Misc questions:
1. What should I expect for flying time with the stock tank on a .91 saito? Should I get something bigger like an 11oz?
2. Where are some good resources for learning to tune 4-strokes?
3. CA hinges seem like they are harder to deal with than the small nylon pinned GP ones. Am I OK to use these or would it be better to stick with CA? I test fitted the GP ones in and while they do slide in with a little pressure, I think I'll need to trim some balsa material for a better fit or should they be "tight"? I plan on 30 min epoxy for them.
I'm pretty nervous about all this and need some thoughts either way.
Regards,
Wayne
I'm still very new to the hobby - on my 1st plane still (Hangar9 P51 trainer), but most people say I've caught on pretty quick. Within my first couple weeks (solo'd 2nd day out) I was doing inverted circuits around the field, snap rolls and plenty of stupid things you shouldn't be doing with a warbird style plane but haven't crashed yet. Long story short, after four months or so of flying the P51 I'm ready to try something else and settled on the U-can-do 46.
I've read hundreds if not thousands of posts about engines in these things, but still need a little push in the right direction from more experienced folk. My goal at first will simply to get the thing flying, but once broken in I want to begin to learn hovering and 3D in the real world instead of the simulator. I bought a .51 TT based on the advice of the LHS, but after reading so much here it seems like it'll be underpowered for what I eventually want. No problem, as fate would have it someone basically gave me an H9 Twist the other day, so I can put the .51 TT in that with my radio / servo gear from the trainer as a backup.
Going back to the LHS, I had it in my mind I wanted to try a 4 stroke no matter what... Saito, here I come! Well, they had a .72, .91 or .100, but not the .82 I was hoping for. I settled for the .91 thinking it would be a much more versatile engine for other planes. Now I'm having a bunch of second thoughts. Did I go way overboard? Is this too much engine for someone on a 2nd plane? Should I take it back and exchange it for the .72? Also, what props do I need for break-in and then after that? Elevation here is about 10' above sea level and I bought 15% CoolPower 4stroke fuel (that's all the LHS had).
I *hate* having to buy things twice, so I usually spend way too much $$ (putting myself in trouble) but getting what I feel is best all around.
Please chime in on some of the other gear I plan on using - this is my first real ARF build:
Radio - JR 9303 Heli (had this a month now - love it. Plan on flying heli's in the future too) Will use the receiver it came with.
Battery - JR 2700MAH 4.8v
Servos - JR811's on everything but rudder / Hitech HS-5645MG on rudder
GP nylon / pinned hinges instead of the CA ones
All the remaining stock gear from GP
Misc questions:
1. What should I expect for flying time with the stock tank on a .91 saito? Should I get something bigger like an 11oz?
2. Where are some good resources for learning to tune 4-strokes?
3. CA hinges seem like they are harder to deal with than the small nylon pinned GP ones. Am I OK to use these or would it be better to stick with CA? I test fitted the GP ones in and while they do slide in with a little pressure, I think I'll need to trim some balsa material for a better fit or should they be "tight"? I plan on 30 min epoxy for them.
I'm pretty nervous about all this and need some thoughts either way.
Regards,
Wayne
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From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
Hey Rob... Before my "Do" headed for it's maker... I ran the vent off of the 100
all the way down to the wheel... Don't know if all the Saito's all like the 100, but
they do like to cover everything with my wasted fuel[&o]... It's seemed to work
well, with no known problems... And it worked great for keeping the "Do" cleaner
I think Barry hit it, with it running a bit rich.......
all the way down to the wheel... Don't know if all the Saito's all like the 100, but
they do like to cover everything with my wasted fuel[&o]... It's seemed to work
well, with no known problems... And it worked great for keeping the "Do" cleaner
I think Barry hit it, with it running a bit rich.......
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From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
CrashBurn69... I know people that use CA for the tail feathers, and has had no
problems... But IMO... For hi stress areas I use 30min epoxy.. I just feel safer
It all cleans good with pre-readied paper towels and alcohol... The main thing
here is DO NOT score the bulsa when removing the covering....
sl1200mk2.... The 91 should do good, The 82 would have had about the same
power with less weight.... IMO I would not go to the 72... Up is better:-)
Your servos seems good, maybe over kill on the rudder... I was using standard
Hitec BB servos(57oz) on all but the rudder 83oz on 6v.. It did all that I wanted
to do...
I do not do too good on fuel time.. Lot's of deadsticks.... But when I was running
the S-100 on mine I was getting over 12mins with the 10oz tank.... But most my
flying was with low throttle use.
The nose of the "D0" is a bit small.. The 10oz just fit's without mods... Guess you
could find taller tanks that would fit.. But it would have to be fitted in... If I
remember correctly some of the earlier "Do's" came with 8oz tanks???? At least
my "used" "Do" had an 8oz.. And the member I got it from said that's want came
with the plane.... After installing the S-100 I put the 10oz tank in....
problems... But IMO... For hi stress areas I use 30min epoxy.. I just feel safer
It all cleans good with pre-readied paper towels and alcohol... The main thing
here is DO NOT score the bulsa when removing the covering....
sl1200mk2.... The 91 should do good, The 82 would have had about the same
power with less weight.... IMO I would not go to the 72... Up is better:-)
Your servos seems good, maybe over kill on the rudder... I was using standard
Hitec BB servos(57oz) on all but the rudder 83oz on 6v.. It did all that I wanted
to do...
I do not do too good on fuel time.. Lot's of deadsticks.... But when I was running
the S-100 on mine I was getting over 12mins with the 10oz tank.... But most my
flying was with low throttle use.
The nose of the "D0" is a bit small.. The 10oz just fit's without mods... Guess you
could find taller tanks that would fit.. But it would have to be fitted in... If I
remember correctly some of the earlier "Do's" came with 8oz tanks???? At least
my "used" "Do" had an 8oz.. And the member I got it from said that's want came
with the plane.... After installing the S-100 I put the 10oz tank in....
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: raideron
Hey Rob... Before my "Do" headed for it's maker... I ran the vent off of the 100
all the way down to the wheel... Don't know if all the Saito's all like the 100, but
they do like to cover everything with my wasted fuel[&o]... It's seemed to work
well, with no known problems... And it worked great for keeping the "Do" cleaner
I think Barry hit it, with it running a bit rich.......
Hey Rob... Before my "Do" headed for it's maker... I ran the vent off of the 100
all the way down to the wheel... Don't know if all the Saito's all like the 100, but
they do like to cover everything with my wasted fuel[&o]... It's seemed to work
well, with no known problems... And it worked great for keeping the "Do" cleaner
I think Barry hit it, with it running a bit rich.......
[X(]
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From: Auburn,
WA
sl1200mk2 Hey Wayne, Welcome to the U Can Do thread. You have lots of questions. I'm sure there are lots of guys here that will help out. I think the 91 should work fine for the Do. I wouldn't even consider a 72 for it, maybe for something else. There's guys on here that use the 100 on the 46. Also the 15% you have should be fine.
I've never used pinned hinges but have had real good luck with CA hinges. I've heard that you can install pinned hinges with toothpick through them to keep them from pulling out. Let us know if there's other info you need.
I've never used pinned hinges but have had real good luck with CA hinges. I've heard that you can install pinned hinges with toothpick through them to keep them from pulling out. Let us know if there's other info you need.


