Hangar 9 Twist 3D
#26
Just checked mine out to for any shaking/broken pieces... I found NOTHING wrong with mine!! Yay
The wing seems to fit nicely too! It looks beautiful!!!

The wing seems to fit nicely too! It looks beautiful!!!
#27
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From: Prattville, AL
Robert,
I have just heard a lot about it saying that that is a good .46 prop for 3D type stuff. I think it will help some, the throttle was hard to get set right when I was attempting to hover it with the 11x6, it was almost like it was too sensetive. I'm thinking that a lower pitch prop will help with that.
I think the .56 will do fine on it. I know it will fly it fine, it should hover it and stuff too(if you are into that). Besides, if you don't like it, it would be an easy to change the engine.
Alan
I have just heard a lot about it saying that that is a good .46 prop for 3D type stuff. I think it will help some, the throttle was hard to get set right when I was attempting to hover it with the 11x6, it was almost like it was too sensetive. I'm thinking that a lower pitch prop will help with that.
I think the .56 will do fine on it. I know it will fly it fine, it should hover it and stuff too(if you are into that). Besides, if you don't like it, it would be an easy to change the engine.
Alan
#28
Bama..Thanks for the information so far! Do you have any building tips on the twist? I will start mine tonight.
I was looking at the elevator Joiner wire instructions,
and thinking about how to make sure that the elevators will be straight.
I can never drill holes with that much precision. Any problems with this?
Thanks
Frank
I was looking at the elevator Joiner wire instructions,
and thinking about how to make sure that the elevators will be straight.
I can never drill holes with that much precision. Any problems with this?
Thanks
Frank
#29
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From: An Iceburg in, ANTARCTICA
ORIGINAL: Cornduster04
I was looking at the elevator Joiner wire instructions,
and thinking about how to make sure that the elevators will be straight.
I can never drill holes with that much precision. Any problems with this?
Thanks
Frank
I was looking at the elevator Joiner wire instructions,
and thinking about how to make sure that the elevators will be straight.
I can never drill holes with that much precision. Any problems with this?
Thanks
Frank
The holes are pre-drilled, and in my arf they were dead-on-straight.
Definately check them before gluing though.
#30
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
I agree with P51. The holes are pre drilled and line up very well. I did have to make a minor adjustment to get the elevator halves level, but all it required was test fitting and making a very slight bend in the joiner wire. The vertical stab alignment was right on with no adjustment required.
Thanks for the explanation on the prop Bama. I was thinking of using a lower pitch prop myself but I wasn't going to go over 11" on diameter so I can keep my ground clearance (Just in case the landing gets a little rough [:@]). Let us know how the new prop works.
Thanks for the explanation on the prop Bama. I was thinking of using a lower pitch prop myself but I wasn't going to go over 11" on diameter so I can keep my ground clearance (Just in case the landing gets a little rough [:@]). Let us know how the new prop works.
#31
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From: Prattville, AL
Cornduster,
The others got the elevator question for you, I didn't even have to tweek mine, but like Robert said it would be easy to do if it was needed. I thought that was a nice touch having those already drilled, I always have to tweek them to get it just right after I drill them.
I didn't have any problems with the assembly. I don't think you will either if you have put one or two arfs together. This one was no different than any of the others. I didn't make any modifications or anything. I think everything in the box was pretty good. It went together pretty fast too. I installed all the servos, engine, hooked up everything,and glued the tail on in one evening. Then finished up the tail hinging, linkages, and balancing the next evening.
Alan
The others got the elevator question for you, I didn't even have to tweek mine, but like Robert said it would be easy to do if it was needed. I thought that was a nice touch having those already drilled, I always have to tweek them to get it just right after I drill them.
I didn't have any problems with the assembly. I don't think you will either if you have put one or two arfs together. This one was no different than any of the others. I didn't make any modifications or anything. I think everything in the box was pretty good. It went together pretty fast too. I installed all the servos, engine, hooked up everything,and glued the tail on in one evening. Then finished up the tail hinging, linkages, and balancing the next evening.
Alan
#32
Thanks everyone for your replies! I opened up the box to inspect to make sure nothing was broken but didn't look close enough at details like pre drilled holes. I always read the manuals 2 or 3 times over just so I am familiar with the assembly. Sometimes the dumbest things bite me.
I have built about 6 ARF's and this is almost the easiest I have seen (besides my Hangar 9 Advanced 40).
I bought a different tail wheel so I will definitely change that, I do not like the ones that attach to the rudder,
I have broken tail wheels in my grass field before and to replace them is a chore.
I have built about 6 ARF's and this is almost the easiest I have seen (besides my Hangar 9 Advanced 40).
I bought a different tail wheel so I will definitely change that, I do not like the ones that attach to the rudder,
I have broken tail wheels in my grass field before and to replace them is a chore.
#33
cornduster, what kind of tail wheel did you buy? Are you saying that the mounting is different? I would be interested in some pics or something because I will be flying mine mostly from grass.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#34
The Tail wheel bracket I buy from LHS is from Sullivan. Mounts on the bottom of the fuse and then has a spring that is attached
to the underside of the rudder.
There is also a spring on the wheel bracket for absorbing those bumps if you need to.
I usually put a small piece of plywood on the bottom of the fuse before I mount the tail wheel bracket. I like this
set up because if it bends I can take it off and straighten it out easily or replace it. Costs about 6 bucks.
I will be happy to send you a pic when I get it mounted. Working on the elevators right now.
I am a slow builder, 4 hours into this and don't have the rudder or elevators mounted yet. I did have to make
the servo holes bigger so that took some time.
Cheers!
to the underside of the rudder.
There is also a spring on the wheel bracket for absorbing those bumps if you need to.
I usually put a small piece of plywood on the bottom of the fuse before I mount the tail wheel bracket. I like this
set up because if it bends I can take it off and straighten it out easily or replace it. Costs about 6 bucks.
I will be happy to send you a pic when I get it mounted. Working on the elevators right now.
I am a slow builder, 4 hours into this and don't have the rudder or elevators mounted yet. I did have to make
the servo holes bigger so that took some time.
Cheers!
#35
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From: Prattville, AL
Hey guys,
I flew it again a few times yesterday afternoon(Friday) and I liked it even better with the new prop.(APC 12.25x3.75) I was afraid that it would be too much prop, but the little Evo seems to spin it nearly the same as the 11x6. It seemed to improve the vertical performance a good bit. I didn't tach it or anything but I think that is what i am going to run on it. By the way, for anyone using this engine I took the baffle out of the muffler. I didn't even run it with it in there so I can't tell you how many rpm's you will gain, but it appears to be very restrictive. I recommend this to anyone using this engine. Ya'll need to hurry up and get these things finished, they are a blast!!
Alan
I flew it again a few times yesterday afternoon(Friday) and I liked it even better with the new prop.(APC 12.25x3.75) I was afraid that it would be too much prop, but the little Evo seems to spin it nearly the same as the 11x6. It seemed to improve the vertical performance a good bit. I didn't tach it or anything but I think that is what i am going to run on it. By the way, for anyone using this engine I took the baffle out of the muffler. I didn't even run it with it in there so I can't tell you how many rpm's you will gain, but it appears to be very restrictive. I recommend this to anyone using this engine. Ya'll need to hurry up and get these things finished, they are a blast!!
Alan
#36
Very Cool Bama!!!!!
I stayed up until 3am and worked on mine so I am on schedule for a Sunday first flight. Mounting all the hardware now.
She is really fun to put together.
I stayed up until 3am and worked on mine so I am on schedule for a Sunday first flight. Mounting all the hardware now.
She is really fun to put together.
#37
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From: Wingina,
VA
I got to work on mine again last night. Got the ailerons mounted along with the horns. All I need to do now is drill and mount the servos and the wing is done. RVator advised me to dry fit the aileron servos, line up the horns and mark for the horns before actually glueing the ailerons on. That way you can lay the aileron flat on the table to install the horn screw. They're hard to get in once it's on the plane. I did it that way and it was better. Plus drilling the marked holes with a small drill press assured the holes were straight. I too had to enlarge the servo holes just a tiny bit. I'm hoping to get mine ready for next week end. May have to use the OS 46FX.
#38
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From: Los Angeles,
CA
I got mine together last night. Some problems with the hardware. The aileron linkages were too short, the nylon wing bolt was mis threaded, two of the kwiklinks broke, seemed very brittle, replaced all with parts from my LHS. Atypical for first run kits, as I have seen
Have a OS FX 46, Hitecs all around. Came out tail heavy, had to add 2 ounces to the nose. 5 lbs 6 oz total weight.
Good looking plane, over all should be a good one. Will fly it tomorrow.
Have a OS FX 46, Hitecs all around. Came out tail heavy, had to add 2 ounces to the nose. 5 lbs 6 oz total weight.
Good looking plane, over all should be a good one. Will fly it tomorrow.
#39
Getting windy here in Nebraska
I ended up putting my Thunder Tiger Pro 46 in mine. Was going to put the OS FX 46 but I thought
I would try this out the TT 46 for fun! I mounted the engine as far forward as I could for the weight and
without having to cut any wood for the muffler. The TT 46 has a swooped back needle valve so cut a
very small notch didn't take much wood out for that. I had to use different engine mount bolts,the ones
that came with the kit were to big for this engine. I like the hex bolts with locking nuts better anyways.
I had some extra that needed a plane to live on!
I have futaba 3003 servos, I had to to trim the servos holes a bit but not very mcuh and I did all of that before
putting the Twist together.
Contol horns and push rods are next.
Be back later guys!
I ended up putting my Thunder Tiger Pro 46 in mine. Was going to put the OS FX 46 but I thought
I would try this out the TT 46 for fun! I mounted the engine as far forward as I could for the weight and
without having to cut any wood for the muffler. The TT 46 has a swooped back needle valve so cut a
very small notch didn't take much wood out for that. I had to use different engine mount bolts,the ones
that came with the kit were to big for this engine. I like the hex bolts with locking nuts better anyways.
I had some extra that needed a plane to live on!
I have futaba 3003 servos, I had to to trim the servos holes a bit but not very mcuh and I did all of that before
putting the Twist together.
Contol horns and push rods are next.
Be back later guys!
#40

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From: Jackson, MI
I got mine a few days ago . I've studied the directions . Seems like a no-brainer . I'm running a 72/4/stroke O.S. engine . Stupid engine kept stalling on my not so Funtana . I bought a fuel pump that will run off the crankcase .That should help . Looks like a way cool plane , especially for the price .
#43
Thin CA will create a thread rather than just wood. I will usally drop thin CA in the hole drive the screw in and then back out to create the thread. May help from the screw losing from vibration and the torque from the servos moving the contol surfaces.
On the control horns, it just makes the wood stronger.
just my 2 cents
I did find on the twist had shorter push rods both for my engine and the elevator. Good thing I had some extra laying around.
No flying today in Nebraska, Thunder storm warning winds about 30mph
On the control horns, it just makes the wood stronger.
just my 2 cents
I did find on the twist had shorter push rods both for my engine and the elevator. Good thing I had some extra laying around.
No flying today in Nebraska, Thunder storm warning winds about 30mph
#44
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From: Macho Grande, KS
My order from Horizon came in today MINUS the plane. A mixup in the shipping dept. showed "out of stock" on my invoice. After receiving an e-mail from them to see if I still wanted the plane, I called back to confirm the order and mailed off the M.O. Within 2 days my plane was lost.
Now I've only to read flight reports here till a replacement arrives. Sad day in Black Rock.
Now I've only to read flight reports here till a replacement arrives. Sad day in Black Rock.
#45
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From: Grinnell ,
IA
ORIGINAL: Bearair
If anyone has mounted a Saito 72, Please tell us how you did it and how you ran the throttle linkage. Did you reverse the carb, etc. thanks in advance.
If anyone has mounted a Saito 72, Please tell us how you did it and how you ran the throttle linkage. Did you reverse the carb, etc. thanks in advance.
Anyway "SAY-TOE" 72s are for profiles.............
Ron
#46
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From: Wingina,
VA
Got to work on mine today. Finished the rudder and elevator and wheel wire all glued up. Mounted the aileron servos and almost got them hooked up before I had to quit. The aileron rods were a bit short for my Futaba 3004's too but I'm trying them anyway. I gave up the FA 72 the bidding went too high for me. Guess I'll use the OS 46 FX. I set the wing and canopy on it and it really looks cool. I'm gonna use screws to hold on the canopy like the photo on the box shows it. I don't have any glue anyway. Hope to get mine going this sunday. Now, does everyone think the landing gear is strong enough? Looking inside the plane, the mount looks fairly strong and has blind bollts. The gear itself looks a bit light though.
#47
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
I put the first flight on mine yesterday and had so much fun I had to go back today. I was able to get my Saito .56 mounted with a 12x4 prop and it flies fine. It hovers great even with the small engine. It just doesn't pull out with as much authority as a .72 would but I like this combination so well I'm not changing it. I had a good bit of trouble with the throttle linkage as some of you have mentioned but after mounting the engine, I found that the carb will close even though the horn is just about touching the firewall. I used a z-bend on the carb horn instead of a clevis to get the clearance I needed. I also had to change the nylon bolt for the wing as it wouldn't tighten up enough for my liking. As for the landing gear, I don't see anything wrong with it. This plane lands so slow and easy I don't think you will have any problems.
#48
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
Is everyone leaving the firewall as is. I'm putting a YS .63 in mine and I don't like the look of the firewall, not even a scrap of tri stock anywhere around it. How does it balance out with the 4-strokes ?
#49
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From: Prattville, AL
Hey Robert,
This little plane is a blast to fly. I did the same thing, I had to go back the next day and fly some more too. Where did your CG end up with the .56? I am thinking of sticking a little weight on the front of mine to see if I like it better that way.
Alan
This little plane is a blast to fly. I did the same thing, I had to go back the next day and fly some more too. Where did your CG end up with the .56? I am thinking of sticking a little weight on the front of mine to see if I like it better that way.
Alan


