1st 2 pictures are from the www.vqmodel.com site. Shows only 2 models of struts. The 3rd picture is from www.hobbypeople.net website and shows 7 models!!! What is it? 2 models or 7 available? Can the smallest 1 of 2 from VQ model be cut down to 5 inches? The main landing gear on my T-28 is 5 inches. Any answers?

You can cut off the tops to fit. The Robarts are the same way. You might have to drill and re-tap the set screws that hold the strut to the wire. Had to on the Robarts.

The trouble I see with the smaller strut is it will not accept the wheels that came with the model, much less larger ones and should work with the wire size on the model. The 120 size strut will but then needs a larger wire diameter. Either adds a lot of weight unless you can save a similar amount of weight by the wire you remove.

I'd also think twice the shock travel would be beneficial too.

Regards,

Clay

I was excited by the notion of finishing it up today but no dice. Its going to need approximately 4 ounces of lead in the tail to balance to the 4 1/8" back from the leading edge CG! I've also had to relocate the receiver battery behind the servos so I'll need to epoxy in some dams to secure that.

Anyone else have to do anything this severe to balance. I know I'll have to laterally balance as well but will wait to see how these changes set in before addressing that...again.

[:@]

I have my BH T-28 almost done except for the cowl. I bought the plane so I could make use of a 2 stroke Tower 61 I had laying around. I have wondered about adding a baffle to the nose to improve cooling. Is this necessary? What have you others done when using a 2 stroke with this model?

I used a .91 O.S. 4-stroke. Added 1.75 oz. to tail for C.G. Seemed to fly tail-heavy. Removed weights. Flys fine. Don't know where the C.G. is now.

I put a baffle in my plane. During one re-assembly, I forgot to put it back in. Ran 20 degrees cooler without the baffle.

Clay,

I would be suspect of your balance and would get a couple other opinions. The combo of the battery pack and added weight to the rear might be too much. I prefer a nose heavy plane and then I know there will not be a snap on take off, the result of a tail heavy conditiion! I'd suggest you take it out and get that opinion before the maiden. Many of us will do that. Just recently we found a screw missing on the servo arm, elevator no less, of an experienced pilot. He was a little red faced but thankful for our pre-flight. A simple oversight but maybe saved his plane.

John

John,

Using a balancer after moving the battery pack it took that much weight on the tail to balance the plane according to the manual...105mm behind the leading edge and next to the fuselage. Did you (and others) find the manual's cg point to be in error?

Hope not because I've already melted the lead, slit the tail and epoxied them in. Figured I could always had a weighted spinner if need be but was going to balance to the spec in the manual to start out.

I am guessing as to the actual weight of the lead. I just melted a wheel weight in a spoon and kept at it until I brought the plane into balance. It took two partial tablespoons to do it!

Could it be that the Magnum 91 4-stroke is heavier than the other engines?


Clay

Clay,

I just compared your Magnum to my OS LA 65 and you are 3.5 oz heavier! I did use a balancer at the 105mm and thought I was right on with the battery to the rear of the servo tray...wrong which is what I found on the first attempted take off but managed to save it. It's very difficult to advise you or anyone on these threads because of the variables, battery size's , rx's etc. I can only tell you my experiance and that's why I say, get some other opinions when you have the plane there in front of them. Good luck!

JOHN

Clay, I agree with John, not sure why you needed the extra weight. My Original Saito 80 is close in weight to you 91 and I balanced on the mark with the batt under the servo's.

I also like to have my planes a bit nose heavy for initial flights so do tend to balance nose down. Tail heavy planes just don't fly well. With the big nose on this plane it will have tendency to slow quickly especially if you don't have adequate air flow out the bottom of the cowl. All this can add to a real anxious landing.

On you initial takeoff don't be in a hurry to lift off. Let it go on it's own and if the tail really squats, chop the power and let her settle back down.

JimO

Well, just to be cautious I moved the battery in front of the servos which puts the CG at slightly nose heavy. Have to put nearly an ounce in the port wing for lateral balance as well. I reckon the Mag 91 4-stroke is just a heavy booger with the head jutting out to starbord along with that Fults dual-strut nose gear which is considerably heavier than the stock gear hanging off the front. Thank goodness the plane was already very light because now its probably a "normal" flight weight.

Atleast after the epoxy dries I can put it together and start setting the control throws.

Man I'll be happy when this baby is done,

Clay

I agree with John and Jim. Clay, if you recall I have the Magnum 91 2 Stroke. My electronics and battery is the Spektrum Channel Receiver and the Spetrum Battery. Pretty much standard size 4 Cell type battery. It is sitting right is front of the servo tray. I had to add absolutely no weight at all and the plane is just a tad nose heavy. I would check to make sure you are checking the balance in the right spot.

I double checked last night. Using one of these


I set the mark at 105 mm (approx 4 1/8") back from the leading edge right next to the fuselage. It balances like the model illustrated above.

I do note that the balance point is very tight when compared to my trainer. I mean that it really falls off if not balanced whereas my trainer tended to sag a little on each side as I approached the balance point.

Please let me know if I've done something wrong.

Also, did everyone use the recommended control throws per the book?

Thanks for all the guidance guys!

Clay

Clay you are OK on the setup for the balance. The only thing I can think of is the addition of the Fults Nose gear. I know they are a bit heavier than the norm, 4 oz seems like a lot though.

As for the control throws, I set mine at full on high rate and cut it back to about 60% on low. On the initial take off I used the low rates and switched to high once in the air and basically trimmed out. It all depends on you on style of flying and how you set up you throws and dual rates. I have been playing with the expo on high rates to soften out the throws.

Get her in the air, you will love her after the first flight and your knees stop shaking

Jim

I just got one of these and will get it going this week - going to use a Magnum 80. One thing i learned a long time ago, don't add tailweight until after the test flying, unless it's grossly off. Adjust battery first, weight later if needed. Also keep in mind that most of these "Far East" ARF's are not tested much if at all before selling to us "rich dumb" Americans - at least that's how they look at it.

Warning! Critical weak glue joint[:@]. The tabs that the servos mount to on the wing servo hatches are very poorly glued. Hot glue was used after the the tab was inserted in the hatch. One of mine broke loose when I touched it and the others all came out with little pressure. I used 30 min epoxy to glue them back in after cleaning off the hot glue. I suggest you check those joints or you might find your servos coming loose in flight[>:].

Bruce

landeck-I noticed the same thing in assembly of my BH T28 and did the same as you suggested.

Hey guys
I have been slowly assembling my T 28 Trojan. Have the radio equipment installed (temporarily until I check CG) and put on the decals. Still have the fuel tank to install as well. I am going to use a 2 line system with a Dubro fueling valve. Wondering where the best spot to mount this might be.
Also, I have to decide on what to do with the exhaust, before I finish off the cowl. Anyone know where I could get a shorter 12mm nipple (manifold) so the entire muffler can stay within the cowl.
Also, I have these decals left over. Looking over my manual, I don't see them on the plane anywhere. Any ideas?
Cheers

I have my fuel filler mounted on the fire wall even with the carb. I fashioned a mount using aluminum angle and drilled a hole in the cowl just large enough for the fuel filler to have the head flush with the cowl. This way al the lines are connected and don't have to be removed when taking off the cowl. Saito makes a couple of different nipples for their engines. I have a couple of the older muffler exhausts so was not a problem for the exit. You could also consider a flex pipe and mount the muffler so the exhaust points down.

I didn't use all the decals so not sure where the extra you have go.

JimO

How about a Turboheader from RC Specialties? It'll also give you a couple hundred more rpm on the top end.

DHC-2fan,

How about something like this to help with your muffler solution.? Of course, it would be inverted.

Jim

I put one of the extra D-34's on one of my flaps - port-bottom side. When surfing the net for T-38 pics I noted a few where an oncoming plane with full flaps would display their number readable to someone underneath an in front of the plane.

Clay

Ground crew and Landing Signal Officer. THe 28 was the primary trainer for carrier landings back in the 60's and 70's. Been there and done that.

JimO

Hmmm very interesting. I didn't realize they had numbers on the flaps. Now I am goin gto have to look at the other planes and see if they still do it.