Comp ARF Flash update
#426
I tried a couple different things with the fuse tank. It was giving me the same problem. I ended up putting a felt clunk on it and keeping the header tank AND a UAT. This gives me about 6 1/2 minutes flying with a P80. I'm thinking of adding the wing tank, though. Sometimes you just don't wanna come down!
#427

My Flash have hopper,fuselage,wingtank.And after 7 min of flying the wingtank is empty and the fuselage-tank is at 1/3 and the hopper is full (all Composite tanks that came with the model).Wingtank with standard clunk that feed the fuselage-tank that have an felt-clunk that feed the hopper that have a felt clunk also.No air or any problems with.All conections are Festo.
#428
If you ever lose the felt clunk, or throw it away accidentally like I did, you can pick them up at lawnmower repair shops for about $5 each. Nice to know!
#430

Hello
Here are some pictures of my Flash with JetCat P-120.The pictures are from last Sunday where the 10+ flights were made.No gear or any heat problems.Full ducting with naca cuts.[8D]
Here are some pictures of my Flash with JetCat P-120.The pictures are from last Sunday where the 10+ flights were made.No gear or any heat problems.Full ducting with naca cuts.[8D]
#431
Niclas, did you use any heat blanket or just as comp recommend, did you also use the supplied thrust tube. I have made the naca cuts and was wondering weather to use a blanket [sm=72_72.gif] some seem to have heat probs and other not.
#432
Just to let you know I have just past 50 flights with my flash and I have absolutely no heat issues. I am using the standard pipe and no heat blanket.
Also just to complete the picture the turbine is a AMT NL Mercury HP.
Geoff.
Also just to complete the picture the turbine is a AMT NL Mercury HP.
Geoff.
#433
ORIGINAL: NICLAS
Hello
Here are some pictures of my Flash with JetCat P-120.The pictures are from last Sunday where the 10+ flights were made.No gear or any heat problems.Full ducting with naca cuts.[8D]
Hello
Here are some pictures of my Flash with JetCat P-120.The pictures are from last Sunday where the 10+ flights were made.No gear or any heat problems.Full ducting with naca cuts.[8D]
#434
I am wondering perhaps those that are having heat problems may possibly not have there turbine centered exactly down the pipe, Just thinking outloud, yes also the warmer countrys aren't going to help.
#435
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From: Wooburn Green, UNITED KINGDOM
Mart1,
In my opinion there is no need to protect against heat build up, especially here in the UK, with low ambient temps. I have a P120 in my Flash with NASA ducts cut out as per the manual and have had no issues. The only advice I can offer is to cut a small amount of heat blanket and place it at the bottom of the outer tube where the tailplane meets it. There is evidence on mine that the outer pipe is warm and in such close proximity to the tailplane skin it is transferring to that skin, however this is very slight.
Great plane - have fun.
Rob H
In my opinion there is no need to protect against heat build up, especially here in the UK, with low ambient temps. I have a P120 in my Flash with NASA ducts cut out as per the manual and have had no issues. The only advice I can offer is to cut a small amount of heat blanket and place it at the bottom of the outer tube where the tailplane meets it. There is evidence on mine that the outer pipe is warm and in such close proximity to the tailplane skin it is transferring to that skin, however this is very slight.
Great plane - have fun.
Rob H
#437

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From: wilmington, DE
I have no heating issues with my Flash either, using a WREN SuperSport + a Wren thrust tube + the full bypass system + the 2 recommended NACA ports, all is well when I land!
#438
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From: Swindon, UNITED KINGDOM
NICLAS, again, I have not used a heat blanket. But like yourself, I was a bit concerned about the stories I have heard on RCU,regarding the heat issues.
I can only say for peice of mind, I did a few full power checks before flying. And if it's going to get hot, it will do it on the ground. Currently I have had about 15 flights,with a P120, and no problems yet.
One thing I forgot to mention. Before I put my engine in, I noticed it was flameing on start up. This was cured by reducing start up pump voltage. Always worth checking I guess.
I can only say for peice of mind, I did a few full power checks before flying. And if it's going to get hot, it will do it on the ground. Currently I have had about 15 flights,with a P120, and no problems yet.
One thing I forgot to mention. Before I put my engine in, I noticed it was flameing on start up. This was cured by reducing start up pump voltage. Always worth checking I guess.
#439

Hello
No I haven´t noticed any heat problems.I was very carefull that the elevator cables don´t touch the tube.I used the silver foil-tape that were in the kit.No after 10+ flights no sign of heat problem on the carbon bypass either.The only thing that are a shame is that you won´t get more than 9.6 kg of thrust out of a P-120 with the org.ducting.
No I haven´t noticed any heat problems.I was very carefull that the elevator cables don´t touch the tube.I used the silver foil-tape that were in the kit.No after 10+ flights no sign of heat problem on the carbon bypass either.The only thing that are a shame is that you won´t get more than 9.6 kg of thrust out of a P-120 with the org.ducting.
#440
Thread Starter

Guys
My Flash with P120 was the first in the world with full ducting, since July 2006 when I test flew it, I'm over the 100 flights and also have no issues-I think people are not putting the openings in the lower rear fuselage-which must be done to allow air into the outer tube.
Dave Wilshere
My Flash with P120 was the first in the world with full ducting, since July 2006 when I test flew it, I'm over the 100 flights and also have no issues-I think people are not putting the openings in the lower rear fuselage-which must be done to allow air into the outer tube.
Dave Wilshere
#441
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From: stourbridge,
BC, UNITED KINGDOM
No issues here running p80 with full bypass , vents in bottom ,just coated the surface with BVM paint and foil over leads 'just in case', As Ian says running on the ground is worse case ,just seems to be warn to the touch.I did remove tailplane to have a look but all ok.
#443

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From: wilmington, DE
I don't have them on mine either since I had pin breaking issues flying off of our grass field. Now I have a set of DREAMWORKS trainlng link struts on and they won't fit as specified by CARF. I don't recomment them for grass field use anyway
#444
Has anyone tried fixing the front strut cover to the strut itself. I know that when i'm traveling I worry that the front plate might get snagged by something. I'm tired of using tape to hold it up. A friend suggested zip tying it to the balsa block and around the oleo. Has anyone done this?
#446
Every Flash that I have finished for people has been modified on the nose gear door.
It's a very simple mod - bond a small STEEL washer to the inside face of the door, just off to one side.
Then make a small plate /bracket from the scrap Balsa / Glass sheet and bond a small magnet into it.
This is now fixed to the inside rear edge of the opening
Now when the door is shut, it is held closed by the magnet, but is easily opened when the leg is extended.
No elastic bands to brake or any need for tape.
modtron
Oxford UK
It's a very simple mod - bond a small STEEL washer to the inside face of the door, just off to one side.
Then make a small plate /bracket from the scrap Balsa / Glass sheet and bond a small magnet into it.
This is now fixed to the inside rear edge of the opening
Now when the door is shut, it is held closed by the magnet, but is easily opened when the leg is extended.
No elastic bands to brake or any need for tape.
modtron
Oxford UK
#447
ORIGINAL: modtron
Every Flash that I have finished for people has been modified on the nose gear door.
It's a very simple mod - bond a small STEEL washer to the inside face of the door, just off to one side.
Then make a small plate /bracket from the scrap Balsa / Glass sheet and bond a small magnet into it.
This is now fixed to the inside rear edge of the opening
Now when the door is shut, it is held closed by the magnet, but is easily opened when the leg is extended.
No elastic bands to brake or any need for tape.
modtron
Oxford UK
Every Flash that I have finished for people has been modified on the nose gear door.
It's a very simple mod - bond a small STEEL washer to the inside face of the door, just off to one side.
Then make a small plate /bracket from the scrap Balsa / Glass sheet and bond a small magnet into it.
This is now fixed to the inside rear edge of the opening
Now when the door is shut, it is held closed by the magnet, but is easily opened when the leg is extended.
No elastic bands to brake or any need for tape.
modtron
Oxford UK
#449
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From: Redditch, , UNITED KINGDOM
roughly 3.5l i made my wing tank only took a couple of hours no pics of mine as they are installed think there aree pics on the comp web site
#450
Hi,
Main tank is in the fusealage and holds 2.3Litres(may be 2 litres)
Secondary, optional, wing tank holds 1 litre.
So if you just use the fusealge tank then its 2.3L otheriwse it 3.3L with both tanks.
Can't post any pictures at the moment, If nothing else appears then I will post some later this afternoon.
Geoff.
Edit: On second thoughts I am sure its 2.3 Litres for the main tank.
Edit again: goto http://www.composite-arf.com.hk/ar/Product?671000 and click on spare parts and you can see both the fuselage and wing tank.
Main tank is in the fusealage and holds 2.3Litres(may be 2 litres)
Secondary, optional, wing tank holds 1 litre.
So if you just use the fusealge tank then its 2.3L otheriwse it 3.3L with both tanks.
Can't post any pictures at the moment, If nothing else appears then I will post some later this afternoon.
Geoff.
Edit: On second thoughts I am sure its 2.3 Litres for the main tank.
Edit again: goto http://www.composite-arf.com.hk/ar/Product?671000 and click on spare parts and you can see both the fuselage and wing tank.


