KingTech K-80
#651
ORIGINAL: Tip22v
SNIP>how do I get the 4mm tubing onto the fuel filter nipples that are much larger than 4mm? The manual says to heat up the ends of the tubing but that still seems like quite a stretch.
Regards,
Tom
SNIP>how do I get the 4mm tubing onto the fuel filter nipples that are much larger than 4mm? The manual says to heat up the ends of the tubing but that still seems like quite a stretch.
Regards,
Tom
Greg
#652
ORIGINAL: jetflyr
I have found that the easiest way is to take a pair of fine-tipped needle nose pliers and put them inside the tubing, stretch, move it further in and stretch then slide it over the nipple. Simple, fast and you can't burn yourself.
Greg
ORIGINAL: Tip22v
SNIP>how do I get the 4mm tubing onto the fuel filter nipples that are much larger than 4mm? The manual says to heat up the ends of the tubing but that still seems like quite a stretch.
Regards,
Tom
SNIP>how do I get the 4mm tubing onto the fuel filter nipples that are much larger than 4mm? The manual says to heat up the ends of the tubing but that still seems like quite a stretch.
Regards,
Tom
Greg
I'll second that! Works like a champ.
I refined the drawing a bit more to help with a little confusion
Mike
#653

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From: Maple Grove,
MN
Hey guys,
I'm wondering if anyone can give me some insight to a idle problem I'm having with my K80E (i'm pretty sure it was self induced).
Here is the history....
I have over 5 hours on the engine now and around 20 flights with no problems. Recently I burned out a plug on start up and changed my glow value from 32 to 21. I ran a few test starts after and everything seemed fine. When I went out to the field, I noticed the engine would hang on start up just over 20K rpm, so the next day we decided to increase the PUMP RAMP from 6 to 8.
Video of hung start: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAnIo48Nu5c&feature=related[/youtube]
That seemed to correct the problem but I noticed that the PW value at idle jumped from around 100 to the 130's. So today i backed the PUMP RAMP down to 7 and increased the glow value to 26, and got this result:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOigV2Q1x-M[/youtube]
I know it might be a little hard to see on the video, but the ECU seemed to be looking for the correct PW value that would hold the 45K RPM at idle. The idle rpm fluctuated between 35K up to 50K and the PW was anywhere from 90 to 130's
On the second start, I decreased the PUMP RAMP back to 6 (factory setting) and got pretty much the same:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0t1XIxSwh0[/youtube]
Should I let the engine idle for longer so the ECU can adjust for the changes in settings???
I'm thinking I should start back at square one, return all my setting back to the factory settings (glow 32 and PUMP RAMP 6), learn RC, and then run the engine to allow the ECU to find the proper settings to hold idle at 45K. The engine ran fine (minus the blown plug) before I started messing with the setting.
Thanks
Chris
I'm wondering if anyone can give me some insight to a idle problem I'm having with my K80E (i'm pretty sure it was self induced).
Here is the history....
I have over 5 hours on the engine now and around 20 flights with no problems. Recently I burned out a plug on start up and changed my glow value from 32 to 21. I ran a few test starts after and everything seemed fine. When I went out to the field, I noticed the engine would hang on start up just over 20K rpm, so the next day we decided to increase the PUMP RAMP from 6 to 8.
Video of hung start: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAnIo48Nu5c&feature=related[/youtube]
That seemed to correct the problem but I noticed that the PW value at idle jumped from around 100 to the 130's. So today i backed the PUMP RAMP down to 7 and increased the glow value to 26, and got this result:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOigV2Q1x-M[/youtube]
I know it might be a little hard to see on the video, but the ECU seemed to be looking for the correct PW value that would hold the 45K RPM at idle. The idle rpm fluctuated between 35K up to 50K and the PW was anywhere from 90 to 130's
On the second start, I decreased the PUMP RAMP back to 6 (factory setting) and got pretty much the same:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0t1XIxSwh0[/youtube]
Should I let the engine idle for longer so the ECU can adjust for the changes in settings???
I'm thinking I should start back at square one, return all my setting back to the factory settings (glow 32 and PUMP RAMP 6), learn RC, and then run the engine to allow the ECU to find the proper settings to hold idle at 45K. The engine ran fine (minus the blown plug) before I started messing with the setting.
Thanks
Chris
#655

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From: Daytona Beach
Chris,
The changes you are making have nothing to do with idle fluctuation. What pump version, flightworks or Hausel? Idle wandering is typically a sign of bad pump, plugged filter, clogged injector or fuel restriction. Are you sure the clunk line has not kinked in the tank?
The changes you are making have nothing to do with idle fluctuation. What pump version, flightworks or Hausel? Idle wandering is typically a sign of bad pump, plugged filter, clogged injector or fuel restriction. Are you sure the clunk line has not kinked in the tank?
#656
Hi friends:
Really this turbine a more cheap for some reason, but I am very happy with my new turbine, I told that JetsMunt is best because this turbine has pieces from molds and the Merlin is cnc mechanized, only for this reason, I do not want to offend anyone, it's just my opinion, I'm no scholar on the subject.
And please, do not laugh at my english, if you speak spanish forum and you do it wrong, I do not laugh.
I put more photos.
BR from Spain.
Carlos Márquez.
______________________________
http://cmjets.blogspot.com/

Really this turbine a more cheap for some reason, but I am very happy with my new turbine, I told that JetsMunt is best because this turbine has pieces from molds and the Merlin is cnc mechanized, only for this reason, I do not want to offend anyone, it's just my opinion, I'm no scholar on the subject.
And please, do not laugh at my english, if you speak spanish forum and you do it wrong, I do not laugh.
I put more photos.
BR from Spain.

Carlos Márquez.
______________________________
http://cmjets.blogspot.com/
#657

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From: Maple Grove,
MN
Thanks Todd and FW. I checked the filter and all is good so I'm assuming I have a restricted line, vent or clunk in the system which would explain the higher PW and inconsistant RPM. The pump is working harder to draw fuel through the system. When I get back intown this weekend I will give it a check and report back.<div>
</div><div>Thanks for the help!</div><div>
</div><div>Chris</div>
</div><div>Thanks for the help!</div><div>
</div><div>Chris</div>
#659

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From: bellmawr,
NJ
i got a new k-80f from troybuilt today and i dont have a glow plug wire coming out next to the thermo wire or in the box.is this normal or is something not right.can someone help.
#662

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From: Sao PauloSao Paulo, BRAZIL
Yes, you don't need a glow plug, jus follow the manual, and you will be very happy with this turbine, I own a gas and a kero start versions, but I prefer the gas start.
#663
ORIGINAL: megafly
Yes, you don't need a glow plug, jus follow the manual, and you will be very happy with this turbine, I own a gas and a kero start versions, but I prefer the gas start.
Yes, you don't need a glow plug, jus follow the manual, and you will be very happy with this turbine, I own a gas and a kero start versions, but I prefer the gas start.
#664
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From: Las Pinas, PHILIPPINES
Kero start rocks! All i need to do is turn the fuel valve on, start up and fly! No messing around with gas tanks, lines and plugs ;D <div>
</div>
</div>
#665

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From: Sao PauloSao Paulo, BRAZIL
ORIGINAL: ira d
I know the gas version has faster starts and uses less battery to get started but are there other reasons you perfer the gas start?
ORIGINAL: megafly
Yes, you don't need a glow plug, jus follow the manual, and you will be very happy with this turbine, I own a gas and a kero start versions, but I prefer the gas start.
Yes, you don't need a glow plug, jus follow the manual, and you will be very happy with this turbine, I own a gas and a kero start versions, but I prefer the gas start.
Just for these two reasons, ans less wear on the starter motor, Once they started you can't tell witch one is the Kero or Gas.
#666
Been with the family for the last few weeks, thank you all for all the support and condolences here on the thread or behind the scene, all very well received! You guys are awesome!
Also like to thank Todd, Dirk and all of you for answering questions during my absence.
As with Kero vs. Gas start, I personally run both, and are perfectly happy with either (as long as I get to fly jets : ). I think I may lean towards Kero a bit more for the sake of simplicity and one more advantage, that the bearings are being lubed during the start up. The factory now only have Kero Start in the main production line, although I do have one of each of the gas starts and they are $100 less than the Kero and could still be special ordered if needed.
Again, thank you all, and good to be back!
Barry
Also like to thank Todd, Dirk and all of you for answering questions during my absence.
As with Kero vs. Gas start, I personally run both, and are perfectly happy with either (as long as I get to fly jets : ). I think I may lean towards Kero a bit more for the sake of simplicity and one more advantage, that the bearings are being lubed during the start up. The factory now only have Kero Start in the main production line, although I do have one of each of the gas starts and they are $100 less than the Kero and could still be special ordered if needed.
Again, thank you all, and good to be back!
Barry
#667
ORIGINAL: cmjets
Hi friends:
Really this turbine a more cheap for some reason, but I am very happy with my new turbine, I told that JetsMunt is best because this turbine has pieces from molds and the Merlin is cnc mechanized, only for this reason, I do not want to offend anyone, it's just my opinion, I'm no scholar on the subject.
And please, do not laugh at my english, if you speak spanish forum and you do it wrong, I do not laugh.
I put more photos.
BR from Spain.
Carlos Márquez.
______________________________
http://cmjets.blogspot.com/
Hi friends:

Really this turbine a more cheap for some reason, but I am very happy with my new turbine, I told that JetsMunt is best because this turbine has pieces from molds and the Merlin is cnc mechanized, only for this reason, I do not want to offend anyone, it's just my opinion, I'm no scholar on the subject.
And please, do not laugh at my english, if you speak spanish forum and you do it wrong, I do not laugh.
I put more photos.
BR from Spain.

Carlos Márquez.
______________________________
http://cmjets.blogspot.com/
Molds were made in house with CNC machining at a much higher level of difficulty. The reason that the factory choose to invest in mold making is to facilitate production and cost effectiveness in the long run without compromising quality by casting.
Regards,
Barry
#668
ORIGINAL: marquisvns
Been with the family for the last few weeks, thank you all for all the support and condolences here on the thread or behind the scene, all very well received! You guys are awesome!
Also like to thank Todd, Dirk and all of you for answering questions during my absence.
As with Kero vs. Gas start, I personally run both, and are perfectly happy with either (as long as I get to fly jets : ). I think I may lean towards Kero a bit more for the sake of simplicity and one more advantage, that the bearings are being lubed during the start up. The factory now only have Kero Start in the main production line, although I do have one of each of the gas starts and they are $100 less than the Kero and could still be special ordered if needed.
Again, thank you all, and good to be back!
Barry
Been with the family for the last few weeks, thank you all for all the support and condolences here on the thread or behind the scene, all very well received! You guys are awesome!
Also like to thank Todd, Dirk and all of you for answering questions during my absence.
As with Kero vs. Gas start, I personally run both, and are perfectly happy with either (as long as I get to fly jets : ). I think I may lean towards Kero a bit more for the sake of simplicity and one more advantage, that the bearings are being lubed during the start up. The factory now only have Kero Start in the main production line, although I do have one of each of the gas starts and they are $100 less than the Kero and could still be special ordered if needed.
Again, thank you all, and good to be back!
Barry
Great to have you back!!!!
Mike
#670
Just got my K80f a couple weeks ago. The Fadec is different from the pictures in the manual. Can someone tell me which way to plug in (polarity) the fuel switch and the starting fuel switch? The Fadec I have is the one where the connectors are on on top rather than the side. The RPM sensor and thermocouple plug polarity was explained in the manual, but I could not find anything about the fuel switches.
Thanks for the help.
Tom
Thanks for the help.
Tom
#671
Barry, Nice to see your back. Best wishes to you and your Family. I just like to say the kero start is my fav. The install is cleaner and just less Stuff to put into your jet and bring to the field...and a $100.00 bucks more I think it's a no brainer!! I got to put 4 hours on a K-80f in a Shock Jet the last time the weather let us fly here in Ohio.It performed flawlessly evey start and flight.ps. put the 4 hours on it in 3 days!! Can't wait to get in the K-80f for my Falcon real soon. Not much flying time left here!!! Thanks Billy D
ORIGINAL: marquisvns
Been with the family for the last few weeks, thank you all for all the support and condolences here on the thread or behind the scene, all very well received! You guys are awesome!
Also like to thank Todd, Dirk and all of you for answering questions during my absence.
As with Kero vs. Gas start, I personally run both, and are perfectly happy with either (as long as I get to fly jets : ). I think I may lean towards Kero a bit more for the sake of simplicity and one more advantage, that the bearings are being lubed during the start up. The factory now only have Kero Start in the main production line, although I do have one of each of the gas starts and they are $100 less than the Kero and could still be special ordered if needed.
Again, thank you all, and good to be back!
Barry
Been with the family for the last few weeks, thank you all for all the support and condolences here on the thread or behind the scene, all very well received! You guys are awesome!
Also like to thank Todd, Dirk and all of you for answering questions during my absence.
As with Kero vs. Gas start, I personally run both, and are perfectly happy with either (as long as I get to fly jets : ). I think I may lean towards Kero a bit more for the sake of simplicity and one more advantage, that the bearings are being lubed during the start up. The factory now only have Kero Start in the main production line, although I do have one of each of the gas starts and they are $100 less than the Kero and could still be special ordered if needed.
Again, thank you all, and good to be back!
Barry
#672

Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sao PauloSao Paulo, BRAZIL
I think Barry can say something about my problem.
Today for the first time I started my K-140 kerostart, it started with no problem, I leted stabilize on iddle and put it on full power, did this like 10 times, no problem, bu when I send the command to stop, the turbine run a little time and then locked, I saw that and give a little tap on the compressor and it started to run free like nothing happened and finished the cooldown sequence, there was no strange sounds, no vibration, nothing, I examinet the compressor and the turbine wheel and theres no sign at all that they rubbed the case, I have 2 K-80's and never saw this, the turbine is running free like nothing happened.
It's very strange, what do you think it happened? O well I was putting a big hoppe into this engine [
]
Thanks guys.
Today for the first time I started my K-140 kerostart, it started with no problem, I leted stabilize on iddle and put it on full power, did this like 10 times, no problem, bu when I send the command to stop, the turbine run a little time and then locked, I saw that and give a little tap on the compressor and it started to run free like nothing happened and finished the cooldown sequence, there was no strange sounds, no vibration, nothing, I examinet the compressor and the turbine wheel and theres no sign at all that they rubbed the case, I have 2 K-80's and never saw this, the turbine is running free like nothing happened.
It's very strange, what do you think it happened? O well I was putting a big hoppe into this engine [
]Thanks guys.
#673
Hi Megafly, I'm very sorry about this problem. This occurs in a small percentage of 140 and 170s before the latest generation of shaft tunnel is implemented. This temporary binding is only during cool down, once in operating temperature it has absolutely no bearing to its operation and should clear up in time with more temperature fluctuation cycles. Just in case if you can not tolerate it, please have it sent back to the factory for an upgrade. Otherwise, you can count on a good discount on your next turbine if you could "deal" with it in case it's going in a boomerang where flicking the rotor isn't too much a problem. Subsequently, a free upgrade will be easily done during a maintenance service.
Barry
Barry
#674

My Feedback: (25)
ORIGINAL: Tip22v
Just got my K80f a couple weeks ago. The Fadec is different from the pictures in the manual. Can someone tell me which way to plug in (polarity) the fuel switch and the starting fuel switch? The Fadec I have is the one where the connectors are on on top rather than the side. The RPM sensor and thermocouple plug polarity was explained in the manual, but I could not find anything about the fuel switches.
Thanks for the help.
Tom
Just got my K80f a couple weeks ago. The Fadec is different from the pictures in the manual. Can someone tell me which way to plug in (polarity) the fuel switch and the starting fuel switch? The Fadec I have is the one where the connectors are on on top rather than the side. The RPM sensor and thermocouple plug polarity was explained in the manual, but I could not find anything about the fuel switches.
Thanks for the help.
Tom



