Hi Carl/Woodie

I also used the IMP control horn. I drilled a hole in the rudder but I glued a carbon tube with 6 min epoxy instead of make the balsa harder with CA.
My integral had 50+ flights with out any problem

Just gave you guys another option of how to install the control horn.


Just because I'm curious, how many % of expo do you use on rudder?

Ram

It is a pushrod elevator set up.
I used the IMP rudder horn Pull Pull set up.
I always thought the block in the rudder was too small for the hardware they send.

I will get some pics posted today.

Carl

Futaba setup. I have -65% expo in the rudder. Rudder as master, mixed with 10% up elevator.
2% down elevator with throttle down.
The rudder on this plane is very effective compared to other models. It does not require much input for small corrections.

Carl

Integral 2 Pushrod set up and Rudder Control Horn setup pictures.

Push rods are made from 1/4" carbon fiber with Titanium ends from Central Hobbies.

They are free floating no supports from servo to elevator. I took 3 rods, wrapped heavy tent thread around all three for about 4 inches and slow CA to form a ======---------- I then added a spreader to form a Y with the ends measuring the distance apart as the control horns. Cut the fuse to match. I have 5 flights on Integral 2. There is NO FLEX and NO VIBRATION noise from the push rod.


I should have taken pictures of the pushrod before I installed it.

I mounted the elevator servo on the Tank tray just behind the tank. Reinforced the tray and added one suport under the tray at the servo. This moved the tank slightly forward of the CG. I am sure it is not enough to matter.

This also saved me the weight of one servo. And in my case 9 oz of lead off the firewall. The push rod ended up weighing the same as the wires leading to the servos that would have been in the stab.

The tail of the airplane floats rather then sag with out the 2.4 oz the servos would have weighed and the plane locks in at a much slower speed.

Carl

I flew a friend's electric Integral last week and it had some strange characteristics. It took some up trim to fly level but would still climb (go to the belly) inverted. We moved the cg forward and at least got to the point where you didn't need to hold up elevator to fly level inverted. However, the plane still wanted to go to the belly on vertical uplines. One thing he did was put the battery pack in the chin cowl so it is well below the thrust line. I thought that might contribute to the push to the belly in uplines. Where did you mount your battery? Did you change the wing incidence or thrustline? Any other ideas?

Jim O

PS The plane flew well enough that I went home and ordered one.

Keep moving the CG forward.

I have my CG on both Integrals at 165 mm back from the leading edge at the root. I need down elevator to hold level inverted and on 45 degree up lines. Mine pulls very slightly towards the canopy on up lines upright and quite a bit to the canopy on down lines.

I added a mix for the down lines. I did not mix for the up lines.

Carl

That sounds like a good approach. Did you end up flying with a bunch of uptrim then?

Jim

I can't see it on the stab if that is what you mean.


Carl

Carl

Which type ES pipe do you use with 140RX?

Harris

I used an Aeroslave pipe on Integral 1 and an earlier model ES pipe on Integral 2

The new pipe Model #is ES2C140AX

Because of the shallow pipe tunnel on the Integral, the other 2" diameter ES pipes are a tight fit.


Carl

Thanks a lot Carl

Harris

I can't find the hard point for the screws to hold the stabs in place. I looked inside the stab and can't see anything? Is the hard poind on the other side of the rib? Can anyone post a photo of where it should be?

Thanks much.
Colin.

Colin,

If you look inside the stab, there will be a glob of white epoxy glue on the carbon tube. On mine it's 91.5mm from the root. Drill there and run your screw through to the epoxy. You can also wedge a piece of ply in that area and epoxy it in so you don't have to recess the hole for the screw.

Jason

Not sure if my last post went through.

I just used a thin coat of epoxy and glued my stabs on both Integral in place.
I saw no reason to remove the Stab once it was installed. It also holds the stabs in place with less play and movement then the screw set up.

Carl

An alternative might be,to use a small bead of silicone as the glue----easier to cut through if you do have to remove a stab half at a later date.
(just saying this as a friend's elevator halves on his Integral were crushed recently--someone else's model ran into the Integral's nose,and it was pushed backwards into my flight box--which saved my Leviosa from a similar fate.)

Good idea.
Would it be rigid enough to remove the play that I found in the wing tubes?

Carl

Probably not for long,I'd guess....My Abbra and Leviosa both have perfect fits there, but others have fixed slack tail tubes by curing thin layers of cyano onto the inners.

A bead of silicone will remove all play in the stab as well as dampen vibration. Works great and can be removed too.

Jason

There is nothing in the area, no blobs of epoxy...I'll have to add the ply plate. Also, the elevators are trimmed differently on the upper surface of the stabs. Elevator LE trimmed on the right and Stab TE trimmed on the left...hope that does't srew up anything. And, the right wing did not fit at the front pin. I had to open up the existing ply ring and install another one. If I forced it to fit it would have been 1/2 degree different from the other panel. One more...none of the control surfaces were able to slide. They all required trimming, only a mm I think but what's QC doing?

Either the build instructions are poorly written or QC is not doing its job. The QC stamps everywhere are cute but don't seen to mean much. Please pass my comments on to your supplier.

Colin.

When I bought my first Integral there were no instructions. My opinion there is not to follow them to the letter.
When I checked the clearance of the control surfaces. All of mine needed some sanding.
You will find over time you will probably need to sand them again. So, check them often for a while. I know my first Integral I had to sand after a few flights and then once more. I check the clearances every time I put the plane together and get ready to fly. I don't think that is a QC problem, they may have had clearance when it left the factory. I think the material is thin enough it will deform to a certain extent for a short time and then stablize. Temperature can cause the composite material to move and cause a bind.

I may have mentioned this in one of my build posts, but I am not sure.

Carl

I've got one coming in October... I would like to know what the BEST JR servos for each surface that you all would recommend for this plane. (Please only JR as that's what I use) I've used 8411SA's in my other plane and am not sure if it's the latest/best stuff out there now. Trying to gather stuff and need to get things ordered. This plane will be setup with a Hacker... John

Sorry to ask this again, But Jason / Andrew any chance you could put up some pics of your electric integral's. And talk about your servo, battery, model setup and recommendation you would make if you were starting a new integral?

Thanks for your help.

Hi patrnflyr

This is what i use on my Integral powerd by a 1.60DZ

JR 8241 for rudder
2 X JR 3401 for elevator
2 X JR 9401 for ailerons
JR 341 for throttle

Ram

Whe I slide both wings onto the wing tube, It has positive dihedral. Are yours like that or are the wing sockets incorrectly installed in the wings?

Thanks
Alan

Yes mine are like that. Slight, but yes some positive.


Carl