Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
#501
Hi,
I have a question, do you believe that 0.5 degree will make huge difference? The vibration caused by the engine will cause the whole stab and elevator to move or oscillate more than that in some specific RPM.
Harri why do you have to move the whole wing? The wing is the master in such case, so try to adjust if possible the stab that is out of angle.
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
I have a question, do you believe that 0.5 degree will make huge difference? The vibration caused by the engine will cause the whole stab and elevator to move or oscillate more than that in some specific RPM.
Harri why do you have to move the whole wing? The wing is the master in such case, so try to adjust if possible the stab that is out of angle.
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
#502

Hi Nick
I know that i will change the incdence of the stab,
i allready make bigger wholes to the fuse so i can change
the stab incidence.
The problem is that the incidence of the wing must change
from 0 degree that is now to 1/4 positive degree when the stab is at 0.
I also sent a mail to mr Zardini and he answer me that the proper
incidence of the wing is at 1/4 positive degree and stab always 0 degree.
Harris
I know that i will change the incdence of the stab,
i allready make bigger wholes to the fuse so i can change
the stab incidence.
The problem is that the incidence of the wing must change
from 0 degree that is now to 1/4 positive degree when the stab is at 0.
I also sent a mail to mr Zardini and he answer me that the proper
incidence of the wing is at 1/4 positive degree and stab always 0 degree.
Harris
#503
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From: larisa, GREECE
personally, in Impact that I have regulators, and in integral that I have not put, I placed the wings in the 0 degrees and then i putt the stab in 0,25 negative
dapan
dapan
#504
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
[/quote]
Hi Nikos
This is my stab. And the carbon tube is not glued. Is that luck or bad luck. My friend has bought a Beryll. For me, that is quality. Without painting. And the price is almost the same. I love this Plane. The construction not the work. And this is the only reason for Integral. Next plane I will buy from ZN Line. Then I can adjust everything by myself. That is the better way and my opinion.
But I will not criticize always. Please do not understood me false.
SR
andreas
Regards,
Nikos
[/quote]
Hi Nikos
This is my stab. And the carbon tube is not glued. Is that luck or bad luck. My friend has bought a Beryll. For me, that is quality. Without painting. And the price is almost the same. I love this Plane. The construction not the work. And this is the only reason for Integral. Next plane I will buy from ZN Line. Then I can adjust everything by myself. That is the better way and my opinion.
But I will not criticize always. Please do not understood me false.
SR
andreas
#505
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: Nickolas
Hi,
I have a question, do you believe that 0.5 degree will make huge difference? The vibration caused by the engine will cause the whole stab and elevator to move or oscillate more than that in some specific RPM.
Harri why do you have to move the whole wing? The wing is the master in such case, so try to adjust if possible the stab that is out of angle.
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
Hi,
I have a question, do you believe that 0.5 degree will make huge difference? The vibration caused by the engine will cause the whole stab and elevator to move or oscillate more than that in some specific RPM.
Harri why do you have to move the whole wing? The wing is the master in such case, so try to adjust if possible the stab that is out of angle.
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
MattK
#506
ORIGINAL: MTK
Hey Greeks, why no showing at the Worlds??
MattK
ORIGINAL: Nickolas
Hi,
I have a question, do you believe that 0.5 degree will make huge difference? The vibration caused by the engine will cause the whole stab and elevator to move or oscillate more than that in some specific RPM.
Harri why do you have to move the whole wing? The wing is the master in such case, so try to adjust if possible the stab that is out of angle.
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
Hi,
I have a question, do you believe that 0.5 degree will make huge difference? The vibration caused by the engine will cause the whole stab and elevator to move or oscillate more than that in some specific RPM.
Harri why do you have to move the whole wing? The wing is the master in such case, so try to adjust if possible the stab that is out of angle.
Crazy F3A the plane is quite ok for the price in my opinion, if you purchased another kit such as ZN you would have probably to adjust everything by yourself.
Regards,
Nikos
MattK

Joking of course, in the previous WC in France the team of 1 flyer was there, this time it was too far.
Regards,
Nikos
#507
ORIGINAL: PATTERNPATTERN
Hey,
I am not sure if I am going to put a tunnel in my Electric Integral. I see from pictures from Jas & Andrew that they do not have any!
Any thoughts from you guy's? I am worried that it might be alot of air coming through the fuz. Should I block off the radio gear section?
Any pictures or comments on a tunnel or cooling dams would be appreciated.
Cheers!
Hey,
I am not sure if I am going to put a tunnel in my Electric Integral. I see from pictures from Jas & Andrew that they do not have any!
Any thoughts from you guy's? I am worried that it might be alot of air coming through the fuz. Should I block off the radio gear section?
Any pictures or comments on a tunnel or cooling dams would be appreciated.
Cheers!
Andrew
#508

My Feedback: (41)
Hey Andrew great job at the worlds.
If anyone is interested in saving about 6 oz's on an Electric version email me at [email protected]. My friend Mickey has foam cores cut and available for the Integral. I'm having him make me the new ultra light wings for mine right now. With the Axi/ Dualsky motors that I use making weight is really hard but with these wings it will be way under weight. Plus the advantage of center hinged ailerons. Mike Mueller
If anyone is interested in saving about 6 oz's on an Electric version email me at [email protected]. My friend Mickey has foam cores cut and available for the Integral. I'm having him make me the new ultra light wings for mine right now. With the Axi/ Dualsky motors that I use making weight is really hard but with these wings it will be way under weight. Plus the advantage of center hinged ailerons. Mike Mueller
#509
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From: , ON, CANADA
Guys
I still have not drilled the holes for the stab tube screws.
Does the screw hole go on the outboard or inboard side of the support rib?
Colin.
I still have not drilled the holes for the stab tube screws.
Does the screw hole go on the outboard or inboard side of the support rib?
Colin.
#512
Sir's
About saving weight. Even though mine is quite light as used in WC (4830g = 10.54), it's good to have a solid margin that enables one to test different types of batteries (used FlightPower 5350's so far).
What I had done then was :
- Self-made foam wings; 410g (14.4 oz) per half ready for flying (my C-Arf wings was 409 when delivered). (I saved 150g = 5.3Oz)
- Foam stabs from ZN, originally for a Synergy (not very light), saved just above 40g (1.5 Oz)
- ZN Carbon gear, way lighter and nicer than the C-Arf units , save 40g (1.4 Oz)
- Build up, upen structure balsa rudder, saved around 30g (1 Oz)
I have identifyed the following further items that will save me even more :
- Carbon-spinner from Philippe Marquet , also available from http://www.f3alorenz.de/. The back-plate of this goes directly onto the cone on the Hacker motor, so you do not need to use the prop-driver. Compared to my own-made carbon-spinner with normal lightened alu-backplate I saved 35g (1.2 Oz).
- Wing tube from PBG; the one from C-Arf is rather heavy and it's not even round. The 30mm one from PBG need a couple of coats of paint to fit nicely. 20g saved on this (0.7 Oz)
- Use lighter servos, I will defenitely exchange JR DS 8455 on ailerons with JR DS 9411SA, maybe also the elevator servo. 20g saved per servo.
By these additional tricks I save another 100g, and is down to around 4730g (10.4), I think that I then have some margin for experiments. :-)
About saving weight. Even though mine is quite light as used in WC (4830g = 10.54), it's good to have a solid margin that enables one to test different types of batteries (used FlightPower 5350's so far).
What I had done then was :
- Self-made foam wings; 410g (14.4 oz) per half ready for flying (my C-Arf wings was 409 when delivered). (I saved 150g = 5.3Oz)
- Foam stabs from ZN, originally for a Synergy (not very light), saved just above 40g (1.5 Oz)
- ZN Carbon gear, way lighter and nicer than the C-Arf units , save 40g (1.4 Oz)
- Build up, upen structure balsa rudder, saved around 30g (1 Oz)
I have identifyed the following further items that will save me even more :
- Carbon-spinner from Philippe Marquet , also available from http://www.f3alorenz.de/. The back-plate of this goes directly onto the cone on the Hacker motor, so you do not need to use the prop-driver. Compared to my own-made carbon-spinner with normal lightened alu-backplate I saved 35g (1.2 Oz).
- Wing tube from PBG; the one from C-Arf is rather heavy and it's not even round. The 30mm one from PBG need a couple of coats of paint to fit nicely. 20g saved on this (0.7 Oz)
- Use lighter servos, I will defenitely exchange JR DS 8455 on ailerons with JR DS 9411SA, maybe also the elevator servo. 20g saved per servo.
By these additional tricks I save another 100g, and is down to around 4730g (10.4), I think that I then have some margin for experiments. :-)
#513
Senior Member
Is anyone using the MK tailwheel on their Integral?
If you are, have you got a picture or tip on how to fit it with the rudder rod in the way.
Jason
If you are, have you got a picture or tip on how to fit it with the rudder rod in the way.
Jason
#515

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From: Fremont, CA
Colin,
The stock wheel pants doesn't last too long, after changed to Bolly wheel pants, which use standard width tires, I use 8-32 bolts as axles.
Kevin
The stock wheel pants doesn't last too long, after changed to Bolly wheel pants, which use standard width tires, I use 8-32 bolts as axles.
Kevin
#516
Cut the pivot wire flush with the top and bottom of the rudder and put a piece of clear tape over both ends so it can't fall out.
Malcolm
Malcolm
#517
Senior Member
Thanks Malcolm, I did work around it another way. put the 90 degree bend n then cut it down to about 10mm long and dremeled a groove into the bottom of the rudder, taped over it then mounted the tail wheel over that...sorted
#518

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From: San Jose,
CA
Kevin,
According to my instructions - "Each stab also has a matching carbon sleeve inside it, with a blob of epoxy/microballoons on the bottom of it to reinforce the position where you must install the M3 X 12mm stab retaining bolts, approx. 75mm (3") in from the root rib." I measured my stab and found that 4" (measuring from the outside edge of the stab - the root rib is an 1/8 " indent) puts you right on/just inside of the the inner rib. Any reason why you chose 4" rather than 3"? The reason that I ask is that I'm getting ready to do my stab.
Nitpicking as always,
Terry
P.S. See you out at the field if the rain ever stops.
According to my instructions - "Each stab also has a matching carbon sleeve inside it, with a blob of epoxy/microballoons on the bottom of it to reinforce the position where you must install the M3 X 12mm stab retaining bolts, approx. 75mm (3") in from the root rib." I measured my stab and found that 4" (measuring from the outside edge of the stab - the root rib is an 1/8 " indent) puts you right on/just inside of the the inner rib. Any reason why you chose 4" rather than 3"? The reason that I ask is that I'm getting ready to do my stab.
Nitpicking as always,
Terry
P.S. See you out at the field if the rain ever stops.
#519

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From: Fremont, CA
Hi Terry,
Was at the field for 4 flights today, and I was the only one flying at the time until I was done. It was kind of nice to have the entire field to myself wth very mild wind and some high clouds.
The 4" location has no particular reason, and since I had a hard time finding the exact location where they placed the epoxy/microballoon reinforcement, I went with my own measurement instead. The good thing is the plane has more than 200 flights without any sign of issues.
Kevin
Was at the field for 4 flights today, and I was the only one flying at the time until I was done. It was kind of nice to have the entire field to myself wth very mild wind and some high clouds.
The 4" location has no particular reason, and since I had a hard time finding the exact location where they placed the epoxy/microballoon reinforcement, I went with my own measurement instead. The good thing is the plane has more than 200 flights without any sign of issues.
Kevin
#520

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From: San Jose,
CA
Kevin,
I did some more measuring and I discovered that stab tube sticks out 4 1/4" (from fuselage side to end of tube). If you tap at 4" this puts you out near the end of the tube and makes it easier to put in the T-nut that they supply. It also matches the picture that they have in the back of the manual. Tapping at 3" is doable, but it makes it a little harder to put the T-nut in.
Terry
..... Flying! you are harcore .... it was raining pretty heavy where I live...
I did some more measuring and I discovered that stab tube sticks out 4 1/4" (from fuselage side to end of tube). If you tap at 4" this puts you out near the end of the tube and makes it easier to put in the T-nut that they supply. It also matches the picture that they have in the back of the manual. Tapping at 3" is doable, but it makes it a little harder to put the T-nut in.
Terry
..... Flying! you are harcore .... it was raining pretty heavy where I live...
#521

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From: Fremont, CA
Terry,
Forgot to mention that I decided to use 6-32 screw and T-nut combo on mine. It may be a little over kill, but so far it has been working fine, meanwhile, they are easier for me to find a replacement in case I need them...
Next weekend should be sunny and warm on both days, hope to see you at the field.
Kevin
Forgot to mention that I decided to use 6-32 screw and T-nut combo on mine. It may be a little over kill, but so far it has been working fine, meanwhile, they are easier for me to find a replacement in case I need them...
Next weekend should be sunny and warm on both days, hope to see you at the field.
Kevin
#522
Hi,
Here`s my MK tailwheel installed in my Integral.
As you can see, the rudder hinge-pin also function as a steering-pin for the tailwheel, and at the same time ;the tailwheel provide a lock for the rudder hinge pin.
Kjell Olav
Here`s my MK tailwheel installed in my Integral.
As you can see, the rudder hinge-pin also function as a steering-pin for the tailwheel, and at the same time ;the tailwheel provide a lock for the rudder hinge pin.
Kjell Olav
#523
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From: Dodge City,
CG question for all, particularly interested in anyone running the Integral with Pletty 30-10 Evo
Schulze ESC and Thunder power 10 cell extreme packs.
Can anyone who has this setup post some photos showing battery location and tell me what CG
location you have.
There seems to be a very large range of CG locations bein mentioned in this thread, I have been
trying to get mine balanced at 195mm, this seems a little far bak based on what I am reading.
Thanks
Elmer
Schulze ESC and Thunder power 10 cell extreme packs.
Can anyone who has this setup post some photos showing battery location and tell me what CG
location you have.
There seems to be a very large range of CG locations bein mentioned in this thread, I have been
trying to get mine balanced at 195mm, this seems a little far bak based on what I am reading.
Thanks
Elmer
#524
Hi to all builders of C-ARF Integral.
I am at the assembly of the integral.
First Manufacturers error. I think that is not the last.
[:@] Futaba S 9650 does not fit into the elevator. [:@]
I am angry [:@] [:@] [:@]
andreas
I am at the assembly of the integral.
First Manufacturers error. I think that is not the last.
[:@] Futaba S 9650 does not fit into the elevator. [:@]
I am angry [:@] [:@] [:@]
andreas
#525
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From: Sart-Dames-Avelines, BELGIUM
Not a manufacturer error !!!!
All their kits are "optimized" for JR servo's, Correct me if I'm wrong!
If you really want to loose your time, take your biggest pencil and try to convince Carf to change that !
Or just buy equivalent JR servo and stop to complain
I had the same little prob., just 30 min to adjust and glue a little plywood behind !
No worries
Personnaly, I also changed the rudder servo tray to have receiver and powerbox inter on the same plate.
Wheels : simply a diam. 4 mm hex screw through everything, some nylons washers, nylon-bolts see pictures. Almost what's written in the manual.
Tailwheel : some 3 mm plywood, PU glue, 2 insert coil MPjet "et zou....."
Enjoy the great airplane you have for the money you paid
I didn't try to save any weight
Laurent
All their kits are "optimized" for JR servo's, Correct me if I'm wrong!
If you really want to loose your time, take your biggest pencil and try to convince Carf to change that !
Or just buy equivalent JR servo and stop to complain

I had the same little prob., just 30 min to adjust and glue a little plywood behind !
No worries
Personnaly, I also changed the rudder servo tray to have receiver and powerbox inter on the same plate.
Wheels : simply a diam. 4 mm hex screw through everything, some nylons washers, nylon-bolts see pictures. Almost what's written in the manual.
Tailwheel : some 3 mm plywood, PU glue, 2 insert coil MPjet "et zou....."
Enjoy the great airplane you have for the money you paid
I didn't try to save any weight

Laurent


