Hey Anthony,

Mike is running them so they sweep back, there are no issue with ground handling. Mike is on the road and not sure when he is back...

dean

When you post that pic please include the weight. A number of us are looking for a replacement for the no longer available ES gear.

I think the combined weight is about 5.2 oz. I remember weighing them against the ES gear and nearly crying as they were more than double the weight. They have a more finished look than the ES gear but significantly heavier. To look at the ES gear you would almost think that Ed is able to bond carbon fiber without epoxy. His gear has no shine to it and is extremely light.

I will ask Mark exactly what the weight was and report back.

OK which way is the front and which is the back?

Anthony,

The gear sweep back....

Arch

Landing gear:

There is no real substitute for the ES gear. it's gone, so the point is irrelavent. they were the lightest and the strongest. They didn't look as good but they worked WELL. Currently all of the gears weigh about the same. About 4.5+ ounces. So pick your poison and save weight elsewhere. Unless someone has a better source they're holding out on?

They sweep back. And they do end up behind the LE of the wing. Even the most radical sweep doesn't sweep too far so it's fine.

-Mike

Mike,
Is there any time frame for the 110 version kits to be released?

Nope I'm afraid not. I wish I could tell you a date but I'm working on it. The plane is built, but the composites take a lot of time and work.

The first couple will be finished in monokote and test flown. As soon as I am satisfied with the way it builds and flies, I'll set a date.

What I am aiming for is the ultimate practice or entry level plane. if it doesn't fly like it's big brother, I'm not done yet. I want a plane that I can practice rollers and such with and if I screw up I don't lose a 2 meter. I'm trying to keep it cheap and fast without sacrificing quality.

The kit builds in a couple of days. It's really easy. It has all of the features of a full blown 2 meter plane but it's about 10% smaller. And since it doesn't have to handle a DZ, it can be a bit more simplified. I also have a dirt cheap but VERY powerful electric system that I am testing to go with it. The bateries are still pricey but it's designed to use a pair of 4s 4500s or 3700s. Total of 8s and fly at about 8 lbs. The YS version should be between 7 and 8 lbs dry.

-Mike

Mr Hester wrote:
As far as I know, the ES gear was made by Mr Mach in the Czech Republic----if not, the design and execution is identical.
They are still listed by W Lorenz in Germany,which is where I get mine from.
F3aLorenz.de----there is an English version, for the planes, on his website, but the gear is under "fahrwerk" or similar, in the German-only bit.
Might be worth checking?

Foamy Update !!!!

Finally got time this morning to test fly the Black Magic Foamy production design with the SFGs and larger ailerons. the plane RTF ended up at 14.5 oz.

The flights where in gusty winds of 10mph+ and I am very happy to report that the flight test went really well. The current version (V3) just flies way better, knifes with almost no rudder, does like 6 foot diameter knife edge loops, easier for me to do rolling circles and harriers, even in the gusting winds, very stable, and between gusts hovers even easier. I am locking down the final design and now focusing on the graphic packages, website and building instructions etc.

I now have everything I need to ship kits, I just picked got in some really nice laser cut firewalls/motor mounts (thanks to Mike's laser cutter), laser control horns, carbon, cases of 6mm foam, ship boxes and bags. etc etc. I am doing my best to finish the Black Magic Foamy website and shipping the kits I have pre-ordered. Kit's should be ready to go out very soon. I hope to cut all the pre-ordered kits this weekend.

Between my regular job and the other airplane projects I have on hand, this side project has taken a while to develop, I just want to make sure the foamy lives up to the lineage of it's big brother. I think it has and I can't wait to see the plane fly in the hands of a really good 3d pilot.

cheers all,

Hope your having a great thanksgiving!

dean

I utilised most of my long weekend for the Fuse Construction. It is easy build so far (As you can see I glued the F4 upside down which forced me to cut a little bit for the DEPS. My Mistake).

Thanks
Srikar

Very nice Srikar! How do you like the fuse jig?
Greg Grigsby

Greg,
Fuse Jig is real nice. This is my first Kit with no prior build experience and I found this Jig as a real good investment. Got it from Pete.

..Srikar

Glad you like it. It should server you well for a lot of airplanes.

Pete

F2T is also in wrong, it goes behind F2 not in front....hopefully that's just set there and you can adjust?

-M

Wow, that is lot of relief to see your post Mike. I was worried when the Canopy formers were not mathing perfect with the F2T and TDF. Dean was aksing me why the 1/2 inch gap was there between F2T and Canopy Former looking into photos and I was not able to understand why that Gap was there.

No, I did not glue the F2T yet, so I will put it back of F2 and hopefully that should align the Canopy formers close to F2T and TDF. I will confirm this later this evening.

Thanks a lot for correcting me.

..Srikar

A few pics for you.

With a hard sanding block and 80 grit paper, sand a slight bevel on the aft top edge of F2. This just lets F2T adhere better.

Note the dimension marked on the fuse drawing, that measurement is taken at the top middle stringer, from the front face of the firewall to the aft face of F2T. This sets F2T at the proper angle. Glue it on with a thick blend of epoxy and milled fiber, wiping down the excess. You just want a strong joint here.

After sheeting the front end, and setting the canopy frame, I glue the canopy to the frame using a jig that I made. It's just a piece of MDF board cut undersized so the canopy frame overhangs and doesn't interfere. A few inches below I made a flange to tape to. Tape the frame down to the flat piece of MDF and glue the canopy on. Run the tape snug but not tight pulling the canopy against the frame. Again you just want minimal gaps. If it's tightly pulled down, you will distort the angle. just snug and make sure the rear face doesn't change angles or you will hate life. if you wish, make a piece to brace the rear face so it can't move. This is probably the best way to do it.

-Mike

Milled Fiber, I am not having it handy but I spoke to West Marine in local and they said, they have "Marine Structural Filler" and the description is as follows,

Great for fiberglass and sheet metal ding repairs
Fiberglass filler with long strand reinforcing fibers for fiberglass and sheet metal repairs. Water-resistant. Hardener included. Great for quick and easy ding repair on fibergalss surfboards, sailboards, canoes and runabouts.

Formulation: Polyester putty
Recommended Usage: Fiberglass and sheet metal repairs
Color: White
Quantity: Quart

Is this something I can use in place of milled fiber??

Hey Srikar...

for the milled glass - go to http://www.cstsales.com and do a search for "A4010"

Spent yesterday capping 2 sets of wing cores and one set of stabs - I also prepped a set of fin and stab cores for sheeting. I am still finishing the top of the #2 fuse, I post some pics of that and the alignment process soon as I can.

I also had the pleasure of having the "Dragon Master" himself in the shop yesterday. We spent the afternoon shooting the bull, while I was cutting and capping etc....

Hopefully tonight I'll get the 2nd set of stabs and fin sheeted.....

Mike, any photos of Hatch Latch setup?
I just glued the F2T with milled fiber epoxy and going for decking. I made my canopy jig just as shown in picture with MDF and will glue it timarrow. Attached is the picture from V2 build that I am thinking about for hatch latch setup and I am not sure how the Turtle Deck inside got Balsa where the hatch latch was attached. Is the same can be applied for VF3 too?? I beleive, some photos will be helpfull If you have.

Hi Mike,

Just wonder if the ZDZ40 F3A + ES composite pipe combo can be used on VF3.

Specifically,
1. will the 11lb weight requirement be met?
2. can the tunnel area accept a pipe about 2.5" in diameter and abut 40" in length?
3. any additional structural-enforcement necessary?


I know the very competitive VF3 is designed around either the glow or the electric power system. The gas engine route probably pushes the envelope a little bit.


Thanks

Theoretically yes. The V2 that Chris Odom is now flying originally had a gas engine for power and was about 10 1/2 lbs and nothing was done to make it especially light.

If the ZDZ 40 has enough power and is a viable powerplant for pattern use in general, then absolutely it will work....if you can build light and pay attention. No special strengthening should be needed, it's already extremely strong. I would suggest a pro kit with the carbon though, just to make sure.

There is plenty of room to house the engine and pipe. The chin and cowl area is large. just make sure you have adequate cooling and a good soft mount and you should be just fine!

-Mike

Srekar...my bad! That picture is of a Patriot I built last year. I was trying to show one method of installing the latch so that daily use wouldn't mark up the fuse or canopy.

BTW - no foam in the turtle decks worked out fine! I wet the 1/16 wood, placed it in the shucks for a few days (without glue) and once dry, installed them with one former in the middle and one stringer across the top. After glassing it was plenty strong and easily saved a couple ounces.

Thanks for clarifying that Scott.

I have a question about Engine mount. I am using AR 70 and one of the 2 beams are not stright at 0 degres. One beam is at about 2 degres from the center. I am not sure if this has to be that way or this is a defect.

First picture is good with stright beams and other 2 pictures shows clearly that the second beam is not at 0 degres.

Any body, any coments?

your mont doesnt look good, maybe the pic lies but it seem that the al.beam is pressed into the pink front plate so that is not "straight" anymore but plate and beam is not like it should be i think!
I whould ask either Hyde or Central (if you bought it there) if this is how it supose to be, i dont think so!

Yep, that one is damaged and needs to go back.

-Mike