I love this thread. I'm learning a LOT. Dion, I did not need to locate my battery in the engine compartment. No problem with CG.

LDM, I am NOT the most experienced contributer here, but my own experience is that this model has a lot of drag and a lot of weight. I would personally be very leary of trying to power it with a .91. I have an ASP 1.20, and I wouldn't want anything less. My plane weighs in at about 12lbs, which seems to be typical of most. Mine is put together pretty much as recommended by the factory. I do, however, have the additional weight of the CJ pneumatic retracts and a lightweight, robart retractable tailwheel. These additions also require a couple extra servos. I need to experiment more with props. Currently have a 16 x 6 and I'm no where near unlimited verticle. If I point it up, I better have a plan in mind for coming back down! For instance, big loops are marginal and must be entered into at top speed. This Hellcat seems to have plenty wing though. Mine flys stable at low speeds. Takeoff roll isn't especially long. Reduce power and she really slows down fast, so landing approach is made with a lot of power. In my opinion, go with a 1.20 if you can.

How about that all new OS 1.20 AX?? Looks like a 90 size case,,,, slightly larger head and mounts...But looks like a winner for this bird!

bossman, i can't wait till you start on the p-26. i just picked up one from alix at ak-models.com. actually i was passing through iowa city and icaaed alix, and we met out at the airport. took delivery and drove it back to colorado. i have a saito 91 planned for it. only work done is insallation of bubro hinges on all surfaces. fues feels "squishey" so i'm now bending 1/4 x1/2 spruce in my steemer to add as fues stringers. ran (6) different glue tests on a fiberglass panel,== gorilla glue is very good, shoe goo is o.k. polyurethane glue is o.k. tight bond and epoxy (15) min, do not hold. anybody else tested a different glue on the inside of CMP fues's ?? mike

I haven't done a lot to the fuselage yet, but some of the formers were coming loose. I glued them with thin CA and a dash of Micro-Balloons. Get some Balloons in the groove and drop some CA over it, don't know if it'll hold with engine vibration but we'll see.

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Finished the scale hinging for the elevators.

First picture shows the completely new elevators and hinges.

Next you can see how the leading edge of the elevator was made in two pieces and just tack glued together for shaping and sanding. I popped them apart and cut a grove for the 1/8 plastic tube. When that's finished glue the pieces permanently back together. Then cut the hinge slots.

After the slots are cut install the hinges into the elevator by inserting the metal rod. Then glue the hinges into the stab for perfect alignment.

Then you can see how they work, very smooth operation!

Dion

Dion,


Nice work as usual. How do you keep the rod in place?


Pete

Hi ya Pete! I'll just bend it over at the end and bury it in the elevator and hold it there with some glue. I'll get your drop tanks out this week Pete, I've been building this thing and doing a lot with the Boy Scouts, just got back from a camping trip!

A .91 four stroke has less power than a .61 2 stroke, it probably would fly it if you kept it lite but I doubt it would be any fun and even scary at times! I will be using a .91 2 stoke on mine for those that want to know.

Dion

Here's mine, posing on flightline. Magnum 120 for power, no maiden yet as the battery broke loose, and had to return to hangar to ressecure.

Andy

Hay Andy,
That is one beautiful model.
Bobby of Maui

What kind of experience did you all have with the decals included in the kit? On my CMP Focke Wulf, they didn't stick worth a darn to the flat camo finish! What did you all do to make them stick better? Even clearcoating didn't help mine that much.

My decals stuck pretty well to the flat finish. Just make sure you use stamp tweezers to handle them and burnish their edges down real good. Also make sure the surfaces that they will be adhered to are free of oil and dust. You probably don't want to use the included decals anyway since they are made-up rather than being authentic.

Cheers again to you Dion. I'm officially enthralled with your work.

Andy, looks really good. Looking forward to hear about your maiden flight. What prop did you bolt up front?

Sailr, Like Richard I cleaned the surfaces before applying the decals, didn't touch the underside, then burnished thoroughly. I haven't had a problem as of yet, but I've only got 3 flights on mine.

Come on warmer weather!

Tom

By the way sailr, I've looked very closely at the supposed "kockoff" many have referenced on here, and I conclude that they are identical except for the decals. It's my guess that they are the same... made at the same factory or whatever... and only packaged differently for different customers. This is not unusual. For instance, I've noticed that Seagul models and Graupner models are made by the same people too. In fact, the Graupner 300S is identical to the Seagul 300S with only very minor differences in color sheme. Identical hardware and construction (FYI, I also have the Graupner 300L "LEKI" model. LOVE IT! Far superior to their 300S/Seagul 300S and only a few bucks more).

A suggestion on the decals, if you're applying to a flat surface, use some gloss clear to make a nice shiny surface for the decals to adhere to. Then use flat clear over the decals to seal them and secure them. Seems like more work but works really well.

iiiat, I originally tried a 15x8 but dropped down to a 15x6. My experience with Magnums has been that they need a bit of an extended break in period. I have a .91 on another warbird, for the first gallon or so it wouldn't pull larger than a 14x6, but I noticed that it was revving higher and higher so I switched to a 14x8.

Andy

Thanks Tom! It's fun work too, I've really enjoyed this build.

Andy, great job on your CAT!

I have to finish the wing before I can install the stab and elevators although I have all of that finished and the mechanism figured out. It will have all the control linkage concealed. One thing on the fuselage and glue used to install the bulkheads, it looks like no sanding was done to the inner surface of the fuselage before they were glued in. That is a big factor in glue adhesion in my opinion.

When it was time for me to start on the flaps I was initially going to leave them as they were, but after hinging them they looked totally unsat! So I marked the scale size area on the wing and cut the whole back of the wing off! lol I know, when will it end right? Can't say really, but I feel like I'm getting close! I used the stock torque rod, just had to cut it down a bit. The flaps are connected with a pin, glued to the inner flap and slides in a hole on the other flap.

I installed the bellcrank and it works really nice, no hatches on the wing, just cover it with balsa and forget! I'm going to cover the wing trailing edge with 1/64 ply so that the flap on top looks very small as compared to the bottom.

Dion

Question: Getting ready to install the retracts, I have 2 sets. A brand new old stock set of Rom-Air and a set of Century Jets, both are at 90 degrees when extended. Trying to decide witch ones to use but also wondering if they will be to far back, the Hellcat had a bit of forward rake in the gear. They were not at 90 degrees, for those that have installed the Century Jet gear did you modify the mounts in any way or did you just install them on the stock rails? Richard looking at your plane I can't really tell when it's sitting back on the ground, did your plane want to nose over on grass at all? Having 4" tires is definitely a plus.

Thanks for any input,

Dion

Luke,
2 possible options:, send your century jets back to CJ and get them to modify them to extend about 93 degrees (if the cj's you have just come down to a straight 90 degrees-thats what I did with the ones I bought 2nd hand- it ran me about $30.00).
Your Rhomairs may have to be shimmed on the backside of their mounts to give them a little bit of forward rake-if you do this option just be sure the wheels fit inside the wing good when you retract them. I'm thinking the CJ's would be a little bit beefier since they already have the oleo's on them . Just a thought that may help.
Later!!
John

My stock CJ retracts were 93 degrees. I just epoxied in blocks of wood to build up the stock mounts and installed them in. No tendency to nose over, even when I had 3" wheels.

Dion,
Mine are the CJ retracts. I can't remember, but the CJ's might be 95 degree? Anyway, they're installed on the stock rails and I have had no noseover issues at all. I do, however, launch from asphault, not grass.

Here you go, CJ Hellcat retract angle:



As you can see, it's not 90 degrees.

Thanks for the input all, I appreciate it! Richard that picture really makes it clear, thanks for posting it. I settled on the CJ gear, I called them and they will take the Corsair struts as part exchange. Got a great deal on the Corsair CJ's so even if I did have to pay $30 I'm still way ahead.

As soon as the gear come back I'll finish up the wing and glue the tail feathers on. I'm going to use this opportunity to demonstrate my ultra light and easy finishing system using thinned resin and thinned spot putty as a filler. Can't wait! This is going to get real fun![8D]

Anyone have a favorite Hellcat paint scheme they would like to share?

Dion

Dion your modeling skills are top notch!! Your wood work looks so good I would find it hard to cover it

Ron

www.metal-morphous.com

I like your color scheme, but in overall glossy sea blue.

Hi Richard,my plane should be here monday according to fedex,anyway i ordered my glossy sea blue,wanted to also order my decals,but not sure of the correct size for the stars and bars,the model im doing the decals are all white.Still not sure what air craft carrier logo im gonna use.But if you remember the size of your decals,id appreciate the help.

Dion:

How about this scheme.

Tri-color F6F3.

Terry