Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > ARF or RTF
Reload this Page >

Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ARF or RTF Discuss ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) radio control airplanes here.

Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Reply

Old 11-05-2012, 05:34 PM
  #3001  
rcnut101
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 100
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I dont use any twin sync's. I really dont see a need for it. I have had 3 engine out's and it flys realy well on one engine. But that is my 2 cents.
rcnut101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 05:45 PM
  #3002  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ORIGINAL: rcnut101

I dont use any twin sync's. I really dont see a need for it. I have had 3 engine out's and it flys realy well on one engine. But that is my 2 cents.
That's really good information rcnut. I've heard the Cessna 310 is pretty much dead if you have an engine out unless you immediately kill the other engine. I was thinking the B-25 might be in the same boat. I've contacted hitec regarding a warning system, through their telemetry products, which could sound an alarm if one engine goes below a certain rpm. I figured that it would be nice to be able to see each rpm from my remote, rather than using a stand alone tach, so I'm going to be installing the telemetry board as soon as I figure out how to make extensions for their optical tach and temp sensors. Seems odd that they only come with about 6" of leads with no reference to any extension cables...but that's another topic.

UPDATE:

Has anyone used the Hitec Telemetry unit in this plane? I'm reading mixed reports about the accuracy of the optical rpm and tech gauges going down as the cables get longer. If that's the case, it might be work properly on the B-25 as the engines are pretty far apart. I don't really care about the temperature information, but twin engine RPM data on my remote would be very helpful during setup...as well as providing a nice warning system if I loose one engine in flight.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 03:14 PM
  #3003  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Anyone fly the Cessna 310 and the B-25? My Cessna 310 is 22 pounds AUW and it seems to slow quickly. I'm curious if anyone has flown both and can comment on the experience. Is one easier than the other? How about engine failures, do they both handle single engine out well or is one better than the other?

I haven't had the best of luck on my Cessna 310, so I'm curious if more stick time is required before ever attempting the B-25. I thought I was a good pilot until trying to fly the Cessna at 22 pounds in 16mph winds on top of a hill. I came in to slow and stalled while at low altitude. Completely my fault and good lessons learned, but I wonder if the B-25 will handle in a similar way.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 04:46 PM
  #3004  
rcnut101
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 100
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Here is my experience with twins. My first was a KMP Tigercat which flew great but I made a few mistakes and I had an engine out and panicked and it became a frisbee and the rest was history. I did not give up. I bought another TigerCat, actually 2 of them, another esm and a ScaleWings F7F. I have esm one almost finised. In the meantime I found a used TF B-25 for a good price but had to rebuild engines. When I bought the model from some else, I should have had it set up my way because I had a nose gear wheel fall of and i did not have the engine throttle trims on the same switch and one engine died because I did not know which engine died. Long story short I spun it in. So I bought another TF B-25 and put it together in 2 1/2 weeks and started flying again. I had another engine out situation, but this time I did not panic. I pulled throttle back to let it straighten itself out and slowly advanced throttle on one engine and corrected rudder to maintain yaw. Finally I had control and success and flew it in on one engine. Since then I have had two engine out situations and a lean engine on take off last weekend and I am very comfortable with flying twins. They are not for everyone. They take a lot of time and patience unless they are electric. Im not a fan of electric twins. It takes all the challenge out of it. Kinda like hitting the "EASY" button. When Flying a twin, If a engine goes out, Always look for which wing goes high, thats your live engine and ALWAYS turn towards the high wing. Most twins will fly on one motor, P-38'S are the most feared twin due to the size of the rudder's. If you have a engine out, never use flaps to land. you always need airspeed.

Just my thoughts and experience,

Regaurds,
Doug D
rcnut101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 04:04 PM
  #3005  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Has anyone gone with an electric retract option? Or any retract option other than the Robart pneumatics?

I've opted to go with the McDaniels 472TE remote glow system with on/off switch because of their current 45% off sale. I figure a single system is easier to deal with vs. twin systems/twin batteries to charge/etc. I'm using one Smart Fly 3D system to sync the 4 flap servos, one Smart Fly 3D system to link the two elevators to the front nose wheel. I still need to find a good source for on/off switches with Deans connectors.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 05:40 PM
  #3006  
Mustang Fever
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Mustang Fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 3,225
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I've had fixed gear on mine for several years, now, and I'm looking at retracts. I'm leaning towards the Lados, but their website is confusing and I'm not sure what I should order, and I don't know of any other place to buy them.
Mustang Fever is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 11:46 AM
  #3007  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I heard that Robart will be releasing the Top Flite B-25 electric retract conversion kit shortly, followed by a full set of electric retracts. I'm still not sure of the exact date, but I will hopefully have a set for my B-25 by the end of December. I'll post some pictures of them in operation before I install them. I believe Robart has teamed up with Down-n-locked in order to make the conversion kits.

I also got an email from Gary Conley about pumps for my OS 95v engines. He recommended that I install the VP-30 for each engine. You place a T fitting near the pressure fitting on the crankcase. One end of the T goes to the pump and the other end goes to the pressure fitting on the engine. The 90 degree portion of the T is vented back into the atmosphere. That explanation sounds a lot easier to wire up than the picture on their website (http://www.perrypumps.com/Pump%20and...s%20System.pdf) which requires two T fittings. Has anyone tried using a VP-30 with their four strokes? I'm wondering if it's overkill given the tank is so close to the engine and at the same level as the crankcase. If the engines are mounted inverted, then I can see how a pump would help stop the fuel from draining out of your engine. Since I haven't begun the installation yet, I'm not sure why people have chosen to install inverted vs. on the engines side.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 07:05 AM
  #3008  
RICK9303
My Feedback: (172)
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: , NY
Posts: 256
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

To all interested in electric conversion of air retracts,

I got a email from Robart, saying they are working on the conversion now and hope to have some thing by mid Janurary. No price is set as of yet. Also said to check back on web site in a couple of weeks for news.

Rick
RICK9303 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 06:47 PM
  #3009  
umitv
My Feedback: (15)
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 29
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Mine got pair of os .55 ax and I'm out of all my glow engines. So I have two options 1) convert to electric 2) convert to gas. For gas option I'm thinking dle 20 or mintor 22. Sound is kinda too much for this plane. Is anybody tried it before???
umitv is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 09:21 PM
  #3010  
christophe31
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: quint fonsegrives, FRANCE
Posts: 152
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)


ORIGINAL: Mustang Fever

I've had fixed gear on mine for several years, now, and I'm looking at retracts. I'm leaning towards the Lados, but their website is confusing and I'm not sure what I should order, and I don't know of any other place to buy them.
Hi Bob,
I don't think my web was confuse, and many post on RCU talk about us, is you already have your air retract you simply need to order the RS666 retrofit kit, and put it in place of your air cylinder. You plug them in your receiver like your others servos, and that's all.
No sequencer is needed, as our retracts and doors are fully digital programmable.
no separate battery or separate control board just an servo cable
look here what scale effect you could have:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHoKrpBjslg[/youtube]
and
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5gn1yuPcjQ[/youtube]
and
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YHznxmQm88[/youtube]
tell me if you didn't understand something.
the magical brakes are plan to be available in the beginning of febrary.
christophe

christophe31 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 04:55 AM
  #3011  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ORIGINAL: umitv

Mine got pair of os .55 ax and I'm out of all my glow engines. So I have two options 1) convert to electric 2) convert to gas. For gas option I'm thinking dle 20 or mintor 22. Sound is kinda too much for this plane. Is anybody tried it before???
I've decided to go with OS 95v engines since they were cheaper than the OS 81a and only 1oz heavier. There were many comments on this forum about 70s being the max recommended, but I've also heard from people flying that os81s take a lot of runway to get airborne on rough grass. I have a pretty uneven grass field so the extra power won't hurt. Also, if you want to go gas, the Saito 82 is now a gas FG-14. It's the same engine, but configured for gas vs nitro. I would have grabbed these instead if not for the heavy price tag. Maybe in another year they will come down in price a bit?

Also, as for the rs666 retract conversion, are they still $100+ per retract? I've already spent $500 on a single down-n-locked conversion for my Cessna 310 and I can't justify that kind of cost again. Robart will have the same conversion for ~$250, to include a control box. I think the rs666 will be more than the robart conversion once you include three actuators...or am I wrong?

Regarding a conversion to electric engines, there is a guy on rcgroups selling his newly build and never flown b-25 with helicopter electric engines. The engines have a built in fan and he made some mounts for them. If you opt to go electric, he might be able to give you some good pointers as he just completed the build in October 2012.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 05:22 AM
  #3012  
jdhughen
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Camden, SC
Posts: 177
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

The guys at Down and Locked will convert you robarts to electric and give you a 2 year warrantee and they are in North Carolina. They had a booth at Joe Nall this year. They can convert just about any size gear/situation.

http://www.downandlocked.com/index.htm

Joel
jdhughen is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 05:57 AM
  #3013  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ORIGINAL: jdhughen

The guys at Down and Locked will convert you robarts to electric and give you a 2 year warrantee and they are in North Carolina. They had a booth at Joe Nall this year. They can convert just about any size gear/situation.

http://www.downandlocked.com/index.htm

Joel
I am a proud owner of their converted retracts. The retracts, as you would probably expect, carry a warranty for the original owner only. They still provide repair, but don't expect anything to be cheap. (I will admit that I've never had a reason to have warranty service.) Down-n-locked teamed up with Robart to make the electric retracts that Robart will be selling shortly. Since Robart is charging $250 and down n locked charges $500, I asked the guys at down-n-locked about the price delta. They happily replied "our service speaks for itself and we're not trying to compete."

Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 06:29 AM
  #3014  
christophe31
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: quint fonsegrives, FRANCE
Posts: 152
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)


ORIGINAL: Fidelity101

Also, as for the rs666 retract conversion, are they still $150 per retract? I've already spent $500 on a single down-n-locked conversion for my Cessna 310 and I can't justify that kind of cost again. Robart will have the same conversion for $250, to include a control box. I think the rs666 will be more than the robart conversion once you include three actuators...or am I wrong?
the price is 115$ ( where did you see 150$?? ) and they will come in 2013 with the robart Tbar, so to convert them , you only need to unscrew the aircylinder and change the Tbar... not a big stuff...

rgds
christophe

christophe31 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 06:41 AM
  #3015  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ORIGINAL: christophe31


ORIGINAL: Fidelity101

Also, as for the rs666 retract conversion, are they still $100+ per retract? I've already spent $500 on a single down-n-locked conversion for my Cessna 310 and I can't justify that kind of cost again. Robart will have the same conversion for ~$250, to include a control box. I think the rs666 will be more than the robart conversion once you include three actuators...or am I wrong?
the price is 115$ ( where did you see 150$?? ) and they will come in 2013 with the robart Tbar, so to convert them , you only need to unscrew the aircylinder and change the Tbar... not a big stuff...

rgds
christophe

Do you mind giving us some comparisons on your gear vs. the Robart electric conversion? I like the idea of not using a box to control the gear, but I'd like to have more information as I am actively looking for a set of retracts.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 06:43 AM
  #3016  
Mustang Fever
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Mustang Fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 3,225
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Christophe:

Thanks for the reply. I still have fixed gear on my B-25, and need to know what to order to put Lado electric retracts (and brakes- when they become available) on it.

The website specifies which retracts I need, but I also need to know how to order struts. The website talks about measuring for struts but there is no instructions on how to order them.

I do not like Robart. I have had nothing but bad experience with them and will never use them again.
Mustang Fever is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 06:56 AM
  #3017  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Mustang, do you mind sharing your reasons regarding Robarts? I've heard of several people breaking the nose gear on landing, but there was an easy fix for that. Maybe I should stop with the price quotes as they probably change over time anyway. I'm really interested in a set of retracts as I'm starting out with nothing...much like you are apparently. I'd need struts and retracts.

I must say that the down n locked gear work very well on the Cessna and I would probably do that again if money wasn't so tight. I haven't tried Lados but I've heard good things.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 07:21 AM
  #3018  
christophe31
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: quint fonsegrives, FRANCE
Posts: 152
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ORIGINAL: Fidelity101

ORIGINAL: christophe31


ORIGINAL: Fidelity101

Also, as for the rs666 retract conversion, are they still $100+ per retract? I've already spent $500 on a single down-n-locked conversion for my Cessna 310 and I can't justify that kind of cost again. Robart will have the same conversion for ~$250, to include a control box. I think the rs666 will be more than the robart conversion once you include three actuators...or am I wrong?
the price is 115$ ( where did you see 150$?? ) and they will come in 2013 with the robart Tbar, so to convert them , you only need to unscrew the aircylinder and change the Tbar... not a big stuff...

rgds
christophe

Do you mind giving us some comparisons on your gear vs. the Robart electric conversion? I like the idea of not using a box to control the gear, but I'd like to have more information as I am actively looking for a set of retracts.
extremly simple:
1 - we use one control card for each unit, this increase the cost of the manufacturing, but the scale issue is the programming.It is very easy and you can do what you want :
door staying open
door closed after legs down
any delay from 0 to 15 s in each way
reverse option.
this make our system the most scaled one , and the most simpliest one to use, no separate battery, no control card to put in the fuse, everything is like a normal servos. you plug our retracts and door on one channel in your receievr and that's all.

2 - we use aluminium labelled aviation to machining the retract with our CNC, the material is more expensive than normal aluminium and CNC is more expensive to do than the pieces done by lathe.
3- unfotunatly we produce in Euro, and with the change Euro /Dollars we are a little more expense than if we produce in dollars.

@ mustang fever:
the legs are on the accessories section of my web.

i'm like you, modeler, and flew with my products, and go in many show all over europe, i expect going one day ( the sooner i can... ) on US air show.
i do the products i'm dreamin for.
we don't let the customer alone even several years.... we have customer since 2007 and we upgrade or do warranty service even several years.
i'm always answering to mail even on sunday ( when i'm not flying.... ok...) and now we develop a giant size retracts and actuators as many company asking us for the big big scale...
you will love the brakes as they'll be revolutionar....


be carefull with the FG14, mine was impossible to set, i've loosing my B-25 in cause of them. i don't know if they have increase them, but mine was the first production and was ΓΉ*"#@iit
christophe31 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 01:14 PM
  #3019  
Mustang Fever
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Mustang Fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 3,225
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Fidelity:

I had a set of their air up/spring down units in an F-4 Phantom (prop in the nose). The valve they included in the kit was too restrictive, wouldn't let the air out of the units fast enough, and consequently they hung up on almost anything, sometimes nothing at all. I made several gear up landings before figuring this out and going to a less restrictive valve. (I think I ended up using one of their gear door valves. Push it and it lets all the air out of things.)

Then I had a set of mains for a 60 size Mustang, big ones, 3/8 OD robo struts. All they did was bend like crazy, even on takeoff. I'd make a takeoff, and end up with a gear up landing because one or the other would bend and get bound up on the wheel well. These were air down, and the slightest thing would hang them up, even at 120psi in the system. That's what caused me to swear off air retracts for good. Never again.

Finally, my TF Mustang 60 ARF came with a set of crap mechanical retracts, and I replaced them with Robart HDs because those are the only 85 degree mechanical retracts on the market, and at the time, Eflite didn't have the 60 size electrics available. Robart manufactured those retracts such that the set screw cannot be turned in far enough to engage the slot on the wire legs, so the dang things won't stay put and nothing but trouble, trouble, trouble.

I'm convinced the people at Robart never test anything before they market it, and won't ever buy any of their products again. I'd have to say I've never been more thoroughly disgusted with a supplier than I am with Robart.
Mustang Fever is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 01:53 PM
  #3020  
Mustang Fever
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Mustang Fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 3,225
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Christophe:

I went to your website and found the downloadable, dimension drawings for the struts and retracts. With that information, it is easy to calculate the length of strut to order for various applications.

I'll probably order a set of RS333 85 degree for my TF P-51, sometime next summer. If they work OK, I'll get the RS333 90 mains and 105 nose for my B-25.

Thanks for your help. The website would work better if the button labled "download" was instead called "RS333 blueprint" and "RS333 strut blueprint", or something like that. Just calling them downloads causes them to be overlooked.

Also, it says on the website that the struts come with wheels, etc. Where can I find out what size wheels?
Mustang Fever is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2012, 06:26 AM
  #3021  
Fidelity101
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clarence, NY
Posts: 111
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Thank you for the information Mustang. This thread was created back in 2007 and it seems most people have been going with Robart retracts. I wanted to give their new electric retracts a shot, but I have no idea when they're really going to start selling them. The last time I called them, they gave me an estimated shipping date of last Friday. I am sure things are crazy with the holiday, new year, and all of the new rules being implemented for United States companies.

With all of that being said, I would really like to get my hands on a pair of electric retracts so I can start building this monster. Unless I have missed it, and I am only on page 71, I have not seen anyone discuss their experiences with anything other than Robart retracts. I am starting to wonder how difficult it would be to build the plane with fixed gear and later convert to electric retracts?

Also, since other people have discussed using a Gyro that can be turned on and off... I have been giving some thought to using this three axis Gyro in the B 25. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCUCV&P=ML
I plan on using it in my revolver 70 first to see how it handles. In 2-D mode it keeps the wings level when you let go of the sticks. I am not sure how it would react to a sudden yaw shift from a single engine out.
Fidelity101 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2012, 01:36 PM
  #3022  
Mustang Fever
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Mustang Fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 3,225
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Fidelity:

The assembly book says TF specifically designed the Mitchell such that it would be easy to change from the factory supplied fixed gear to retracts. The fixed gear mounts mimic the shape and hole pattern of retracts.

I'm about to get into fixed wing airplane gyro application myself. I've been thinking rudder only for my TF Mustang and the Mitchell, as they are so difficult to keep straight on a paved runway in any kind of crosswind. I'm also working on a Dan Savage F-4 Phantom (EDF) that will have a rudder only gyro.

IMHO, the Mitchell doesn't need three axis, it's that easy to fly. (You wouldn't want it on a crosswind landing, anyhoo, as the neat part of rudder only is that it will track parallel to the runway, while you use a variable amount of aileron into the wind to keep it aligned over the center of the runway. They call it crossed controls when i was taking primary flight training about 100 years ago.)

On the Mitchell, if you go to a gyro, I'd suggest that you not turn it off in flight. If you lose an engine, things are going to happen rather quickly and you might not get it turned back on in time. After almost three years of learning to fly helis, I've acquired the habit of using the rudder stick in turns. This overrides the gyro and allows a normal turn. Takes a bit of getting used to, but it works.

Electric retracts are inherently more powerful than air ops, due to the worm gearing. The motor has a tremendous mechanical advantage over the strut block because of it. On air ops, it's a reverse lever system, and it's not possible to make the cylinders large enough to generate the kind of power the electrics can. Even at 120 psi a half inch piston will generate less than 50 pounds of thrust. After going through the reverse lever system I doubt if the force on the strut block equals 10 pounds.
Mustang Fever is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 01:51 PM
  #3023  
RICK9303
My Feedback: (172)
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: , NY
Posts: 256
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Does any one know besides Glennis, does some one make a set of more scale wheels and tires?
RICK9303 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 08:25 PM
  #3024  
Mustang Fever
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Mustang Fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 3,225
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Everyone get their "Model Aviation" yesterday? Read the article on the new TF giant scale FW-190 ARF? Note the use of Robart electric retracts? And the part about if you turn the power on to the airplane several times in a row with the retracts down, they lock up and you have to manually turn the worm to free them up or you'll have a set of fixed mains on your bird?

GO ROBART!!!! [:'(] I'm sure everyone will line up to buy their electric retracts, now. Rotsa ruck, G.I. Overpriced junk.
Mustang Fever is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2012, 03:19 PM
  #3025  
kochj
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria, MN
Posts: 3,933
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I was wondering when +.90 size 4 strokes would be run in this one....

Anyone order up the Evolution .60 gasoline 2-stroke engine and place it in this one?
Seems like a reliable, and inexspensive fuel choice... .
kochj is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service