Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
#76
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Allen and KC welcome along.
Allen,
Been missing you at the field hope you can get some stick time soon.
The fuse was replummed on the bench to work on the Horizontal stab. Careful measuring and sanding here to get the stab level and at the 0 degree incidence. The stab will get covered before installation.
Next is the balsa rudder post. Template is cut from plans and glued to the balsa stock with 3M mounting adhesive. Sand to shape and it's done. It's sanded to fit by hand and will be set 1/8 in behind the fuse TE. Made a "feeler gage" to be consistent. Once the fit good I measured the midline and drilled then placed the Robart hingpoints. Last is to cut glue then drill the 1/2x1 in balsa blocks to the post to give the hingpoints more purchase.
Allen,
Been missing you at the field hope you can get some stick time soon.
The fuse was replummed on the bench to work on the Horizontal stab. Careful measuring and sanding here to get the stab level and at the 0 degree incidence. The stab will get covered before installation.
Next is the balsa rudder post. Template is cut from plans and glued to the balsa stock with 3M mounting adhesive. Sand to shape and it's done. It's sanded to fit by hand and will be set 1/8 in behind the fuse TE. Made a "feeler gage" to be consistent. Once the fit good I measured the midline and drilled then placed the Robart hingpoints. Last is to cut glue then drill the 1/2x1 in balsa blocks to the post to give the hingpoints more purchase.
#77
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
I felt it would be easier to set the tailwheel mount before gluing on the stab. Measure for midline the TE of the plate is 1/2 in from the fuse TE. Drill the 7/32 holes. Blind nuts set in the mount plate and I used Aeropoxy to glue it in. The bottom of the plate was "buttered" with Aeropoxy so no void would be present between the fiberglass and the wood. The plate is then secured with the leaf spring using 8-32 cap screws and allowed to cure. Be careful not to get Aeropoxy near the threads. Ran a fillet on both sides of the plate and it's done.
Pete
Pete
#79
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Thinking ahead I wanted to install the Antenna tube before the stab. Much easier to access and move the fuse around. Using the covering heat gun I bent the 36in tube and marked out it's run. The fuse was prepped and the tube sanded for adhesion. Tube then tack glued with thick CA then epoxied with fiberglass cloth.
Pete
Pete
#80
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Well I'll admit I was intimidated about using Koverall having never used it before but it's just about the easiest covering I've worked with Stab and elevators were final sanded the given a coat of Stix-it. While I didn't take the temp of the iron I had it set well below the temp for Ultracoat. The material shrunk nicely too. The covering under the overlapping seam was coated with Stix-it then covered. Two coats of nitrate dope and done.
Reset the fuse and checked for level. Final fit and sanding of the stab for 0 incidence. Tac glued with thick CA. Fiberglass and epoxy both sides of the stab. Epoxied the dowel spacer for the flying wires. Will seal up the tail next.
Pete
Reset the fuse and checked for level. Final fit and sanding of the stab for 0 incidence. Tac glued with thick CA. Fiberglass and epoxy both sides of the stab. Epoxied the dowel spacer for the flying wires. Will seal up the tail next.
Pete
#81
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Last work for the weekend[8D]
Vertical stab trailing edge had already been fitted. I had trouble getting it out and adjusting so I bent some wire and with tape held them in position. This allowed me to pull the balsa forward to adjust depth. When the epoxy sets I'll push them through and they will fall into the fuse. Made a couple of compression brackets per instructions. Epoxied the TE in place and checked for level.
Pete
Vertical stab trailing edge had already been fitted. I had trouble getting it out and adjusting so I bent some wire and with tape held them in position. This allowed me to pull the balsa forward to adjust depth. When the epoxy sets I'll push them through and they will fall into the fuse. Made a couple of compression brackets per instructions. Epoxied the TE in place and checked for level.
Pete
#85
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Spent a good bit of time in the shop with TS Fay dumping rain on us [&o]
Shaping the Rudder took a fair bit of time to get it right and allow the 2 1/2 in throw needed. Taped the fuse to protect it then rough sanded the Rudder then fine sanding with a T bar. The Rudder trailing edge is thicker than the plans call for to give it a better scale look. I tried to have a nice rounded LE but to get 2 1/2 inches of throw calls for a sharper V cut. Even with the V cut I was still over 1/2 in short. The instructions suggest you may need to remove the 1/8 in fiberglass that hides the Rudder hinge gap to get enough throw. Instead I took some 1/16 balsa as a filler and sanded the fiberglass down to it giving 1/16 to hide the hinge line. After much trial and sanding we got the throw needed and it looks good.
Pete
Shaping the Rudder took a fair bit of time to get it right and allow the 2 1/2 in throw needed. Taped the fuse to protect it then rough sanded the Rudder then fine sanding with a T bar. The Rudder trailing edge is thicker than the plans call for to give it a better scale look. I tried to have a nice rounded LE but to get 2 1/2 inches of throw calls for a sharper V cut. Even with the V cut I was still over 1/2 in short. The instructions suggest you may need to remove the 1/8 in fiberglass that hides the Rudder hinge gap to get enough throw. Instead I took some 1/16 balsa as a filler and sanded the fiberglass down to it giving 1/16 to hide the hinge line. After much trial and sanding we got the throw needed and it looks good.
Pete
#86
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
My kit is missing several items needed to make the pushrods so waiting for parts.
Worked on the stab flying wires some. Took 4-40 clevises cut off the leaf with the post then drilled it for a 2-56 screw. The screw and locknut fit perfect. Also fitted the mounting bracket to the stab. Tried to make my own threaded rods but the threading didn't turn out well enough to work.
KC
found some Stainless Steel stock to make new brackets arriving with the other goodies.
Worked on the stab flying wires some. Took 4-40 clevises cut off the leaf with the post then drilled it for a 2-56 screw. The screw and locknut fit perfect. Also fitted the mounting bracket to the stab. Tried to make my own threaded rods but the threading didn't turn out well enough to work.
KC
found some Stainless Steel stock to make new brackets arriving with the other goodies.
#88
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Still waiting for parts...
So worked on the Tailwheel. You need to solder a #4 washer to act as a weight bearing surface for the tailwheel bushing and for the tire. Then drill out the tire hub with a #29 drill bit. File a flat spot for the collar on the tire and the steering arm as well as using blue locktight. Last is to install the 2-56 threaded ball links in the outer holes of the steering arm.
So worked on the Tailwheel. You need to solder a #4 washer to act as a weight bearing surface for the tailwheel bushing and for the tire. Then drill out the tire hub with a #29 drill bit. File a flat spot for the collar on the tire and the steering arm as well as using blue locktight. Last is to install the 2-56 threaded ball links in the outer holes of the steering arm.
#89
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Was going over the servo layout for the Rudder, Elevators and Throttle. Going left to right the plans call for the Rudder servo then both Elevator servos then the throttle servo. The Rudder is setup as a "Pull-Pull" with it being off to the side I think the geometry will be off and it will bind or stall the servo. I was under the impression the servo should be in the center with the pushrods coming off equidistant to the Rudder horns. The photo show the alternate setup going left to right is Elevator, Rudder, Elevator then throttle servo.
Any comments welcome.
Pete
The second photo is of the stock layout you can see the Rudder setup at the top with the two Elevator servos in the middle.
Any comments welcome.
Pete
The second photo is of the stock layout you can see the Rudder setup at the top with the two Elevator servos in the middle.
#90
RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: Rocketman612
............. with it being off to the side I think the geometry will be off and it will bind or stall the servo.............Any comments welcome.
............. with it being off to the side I think the geometry will be off and it will bind or stall the servo.............Any comments welcome.
Pete, as long as the servo control horn remains parallel to the tail wheel tiler there will be no binding. no reason that i can see to not put the rudder in the center though, cuts down on controls crossing and proximity to one another.
#91
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Mine is set up like the pictures in the build manual. In fact it is the one of the planes that was constructed to make this manual. However there is nothing wrong with putting the rudder servo in the middle.
Remember also that the servo cases were larger when this was first built in the mid 90s. the maint thing is to get the controls where they don't rub or bind. The fuselage is long enough that the rudder servo can be set to one side if needed with no adverse affect on this particular airplane. The tailwheel springs are a bit weak. It wouldn't hurt to take one to your local hardware store and see if you can find something about twice as stiff. Dont worry about feed back to the servo as about any late model servo that you choose will have more than enough gear train strength.
Remember also that the servo cases were larger when this was first built in the mid 90s. the maint thing is to get the controls where they don't rub or bind. The fuselage is long enough that the rudder servo can be set to one side if needed with no adverse affect on this particular airplane. The tailwheel springs are a bit weak. It wouldn't hurt to take one to your local hardware store and see if you can find something about twice as stiff. Dont worry about feed back to the servo as about any late model servo that you choose will have more than enough gear train strength.
#93
RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: Rocketman612
Another rain filled weekend to work in the shop.
Another rain filled weekend to work in the shop.
#94
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Worked on wheels and reproducing the flying wire anchor using Stainless Steel. Made the anchor for the bottom wires also.
The wheels come with several different bushing sizes choose the 3/16 ones for the axle. Used balsa scrap to handle and seat them while gluing. The outer hub half needs to be drilled with a 3/16 bit. Screw the hub together with the self tapping screws. Redrill the axle holes to make sure they line up and to make sure there is no binding on the axle.
The bottom flying wire anchor mount is made from stainless steel bent over and has a 6cm length, It's drilled in the middle for the 8-32 tailwheel mount screw and on the ends with a 0.169 bit for the flying wire connector. Edges rounded and bent to shape.
Pete
The wheels come with several different bushing sizes choose the 3/16 ones for the axle. Used balsa scrap to handle and seat them while gluing. The outer hub half needs to be drilled with a 3/16 bit. Screw the hub together with the self tapping screws. Redrill the axle holes to make sure they line up and to make sure there is no binding on the axle.
The bottom flying wire anchor mount is made from stainless steel bent over and has a 6cm length, It's drilled in the middle for the 8-32 tailwheel mount screw and on the ends with a 0.169 bit for the flying wire connector. Edges rounded and bent to shape.
Pete
#95
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Radio installation calls for fitting the nylon exit guides then gluing to the blue nyrod tubes. I epoxied mine in place and later found that they didn't line up as well as they should have and were binding. I had to bend the 2-56 threaded rod some as well as remove some of the guide with the Dremmel to eliminate bindng. Recommend fitting everything and adjust the nyrod exit guide so it lines up better before gluing. The Rudder nyrods do cross in the fuse and need to be supported. 1/4 hardwood stock is used drilled in center for a dowel the tubes go around. The support is tack glued then fiberglassed in place. The black circles were drawn on the outside of the fuse with a sharpie marker to help me keep the position while gluing. Zip ties used to hold the tubes together. The tubes and yellow nyrods were cut to length per instructions and fitted with 2-56 threaded rod and ball clevises for the rudder and the threaded end of a 2-56 pushrod soldered to a clevis at the servo end.
Pete
Pete
#97
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Finished up servo installation by making the two elevator pushrods using the carbon fiber shafts from the wing build. One end is threaded for a 4-40 ball clevis at the elevator, the other end is a 4-40 rod that will be cut and have the clevis soldered on. The pushrods are crossed in the fuse. The clevis keepers were a PITA when trying to get the clevis on the control horn so I will use glow fuel tubing later. Have not decided where to place the switches yet. The plans locate it on the underside of the wing faring. Checked Rudder and Elevator at full deflection and nothing binds or strikes another surface.
Pete
Pete
#98
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Finished the tail flying wires. Placed the fuse back on the jig and measured the horizontal stab distance to the bench top. Kept measuring with the addition of each finished wire to be sure I didn't move it off line. The Stainless Steel bolt was measured and cut to length. A nylon lock nut is used to keep it secure. The Anchoring plates needed a 35deg bend to line them up with the clevises which were bent as well. The 4-40 rods were rough cut then marked cut and soldered to the clevis. Took some time as soldering isn't my best skill [X(] After the top was done the bottom was done the same way. The anchoring plate goes on top of the tailwheel mount to keep to plate and screws from chaffing the fiberglass. The final results look great and was well worth the effort. If you build this kit you have to have flying wires to make it look right.
Pete
Pete
#100
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: DAN REISS
Hi Pete, How did you get the elevator pushods to cross without making contact. It looks like the elevator servos are mounted to the same surface. Did you have one of the pushrods with the connector ends up and the other down? Dan.
Hi Pete, How did you get the elevator pushods to cross without making contact. It looks like the elevator servos are mounted to the same surface. Did you have one of the pushrods with the connector ends up and the other down? Dan.
Dan,
The right exit is slightly lower than the left. There are outlines for the exit guides marked into the fiberglass where to locate them. The pushrods do barely touch and I'm going to glue a piece of felt at the crossover to prevent any chaffing.
Pete