KMP Stuka-build details
#201
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Test flew Stuka today in dead calm conditions, left spats off to sort out landings.Saito 100 plenty of power, criuseing around on half throttle, looks real good in the low fast flybys, a good companion for my me109.
#202
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Another 6 flights on Stuka today.No sign of centre section cracking, full power dives from hight model actually creates a high pitched whistle.Saito 100 plenty of power, this plane would fly on a good 90.Made up a heavy spinner from bar stock but still needed a4OZ LEAD BLOCK ALTHOUGH C OF G IS A BIT FOWARD OF THE MARK.Fys as good as my 109 maybe even better. ll fit my bomb soon it fills with flour or talcum powder and blows apart on impact[with a cloud of flour]
#204
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Some more flights yesterday, wing still ok no problems but will have to shim up landing gear due to slop in wing.Had 18 flights so far.
#206
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
The slop is in the blocks in the wing that the landing gear pushes into.also having trouble keeping cowl screws in, might bhave to epoxy wooden blocks in to screw on to, otherwise a great flyer.
#207
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Well, i've been eye'ing off this model for some time now. pretty much ever since it was released actually. the only thing that stopped me previously is that it wasn't a berta, but it looks like i've picked up ProscaleRC's Stuka, so i hope to finish the assembly and get this thing flying!
Just out of interest, has anyone fitted oleos to the stuka? i haven't seen the model first hand yet but was just thinking about it.
thanks
dave
Just out of interest, has anyone fitted oleos to the stuka? i haven't seen the model first hand yet but was just thinking about it.
thanks
dave
#208
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: manchester, AE, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
the hole in the block can be drilled out, and a brass sleeve glued into the block, you need to be accurate, and the brass must be a good fit on the leg, this is a fix i have used for many years with this tyoe of undercart mount, i have had a look at my instruction master, and the cowl blocks are mentioned, page 11, illustration 52 bit of chinese english, but is there, bottom left hand corner of the illsustration that refers to the cowl, although it calls it a conopy, IF we have the same instructions, that is!!!!
#210
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
On closer inspection,the blocks in the wing are aluminium and don"t have much movement after all. The problem is the recess the leg sittes in [ in the actual wing]has been cut too low so the clamps dont actuly clamp the wire so the wire [after a few flights] just slogs back and forward. To rectify this i just inserted a piece of 1/16 ply ander the leg to take up the slack.I probaly should have gave this area more attention as they didn"t pull up as tight as i thought they should.
#211
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Just been doing more flying with Stuka. Thi time i removed all lead and it flew even better, greased on a few landings at super low speed with full flap. The c of g is now about 3mm behind recommended mark and all i've added is 5 pine blockes to attach the cowl screws too. I also turned up own spinner to counteract weight but even with heavy spinner take offs are dead straight with just a hint of right rudder, all this on a Saito 100.
#212
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Well, after 2 SOLID days of work on the stuka i've been able to maiden her today.
What a great flying model!!!!! it performs beauiful and very scale like. the full power passes sound great! She is a little slippery on landing, and so i've increased the flap throw to get a little better control of seed on landing.
I needed 300g of lead in the front of the cowl in the end to bring the CoG into range.
Thanks
dave
What a great flying model!!!!! it performs beauiful and very scale like. the full power passes sound great! She is a little slippery on landing, and so i've increased the flap throw to get a little better control of seed on landing.
I needed 300g of lead in the front of the cowl in the end to bring the CoG into range.
Thanks
dave
#213
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
25 flights now, no problem with wing, made tailwheel look better by removing spring and cutting it shorter , still mounting in same place but only about half an inch long leg.
#215
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hey Rockz
Nope, just the original item that came with the kit that's been painted.
I like your idea on the tailwheel wire mod. will have to borrow that one. Actually, the bracket that bolts onto the bottom of the rudder to drive the tailwheel was found broken before the first flight! i CA'd it at the field, fully expecting it not to last but mearly to get the thing flying. so while i'm in the area fixing, i may as well mod it too.
The only problem is that i'm busy packing my bags because i head out in 2 days for 3 weeks in Europe for work... no RC models for me!
Thanks
dave
Nope, just the original item that came with the kit that's been painted.
I like your idea on the tailwheel wire mod. will have to borrow that one. Actually, the bracket that bolts onto the bottom of the rudder to drive the tailwheel was found broken before the first flight! i CA'd it at the field, fully expecting it not to last but mearly to get the thing flying. so while i'm in the area fixing, i may as well mod it too.
The only problem is that i'm busy packing my bags because i head out in 2 days for 3 weeks in Europe for work... no RC models for me!
Thanks
dave
#216
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Yes i had broblems with that bracket too , made a new one out of brass and silver soldered the vcollet to it, no more slipping now.Bye the way, what engine are you using?
#219
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hey guys,
I've heard of the wing centre section cracking, but i just found this on mine..... it's the section just behind the cowl but forward of the wing seat.
I've only had about 5-6 flights on her so far.. i poured thin CA into it, an then a small layer of thick on top to see how it holds, but if it re-cracks or gets any bigger, i'm going to have to remove the tank and reglass in there[:@].
Meanwhile i have a replacement tailwheel i'll show you guys in the next few days... heaps better than the stock unit that looks so dicky. i have cleaned up my wiring, and labled the extensions to make plugging in the wing servos a little easier. The bombs are also in from hobby-lobby and i have assembled them. now i'm throwing ideas around of the best way to attach them without having to make too many holes in the wing.[X(]
Thanks
Dave
I've heard of the wing centre section cracking, but i just found this on mine..... it's the section just behind the cowl but forward of the wing seat.
I've only had about 5-6 flights on her so far.. i poured thin CA into it, an then a small layer of thick on top to see how it holds, but if it re-cracks or gets any bigger, i'm going to have to remove the tank and reglass in there[:@].
Meanwhile i have a replacement tailwheel i'll show you guys in the next few days... heaps better than the stock unit that looks so dicky. i have cleaned up my wiring, and labled the extensions to make plugging in the wing servos a little easier. The bombs are also in from hobby-lobby and i have assembled them. now i'm throwing ideas around of the best way to attach them without having to make too many holes in the wing.[X(]
Thanks
Dave
#220
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MosmanNSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hi Dave,
If you are going to CA it, you need to stop-drill the crack first. Stop-drilling is what they do in the aircraft industry when any composite material cracks. You need to drill a hole at each end of the carck (about 3mm). This will stop the crack from travelling.
Cheers,
James
If you are going to CA it, you need to stop-drill the crack first. Stop-drilling is what they do in the aircraft industry when any composite material cracks. You need to drill a hole at each end of the carck (about 3mm). This will stop the crack from travelling.
Cheers,
James
#221
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hey Proscalerc,
I have never seen stop-drilling in fullsized aviation done on composite parts.... i have with aluminium, but not composite.
The best/correct repair would be to cut a V along the crack and then lay some more glass along the cracked area, but this is near on impossible from the inside( to cut the "V") and too much work on the outside. I'm hoping it has cracked there because of vibration and not stress. but the next few flights will tell if i need a bigger repair[&o]
Thanks
Dave
P.S. what did you clear the model with?
I have never seen stop-drilling in fullsized aviation done on composite parts.... i have with aluminium, but not composite.
The best/correct repair would be to cut a V along the crack and then lay some more glass along the cracked area, but this is near on impossible from the inside( to cut the "V") and too much work on the outside. I'm hoping it has cracked there because of vibration and not stress. but the next few flights will tell if i need a bigger repair[&o]
Thanks
Dave
P.S. what did you clear the model with?
#222
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MosmanNSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
I used Monokote Flat Clear... I sprayed in on with super light coats as it goes glossy if you apply it like normal acrylic.
#223
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: not applicable, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
well after 28 flights i went to refuel again but due to a stuck fuellor valve had to turn the plane upside down and guess what? Yes thats right a crack threw the centre section[just luck i had to tip it over]Supplier waiting on wing so instead of waiting i decided to repair.First i gut away the glass covering to open up the bat to find the brace is 1/8 lite ply with lightning holes everwhere no wondor it broke.First i made up 6 mm brace from gull wing attachment boxes [like a normal dihedral brace]clamped in place then reglued original crace and packed it out with 1/4 balsa. Reskinned with 1.5 balsa and glassed over this.After a repaint have flown it again no trim changes and flyes just the same , just chack ater every flight for any cracking!
#224
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Green Point NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
This is exactly the situation I was warning about some time ago with the center cracking. Your assessment of the build up of the manufacturers center section is quite accurate.
Hopefully you have fixed the manufacturers defect and it won't end up like the one described by me some time ago.
May I further take this opportunity to recommend other owners consider my original recommendation of glassing the center wing section. I am no expert but I know a duck when I see one.
All the best
Mark
Hopefully you have fixed the manufacturers defect and it won't end up like the one described by me some time ago.
May I further take this opportunity to recommend other owners consider my original recommendation of glassing the center wing section. I am no expert but I know a duck when I see one.
All the best
Mark