50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
06-08-2008 | 08:28 PM
#1126
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Appleton,
WI
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
I have looked, and I can't find it. I know the Honda Sukhoi is True Red, Ultracote. I have the yellow and red Sukhoi, and I want some red for the hinge gaps. I bought flame red, since it looked right with the clear wrapper on. Well,... with the rapper off it isn't even close[:@]. Does anyone know what color it really is?[sm=confused.gif]
06-08-2008 | 08:35 PM
#1127
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Hi, Im a newbie to the forum and giant scale. I just got my WH Sukhoi from Tom and I am pleased with the looks. I bought the combo deal with TOC 3mm and hardware package. A couple of questions with regard to my airframe:
1.) The firewall already had a 1 1/4" hole bored in it. The engine came with a paper template that looks like it is designed to be superimposed over this hole. My hardware package did not include 5mm engine bolts and none are available locally. They needed to be 2 3/4" with 1" dowel spacers. I made the decision to mill out the engine holes to accept a 1/4" bolt. Hardly removed any material. I am hoping that everything I did was okay because the directions don't talk about the template or the hole. I also noticed there were 1/8" plywood plates; one labeled DA 50 and one labeled TOC 3MM. I am assuming that these were also templates. If I am suppose to add one of these to the firewall please let me know because I have already mounted the engine. Sure hope using the paper template was the right thing to do.
2.) Surprisingly enough all control surfaces and hinges were glued. Tom told me that all of his models will eventually come that way. It seems that a few of the hinges were every so slightly inserted to far and the gaps between control surface and mating structure were tight resulting in some limited deflection. I would guess that I have about 25 degrees or more on the aileron which Tom told me is plenty. The rudder does come with hinges installed/glued in the rudder flap.
Well, this is as far as I've got so any help would be appreciated.
1.) The firewall already had a 1 1/4" hole bored in it. The engine came with a paper template that looks like it is designed to be superimposed over this hole. My hardware package did not include 5mm engine bolts and none are available locally. They needed to be 2 3/4" with 1" dowel spacers. I made the decision to mill out the engine holes to accept a 1/4" bolt. Hardly removed any material. I am hoping that everything I did was okay because the directions don't talk about the template or the hole. I also noticed there were 1/8" plywood plates; one labeled DA 50 and one labeled TOC 3MM. I am assuming that these were also templates. If I am suppose to add one of these to the firewall please let me know because I have already mounted the engine. Sure hope using the paper template was the right thing to do.
2.) Surprisingly enough all control surfaces and hinges were glued. Tom told me that all of his models will eventually come that way. It seems that a few of the hinges were every so slightly inserted to far and the gaps between control surface and mating structure were tight resulting in some limited deflection. I would guess that I have about 25 degrees or more on the aileron which Tom told me is plenty. The rudder does come with hinges installed/glued in the rudder flap.
Well, this is as far as I've got so any help would be appreciated.
06-08-2008 | 08:55 PM
#1128
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
You made one of the 2 choices you had the paper or wood template you can use either one. 1/4 inch bolts are fine will be no problem I would use nylon locknuts on the back if you have not done so a little extra insurance never hurts there. get some thin CA and go over ALL the joints you can get to!!! As far as throws yeah 25 degrees is plenty
06-08-2008 | 11:27 PM
#1129
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: Flyer Freq
I have looked, and I can't find it. I know the Honda Sukhoi is True Red, Ultracote. I have the yellow and red Sukhoi, and I want some red for the hinge gaps. I bought flame red, since it looked right with the clear wrapper on. Well,... with the rapper off it isn't even close[:@]. Does anyone know what color it really is?[sm=confused.gif]
I have looked, and I can't find it. I know the Honda Sukhoi is True Red, Ultracote. I have the yellow and red Sukhoi, and I want some red for the hinge gaps. I bought flame red, since it looked right with the clear wrapper on. Well,... with the rapper off it isn't even close[:@]. Does anyone know what color it really is?[sm=confused.gif]
TF
06-09-2008 | 12:09 AM
#1130
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Hey Tom,
I guess it is just as easy to ask you here than bug you on the phone. I am that annoying guy in Ohio who just bought a Honda Suk 50cc and my buddy an extra. Have some mercy, this is only my second plane that runs on liquid so my experience with setup is pretty much restricted to electric or nitro helis. Couple of build questions:
1.) I got the 5945 servo package and have no idea as to what crank arm for the rudder I should use
2.) Is there any template that exists for cutting out the cowl for cylinder, plug wire, and stock TOC 3MM muffler? Would hate to screw up a beautiful cowl
3.) Can you recommend what batteries and how many I should use (TOC 3MM, 5945s, JR 9 channel, 1 rudder servo).
4.) How many switches do I need, I bought the MPI that has a battery level indicator along with charging port. Do I need one for the ignition battery as well or can I pigtail them into one switch?
That should be enough to keep me puzzled for awhile. Thanks again for your great product and service.
I guess it is just as easy to ask you here than bug you on the phone. I am that annoying guy in Ohio who just bought a Honda Suk 50cc and my buddy an extra. Have some mercy, this is only my second plane that runs on liquid so my experience with setup is pretty much restricted to electric or nitro helis. Couple of build questions:
1.) I got the 5945 servo package and have no idea as to what crank arm for the rudder I should use
2.) Is there any template that exists for cutting out the cowl for cylinder, plug wire, and stock TOC 3MM muffler? Would hate to screw up a beautiful cowl
3.) Can you recommend what batteries and how many I should use (TOC 3MM, 5945s, JR 9 channel, 1 rudder servo).
4.) How many switches do I need, I bought the MPI that has a battery level indicator along with charging port. Do I need one for the ignition battery as well or can I pigtail them into one switch?
That should be enough to keep me puzzled for awhile. Thanks again for your great product and service.
06-09-2008 | 12:10 AM
#1131
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: roboto65
You made one of the 2 choices you had the paper or wood template you can use either one. 1/4 inch bolts are fine will be no problem I would use nylon locknuts on the back if you have not done so a little extra insurance never hurts there. get some thin CA and go over ALL the joints you can get to!!! As far as throws yeah 25 degrees is plenty
You made one of the 2 choices you had the paper or wood template you can use either one. 1/4 inch bolts are fine will be no problem I would use nylon locknuts on the back if you have not done so a little extra insurance never hurts there. get some thin CA and go over ALL the joints you can get to!!! As far as throws yeah 25 degrees is plenty
06-09-2008 | 12:21 AM
#1132
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
Engine Mounting
Tom sent me this note the other day that applies to mounting the 3mm engine. The same information is in the manual but I thought I would post it here as well. Mounting the 3mm-53 really is this easy in the Sukhoi.
I made the mounting template and marked the firewall last night so the engine is just about ready to go on. The firewall center line is in the middle of the firewall pass through cut out so you'll need to use a couple of pieces of masking tape to mark on. Too easy. I'll post some pics of the process a bit later.
Copy of note:
I mounted the 3mm 53 on the Sukhoi today.
You will need 1" standoffs to get about 1/4" clearance between the prop
and the cowl. I just cut 4 1" pieces of 3/4" hardwood dowel and
drilled
the center. I also put a washer between the engine and the dowel to
keep it from compressing.
Make a template of the engine with the 4 mounting lugs and a small
hole where the centerline of the crank is. You can find a little bump
in the center of the rear bearing carrier, that's the centerline.
Find the center of the firewall and make a mark 1/4" to the left
(*right when looking at the front).
Mount the template to that mark through the mark to the right of
centerline. Drill your holes.
It took me about 15 minutes. I love this engine, it's so easy to work
with.
The standard muffler will fit with plenty of room.
TF
Back to mounting the engine.
I used Tom's method of having wood dowels for stand offs. Using wood has been my way from the first 28% Extra I had a few years ago and it still works great. So off to the hardware store to obtain a 48" length of 3/4" poplar wood dowel. I think it cost me a grand total of about $4.00. You can buy and use aluminum standoffs if you really feel the need but the wood ones work as well or better with no weight penalty.
Tom's plane has 1/4" clearance between the prop and the cowl, but I wanted a little more for a slightly more scale appearence. So I elected to make 1-1/4" stand offs to obtain 1/2" prop to cowl clearance. The length of the engine bolts will be determined by the lengtrh of the standoff. I had some 10-32 x 3" bolts here that worked just fine. If you elect to go shorter or longer on the prop to cowl distance be sure to consider what you can easliy obtain for mounting bolts for the local hardware store. There's always Microfastener.com or "all thread" if you can't come up with something locally.
When hanging the 3mm-53 the template method works just great. Just don't get in a big hurry like I did and miss the engine's height relationship with the firewall when you mount the engine. This one is a touch below center. Won't make any difference but the spinner may look a little funny. That's what happens when you don't follow the directions to stand the plane on it's tail to "sight" the engine and leave it laying down to make it easier.... It took about 30 minutes but I went back and raised the engine 3/16" to center it correctly. Next time I'll do it right the first time
The last picture is there as proof that I did indeed go back and fix the engine height
In any case, anyone remember where in the 3mm engine thread I noted that the carb tuning screws were in a good place? Here's the proof of that. You can't get an easier to adjust carb location. Servos for the choke (if you use a choke servo) and the throttle will be mounted on the right side of the plane. The engine box will be a good place for them when you see how the linkage runs. Tom sent me a picture of a choke servo installation so it's included here for those that go that route.
One pic here is to show the way the cowl fits the fuselage lines. Nice.
Engine Mounting
Tom sent me this note the other day that applies to mounting the 3mm engine. The same information is in the manual but I thought I would post it here as well. Mounting the 3mm-53 really is this easy in the Sukhoi.
I made the mounting template and marked the firewall last night so the engine is just about ready to go on. The firewall center line is in the middle of the firewall pass through cut out so you'll need to use a couple of pieces of masking tape to mark on. Too easy. I'll post some pics of the process a bit later.
Copy of note:
I mounted the 3mm 53 on the Sukhoi today.
You will need 1" standoffs to get about 1/4" clearance between the prop
and the cowl. I just cut 4 1" pieces of 3/4" hardwood dowel and
drilled
the center. I also put a washer between the engine and the dowel to
keep it from compressing.
Make a template of the engine with the 4 mounting lugs and a small
hole where the centerline of the crank is. You can find a little bump
in the center of the rear bearing carrier, that's the centerline.
Find the center of the firewall and make a mark 1/4" to the left
(*right when looking at the front).
Mount the template to that mark through the mark to the right of
centerline. Drill your holes.
It took me about 15 minutes. I love this engine, it's so easy to work
with.
The standard muffler will fit with plenty of room.
TF
Back to mounting the engine.
I used Tom's method of having wood dowels for stand offs. Using wood has been my way from the first 28% Extra I had a few years ago and it still works great. So off to the hardware store to obtain a 48" length of 3/4" poplar wood dowel. I think it cost me a grand total of about $4.00. You can buy and use aluminum standoffs if you really feel the need but the wood ones work as well or better with no weight penalty.
Tom's plane has 1/4" clearance between the prop and the cowl, but I wanted a little more for a slightly more scale appearence. So I elected to make 1-1/4" stand offs to obtain 1/2" prop to cowl clearance. The length of the engine bolts will be determined by the lengtrh of the standoff. I had some 10-32 x 3" bolts here that worked just fine. If you elect to go shorter or longer on the prop to cowl distance be sure to consider what you can easliy obtain for mounting bolts for the local hardware store. There's always Microfastener.com or "all thread" if you can't come up with something locally.
When hanging the 3mm-53 the template method works just great. Just don't get in a big hurry like I did and miss the engine's height relationship with the firewall when you mount the engine. This one is a touch below center. Won't make any difference but the spinner may look a little funny. That's what happens when you don't follow the directions to stand the plane on it's tail to "sight" the engine and leave it laying down to make it easier.... It took about 30 minutes but I went back and raised the engine 3/16" to center it correctly. Next time I'll do it right the first time
The last picture is there as proof that I did indeed go back and fix the engine heightIn any case, anyone remember where in the 3mm engine thread I noted that the carb tuning screws were in a good place? Here's the proof of that. You can't get an easier to adjust carb location. Servos for the choke (if you use a choke servo) and the throttle will be mounted on the right side of the plane. The engine box will be a good place for them when you see how the linkage runs. Tom sent me a picture of a choke servo installation so it's included here for those that go that route.
One pic here is to show the way the cowl fits the fuselage lines. Nice.
06-09-2008 | 03:21 AM
#1133
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Orange,
CA
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: fox6
Hey Tom,
I guess it is just as easy to ask you here than bug you on the phone. I am that annoying guy in Ohio who just bought a Honda Suk 50cc and my buddy an extra. Have some mercy, this is only my second plane that runs on liquid so my experience with setup is pretty much restricted to electric or nitro helis. Couple of build questions:
1.) I got the 5945 servo package and have no idea as to what crank arm for the rudder I should use
2.) Is there any template that exists for cutting out the cowl for cylinder, plug wire, and stock TOC 3MM muffler? Would hate to screw up a beautiful cowl
3.) Can you recommend what batteries and how many I should use (TOC 3MM, 5945s, JR 9 channel, 1 rudder servo).
4.) How many switches do I need, I bought the MPI that has a battery level indicator along with charging port. Do I need one for the ignition battery as well or can I pigtail them into one switch?
That should be enough to keep me puzzled for awhile. Thanks again for your great product and service.
Hey Tom,
I guess it is just as easy to ask you here than bug you on the phone. I am that annoying guy in Ohio who just bought a Honda Suk 50cc and my buddy an extra. Have some mercy, this is only my second plane that runs on liquid so my experience with setup is pretty much restricted to electric or nitro helis. Couple of build questions:
1.) I got the 5945 servo package and have no idea as to what crank arm for the rudder I should use
2.) Is there any template that exists for cutting out the cowl for cylinder, plug wire, and stock TOC 3MM muffler? Would hate to screw up a beautiful cowl
3.) Can you recommend what batteries and how many I should use (TOC 3MM, 5945s, JR 9 channel, 1 rudder servo).
4.) How many switches do I need, I bought the MPI that has a battery level indicator along with charging port. Do I need one for the ignition battery as well or can I pigtail them into one switch?
That should be enough to keep me puzzled for awhile. Thanks again for your great product and service.
here is some info that may help you,
for the rudder I would use an aluminum 3" Double arm from the likes of SWB or Airwild no offset necessary.Tom Carries this
Easiest way to Guarantee you cut the cowl right is to remove the cowl and tape some stiff paper to the fuse back far enough that if you put the cowl back on it clears the tape line where you attached the paper to the fuse with tape. also make sure you tape the paper in place so that it folds back out of the way. now with the cowl off mark out all your cut lines on the paper, cut out the paper for a template and remove engine. Reinstall Cowl and fold paper back over cowl and Voila, Just trace your template you just made and should be fine.
You can use any of the following Batteries ... Lipoly 7.4 v with a regulator ( Heavy ) Nicad or Nimh 4.8 - 6v no reg , or A123 Li-on no reg (requires special charger) I think tom Carries the A123 and you can get a good charger from FMA Direct ( cellpro 4 ). as far as number of batteries goes I would stick with one batt and one switch each for the receiver and ignition. some people double up on the receiver batts and switches for redundancy but I just make sure I have a switch that fails on and use 2 leads into the receiver to split the amp draw across 2 connectors
hope this helped
Oh also, on the engine mounting if you are using blind nuts make sure to loctite the bolts. also to double check your engine mounting put the cowl on and observe if the engine shaft is centered in the cowl opening, easier to do with Spinner on. If it looks ok to you than just leave it if its off you gonna have to re-do it , in which case I would pulg the holes with hardwood dowels and trim them flush with firewall and this time use through bolts with Nylock nuts for safety.
06-09-2008 | 06:05 AM
#1134
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Just make sure you used loctite on the bolts or yes back them with nylocks as aaxiss has said 2 switches one for receiver and one for ignition A123s would be great. Oh and one battery will most likely go on the engine box the one for the ignition and the battery for the receiver back by the wingtube !! Use metal arms on all the servos I think Tom has them if not TBM has some good ones the 1 1/4 arms work great and a 3 inch dual for the rudder and run a pull pull setup and the balance will be very close have fun she is a great bird. Enough for now I am going FLYING !!!!! The 3MM is getting stronger and stronger !!!
06-09-2008 | 06:21 AM
#1135
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Appleton,
WI
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: rctom
True red, just like the Honda scheme.
TF
ORIGINAL: Flyer Freq
I have looked, and I can't find it. I know the Honda Sukhoi is True Red, Ultracote. I have the yellow and red Sukhoi, and I want some red for the hinge gaps. I bought flame red, since it looked right with the clear wrapper on. Well,... with the rapper off it isn't even close[:@]. Does anyone know what color it really is?[sm=confused.gif]
I have looked, and I can't find it. I know the Honda Sukhoi is True Red, Ultracote. I have the yellow and red Sukhoi, and I want some red for the hinge gaps. I bought flame red, since it looked right with the clear wrapper on. Well,... with the rapper off it isn't even close[:@]. Does anyone know what color it really is?[sm=confused.gif]
TF
Andy
06-09-2008 | 07:17 AM
#1136
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
1.) I got the 5945 servo package and have no idea as to what crank arm for the rudder I should use
2.) Is there any template that exists for cutting out the cowl for cylinder, plug wire, and stock TOC 3MM muffler? Would hate to screw up a beautiful cowl
3.) Can you recommend what batteries and how many I should use (TOC 3MM, 5945s, JR 9 channel, 1 rudder servo).
4.) How many switches do I need, I bought the MPI that has a battery level indicator along with charging port. Do I need one for the ignition battery as well or can I pigtail them into one switch?
TF
06-09-2008 | 07:46 AM
#1137
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Milford,
OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Hey Fox6. I live in Cincinnati and have the SU26. I'd be happy to get together with you some time. You are only about 1-1/2hrs from me. You could run down, see my plane and setup and watch it fly. Just an offer. This is my first gasser and I know I went through all of the 1000 questions you have right now also. I don't believe I could have done it without this thread. Send me a PM if interested.
06-09-2008 | 01:05 PM
#1138
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Well had a mishap today figures since I had it flying great and was loving it!!!! OK so first things first make sure you CHECK and LOCTITE all your screws on your servos ESPECIALLY the Ailerons one came out and bit me was flying and she would not roll for nothing so figured it was time to land it was a little windy was coming in and she rolled a little went to correct and BLAM cartwheel not a total loss tore the engine off with the firewall and broke the carbon tailtube and left Elevator and stripped the servo and put a hole in my pretty cowl !!!! Have had worse will be back up soon Tom has all the parts!!!!
06-09-2008 | 03:19 PM
#1139
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Orange,
CA
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Wow that blows....
But thanks for the info, that is one thing I didn't have on my preflight checklist. I am very sorry about your tumble Roboto . I hope you have the resources to get it back in the air soon, this is a great flying plane I would hate to have mine down for any amount of time.
But thanks for the info, that is one thing I didn't have on my preflight checklist. I am very sorry about your tumble Roboto . I hope you have the resources to get it back in the air soon, this is a great flying plane I would hate to have mine down for any amount of time.
06-09-2008 | 04:39 PM
#1140
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Here's a hint on this subject.
Spend 5 bucks and buy a bag of socket head servo screws from Micro-fasteners. It's not possible to get the phillips head screws tight and they break off easily, teh better screws can be tightened with an allen wrench and don't break. I've never had one come loose and I've used hundreds of them. No loctite is required.
TF
Spend 5 bucks and buy a bag of socket head servo screws from Micro-fasteners. It's not possible to get the phillips head screws tight and they break off easily, teh better screws can be tightened with an allen wrench and don't break. I've never had one come loose and I've used hundreds of them. No loctite is required.
TF
06-09-2008 | 04:52 PM
#1141
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Tom are you talking about the screw that holds the servo arm to the output shaft or holds the servo in the wood if it is the one for the output shaft if you have a size could you post it and I will get some for next time.. Thanks
06-09-2008 | 05:10 PM
#1142
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: west babylon, NY
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Just a dabb of RTV on the screw works great. I usually use the orange type so you can see it's there when it squeezes out from under the screw head. It's also alot easier to take the screw out when you want than loctite. Never had one come loose yet but I have had the scews come out without it, luckily only on the ground during engine break ins before all linkages were finalized. Sorry about your plane Roboto.
06-09-2008 | 05:24 PM
#1143
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
If it helps Fox6, Go back and read this whole thread from start to finnish and note down the post # you find most relevant, this thing is just chock full of good ideas and solutions to all questions, as aaxiss said its easyier to build with this thread.
Lee
Lee
06-09-2008 | 05:37 PM
#1144
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
To Macboy65,"You can keep some of the people happy some of the time, you can't keep all the people happy all the time" I think an American said that??????
Very wise!!
Very wise!!
06-09-2008 | 05:58 PM
#1145
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Thanks everyone for the condolences LOL I chalk it up to R/C and learning curve which with this thread is way less than on my own have a great friend that put her together and with another friend she will live again to fight again. I learned along time ago though if you worry about crashing you will have no fun in this hobby. I take crashes with a grain of salt I never let them get me down. It was a COOL cartwheel [8D][8D]
I chalk it up to R/C and learning curve which with this thread is way less than on my own have a great friend that put her together and with another friend she will live again to fight again. I learned along time ago though if you worry about crashing you will have no fun in this hobby. I take crashes with a grain of salt I never let them get me down. It was a COOL cartwheel [8D][8D]
06-09-2008 | 07:21 PM
#1146
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: roboto65
Tom are you talking about the screw that holds the servo arm to the output shaft or holds the servo in the wood if it is the one for the output shaft if you have a size could you post it and I will get some for next time.. Thanks
Tom are you talking about the screw that holds the servo arm to the output shaft or holds the servo in the wood if it is the one for the output shaft if you have a size could you post it and I will get some for next time.. Thanks
But since you asked getting some of the socket head servo screws that hold the servo to the mounts is a great time saver. I use them for all kinds of stuff besides mounting the servos.
TF
06-09-2008 | 07:28 PM
#1147
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Awesome thanks Tom yeah I use those socket head screws to mount all my servos did not know about the ones for the output shaft Thanks I will be contacting you soon about a Cowl and Elevator half soon and glad to here you guys are doing well ..
06-09-2008 | 09:02 PM
#1148
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
ORIGINAL: darkwarder
Hey Fox6. I live in Cincinnati and have the SU26. I'd be happy to get together with you some time. You are only about 1-1/2hrs from me. You could run down, see my plane and setup and watch it fly. Just an offer. This is my first gasser and I know I went through all of the 1000 questions you have right now also. I don't believe I could have done it without this thread. Send me a PM if interested.
Hey Fox6. I live in Cincinnati and have the SU26. I'd be happy to get together with you some time. You are only about 1-1/2hrs from me. You could run down, see my plane and setup and watch it fly. Just an offer. This is my first gasser and I know I went through all of the 1000 questions you have right now also. I don't believe I could have done it without this thread. Send me a PM if interested.
Jeff
06-09-2008 | 09:08 PM
#1149
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , OH
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Hey Tom,
It turns out that your most recent SU 26 kit with the big hole drilled in the firewall is spot on. I told you that I used the paper template supplied with the engine and superimposed it's hole over the hole in the firewall and it appears to be dead centered in the cowl. So glad I didn't have to plug and redrill.
It turns out that your most recent SU 26 kit with the big hole drilled in the firewall is spot on. I told you that I used the paper template supplied with the engine and superimposed it's hole over the hole in the firewall and it appears to be dead centered in the cowl. So glad I didn't have to plug and redrill.
06-10-2008 | 08:11 AM
#1150
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: western,
WA
RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Hello,
I'm changing over to 2.4 and intend to use a AR 9000 in the Suk is this appropriate? I'm using A123 batteries with twin leads and two switches to the RX. I'm set up for connecting the second lead from the ignition battery to the rx as well. I wasn't comfortable with the ign / rx bat sharing with the 72 tx.
Thanks
Obee
I'm changing over to 2.4 and intend to use a AR 9000 in the Suk is this appropriate? I'm using A123 batteries with twin leads and two switches to the RX. I'm set up for connecting the second lead from the ignition battery to the rx as well. I wasn't comfortable with the ign / rx bat sharing with the 72 tx.
Thanks
Obee
