Hey guys and gals! Geoff Barber here, and I’m back with another airplane review! We’re going to take a look at the new Tower Hobbies Uproar V2 ARF.
The original Uproar was released back in 1994, and was a hit for many, many years. Available as a kit first, and later as an ARF, the Uproar was great – with a simple box fuselage and a fat ‘Hershey Bar’ wing, the original was a fun fly dream! So why a V2, you might ask? That’s an EXCELLENT question! the answer is not only a why, but a ‘who’ so to speak. The answer to both is Gary Wright. Gary works for Hobbico. By trade, he works in quadcopter development, but one of his passions is designing his own airplanes. Gary took what was good with the original Uproar, and made it better – Interested to find out what makes the Uproar V2 better than the original? Read on!
Wingspan: 47.6″ (1210 mm)
Length: 48.1″ (1222 mm)
Wing Area: 630.8 sq in (40.7 sq dm)
Wing Loading: 16-17 oz/sq ft (51-52 g/sq dm)
Weight (Ready to Fly with Glow Engine, No Fuel): 4 lbs, 8 oz. (2154.5 g)
Required to Complete
Radio System: 4-5 (Minimum) Channel Transmitter and Receiver
Servos: 4-5 mini servos (high speed servos recommended)
Receiver battery: 2S 6.6 Volt LiFe (1300 mAh recommended due to size)
Two 6″ servo wire extensions
On/Off receiver switch
Engine: .46 ci 2-Stroke glow engine (or 4-stroke equivalent)
Glow fuel accessories and fuel tubing
Motor: .32 brushless outrunner motor and 80 Amp ESC
Battery for Electric Power: 4S 3300-4000 mAh LiPo
Suitable propeller for engine/motor
Standard RC airplane assembly/building tools
Thin, Medium, and Thick CA
5 and 30 minute epoxy
The Uproar V2 arrived in a plain white box with a single label on one end. There’s a color photo of the assembled airplane on the label, but otherwise not much information. Packaging inside the box was quite standard, and consisted of bagged parts taped together. I unpacked all the parts and checked everything over – all parts were accounted for, and they were in great shape! The Uproar V2 has a low parts count, so I’m going to assume that it’ll go together quickly.
One of the first things I noticed about the V2 were the two hatches. These hatches will make assembly easier, as well as allow access for quick flight battery changes (electric power) and easy field assembly! Speaking of field assembly, this is also a major change from the original Uproar. V2 has a removable two-piece wing! Not that a 48″ wing is that big, but sometimes it’s just easier to remove the wing for transport and storage.
Each pre-assembled piece of the Uproar V2 is covered in white Oracover, and all the control surfaces have been pre-hinged. The hinges MUST BE GLUE IN PLACE, but the slots are all pre-cut, saving time during assembly. A pair of Side Force Generators (SFGs) are included to improve high alpha and knife edge flight. The clear canopy is a nice touch, and is simply glued to the top of the fuselage.
The wire landing gear appears to be plenty robust, and the sprung, steerable tail wheel should be a benefit on the ground. A nice glow engine mount and fuel tank are included, along with an assortment of high quality hardware.
The manual did a great job – it was laid out well, had nice illustrations, and the written instructions were clear and concise! Even a beginner could assemble the Uproar V2 with ease!
Items Used For Completion
Guiding the Uproar V2 from the ground will be my trusty Futaba T10CAG transmitter – she’s not the newest model available, but she’s a great transmitter! A Futaba R617FS 7-channel receiver and five Tactic TSX20 high speed mini servos will be mounted in the airframe.
Powering the receiver will be a LiFe Source Lithium-Iron Phosphate 6.6 Volt (2S) 1300 mAh battery. Tower has a recommendation of four 6″ servo wire extensions, but only two are needed for the ailerons. A receiver power switch is also required, and I’ll be using the SYSTEM2.4 switch from Tower Hobbies.
Power for this review will come from the recommended O.S. .46 AX II glow engine and an APC 11×6 propeller. There is no fuel line supplied with the Uproar V2, so you’ll have to get your own. I keep a roll of DuBro Super Blue Silicone Tubing on hand for just these occasions!
Assembly began with separating the ailerons from the wing panels and removing any wrinkles in the covering. It’s also important to make sure that the covering is well adhered to the structure underneath, so that the covering stays put when the aileron servo openings are cut.
The aileron hinges were then installed and secured using thin CA. Using a pair of T-Pins on each of the hinges makes it really easy to keep the hinges centered while installing them. Leaving a small gap (1/16″ or less) will ensure that a full range of motion is available. Here’s a quick video in case anyone wants a tutorial on installing CA Hinges – my late friend and former RCUniverse writer, Mike Buzzeo, and I made this video a number of years ago. Miss ya, Mikey!
I have a long music wire that I have bent a hook into one end. It’s thin, flexible, and great for pulling servo wires through wings! The servo screw holes were drilled and ‘tapped’ by running a screw into and then removed from the hole.
A drop of thin CA hardens the screw holes before the servo is installed. This helps to keep the servo screws tight and keep them from backing out due to vibration.
The pushrod was assembled and attached to the control horn with a machine screw, and set in place to find the location for the control horn mounting holes. The holes were then drilled.
I again applied a drop of thin CA to each of the holes before attaching the control horn to the aileron. The screws are just long enough!
With the length of the pushrod determined, it was bent and cut to length. a plastic snap keeper will secure the pushrod to the servo arm.
Moving on to the fuselage, I started by removing the covering from the horizontal stabilizer slot. There’s a wooden spacer inside the slot that must be removed prior to installing the stabilizer.
Here’s a little tool I made to help with covering removal from small holes. Essentially, it’s a short piece of thin wire that I glued into a hardwood square dowel handle. To use it, I heat the wire with a torch, and melt the covering from wherever I want to expose the wood, hole, etc. It works well, and leaves a pretty clean ‘cut’ when done right!
Here you can see all the areas that I removed the covering with my wire tool. I really like using it because it has no way to cut the wood structure under the covering!
To properly attach the horizontal and vertical stabilizers, I needed a reference point to make sure the stab was properly aligned, so I installed the wing! The aluminum wing tube was slid through the fuselage, and the wing panels were then slid onto the wing tube. A pair of retainer screws and fiberglass washers inside the fuse keep the wing panels attached to the fuselage.
The horizontal and vertical stabilizers were temporarily installed to check their fit and alignment with the wing. All looked well, so the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer were marked with a fine-tipped making pen.
I removed the covering from under the vertical stabilizer and, according to the instructions, poked many, many holes in the covering and wood structure of the horizontal stabilizer.
The horizontal stabilizer was then attached with 30 minute epoxy – I used a rag and some denatured alcohol to remove the excess epoxy from the fuselage after the stabilizer was in place. I like denatured alcohol because it works better than isopropyl alcohol for cleaning up epoxy. The small pieces of scrap wood also served as a squeegee to remove the uncured epoxy prior to cleanup with alcohol and a rag.
The vertical stabilizer was installed next – I installed it using the same batch of 30-minute epoxy, making sure that the stabilizers stayed in alignment until the epoxy had cured.
Because of the positioning of the receiver battery, the manual recommends installation at this point – once you install the pushrods, it’s impossible to get the battery into position. The LiFe Source battery was wrapped in DuBro 1/4″ R/C Protective Foam Rubber, and then secured with the provided balsa stick.
I attached the elevator halves with CA hinges in the same manner I did for the ailerons – note the control throw in the last photo!
I cut the lower rudder hinge slot using a razor blade, then assembled the two 22-1/4″ elevator pushrods and control horns. with the pushrods slid into the guide tube, I marked and drilled the control horn mounting holes.
A drop of thin CA applied to each of the control horn holes will strengthen the wood. the control horns were then attached to the elevator halves.
The rudder pushrod and control horn were assembled and installed in the same manner as the elevator pushrods, but this was done BEFORE the rudder hinges were glued in place with thin CA.
I bent and cut the short pushrod to length according to the instructions, then installed it and the elevator pushrod link. With the pushrod locations now determined, the elevator and rudder servos were temporarily installed to find their proper location. I then drilled the servo mounting holes. A couple of slight bends in the rudder pushrod allowed it to travel smoothly in its guide tube.
The servo holes were tapped like I did for the ailerons, then a drop of thin CA hardened the holes. When the CA had cured, the servos were installed and the pushrods were connected to the servo arms. the elevator pushrod link was tightened once servo and elevator halves were centered.
It’s time to add some POWER! As I mentioned earlier, I’ll be using the O.S. .46 AX II for this review, so I drilled the four pre-marked holes in the firewall for the engine mount. The blind nuts were then pressed into the holes and the engine mount was installed. I then attached the .46 AX II to the engine mount, aligning the rear pre-drilled holes in the mount with the front engine lug holes. This places the engine as far rearward on the mount as possible, which will hopefully eliminate the addition of weight to the tail to balance the Uproar V2.
The throttle servo was attached to its mount, and then the mount was glued into the fuselage using thick CA.
The throttle pushrod guide tube was marked and cut to length, and glued into the firewall with thick CA. Note – this is the ONLY place that the throttle pushrod is glued! When the CA had cured, I installed the throttle pushrod and attached it to the arm on the carburetor.
I attached the screw lock connector to the throttle servo arm, and slid the throttle pushrod through the connector. a drop of blue thread locking compound was applied to the set screw before tightening it into the screw lock connector. Lastly, I secured the throttle servo arm with its retention screw.
The fuel tank was assembled easily following the instructions – because the fuel line to the carburetor is easily accessible, a simple two-line fuel system is all that we need.
After I verified that the vent line was at the top of the fuel tank, I removed the fuel tank/battery tray from the fuselage and temporarily strapped the fuel tank in place. This was done so that the straps can be cut to the proper length – don’t forget to add a piece of DuBro 1/4″ R/C Protective Foam Rubber under the tank! I then removed the tank and reinstalled the tray back in the fuselage.
A 12″ piece of DuBro Super Blue Silicone Tubing was attached in a loop to the fuel tank. The loop made it easy to pull the fuel line through the hole in the firewall. I strapped the fuel tank in place, installed the muffler on the engine, and cut and installed the two fuel lines – one to the carburetor and the other to the pressure fitting on the muffler.
Because space is somewhat limited, I decided to install a DuBro Kwik Switch Mount. This helps to keep the switch protected from exhaust residue! The Futaba receiver was installed using a piece of Adhesive-backed Velcro , and the dual antennas were routed using left over pieces of the throttle pushrod guide tube.
The main landing gear template was cut from the back page of the manual and taped in place on the bottom of the fuselage. A T-Pin was used to poke holes in the covering through the marked points on the template.
Because the fuel tank is mounted inside the fuselage, you will want to make sure you don’t drill through the landing gear mount. I wrapped a piece of tape around my drill bit to keep me from drilling more than 9 mm deep. Each of holes was then tapped with a screw and a drop of thin CA hardened the freshly cut threads.
I ground a flat spot in the bottom of each axle and installed the wheels and wheel collars. A drop of blue thread locking compound was added to each of the wheel collar set screws.
The main gear was then attached using eight wood screws and four nylon straps. It’s a simple, effective way to attach the gear!
The tail wheel bracket was attached next, and was really simple using the instructions. Again, the mounting holes were drilled, tapped, and hardened before attaching the tail wheel bracket to the fuselage.
Two nylon tiller brackets are used to attach the tail wheel bracket to the bottom edge of the rudder, and they must be drilled out to accept the tail wheel tiller arm. After drilling two holes through the rudder, a pair of screws held the tiller brackets in place. the tail wheel was then installed with a pair of wheel collars.
I cut the canopy at the mounting flange and glued it to the top of the fuselage with Formula 560 canopy glue – a small 1/16″ hole was then drilled in the back of the canopy near the base to allow moisture to escape as the glue dried. Masking tape held the canopy in place while the canopy glue dried.
Installing the APC 11×6 propeller and included spinner wrapped up the basic assembly.
I cut out all the decals and applied them per the manual and box photo. This step took a considerable amount of time, but was worth the effort!
The last things I needed to do were attach the Side Force Generators (SFGs) and balance the Uproar V2. Thankfully, the Center of Gravity (CG) came out spot on, and I didn’t have to add any weight or move anything inside the plane!
Here she is, ready to go to the field for the maiden flight!
As luck would have it, the weekend after I completed assembly, a local event was held at a nearby club! The ‘Blue Sky Fun Fly’, which was hosted by the Paynesville Radio Controllers in Paynesville, Mn, was held the weekend of July 7-9 2017. This was a fun event that was attended by a pretty decent crowd!
Though my usual video pilot, Jim Buzzeo, was not available to help me this weekend, I was lucky enough to have Ross Hollermann at the sticks while I shot photos and video. The video you’ll see in just a bit was flown by Ross, who is an accomplished RC pilot!
The fuel tank was filled and I started the O.S. .46 AX II – running on only its second tank of fuel, the engine was still brand new! I taxied out and turned the Uproar V2 into the light breeze and advanced the throttle. The plane gathered speed quickly, and was very quickly airborne, climbing out easily as the new .46 AX II ran perfectly! When I had reached an altitude of ‘two mistakes’ high, I checked for trim requirements. A few clicks of left aileron and one click of up elevator had the Uproar V2 flying hands off.
As I was flying on a day with some really white clouds, it became clear just how important the decals were on this plane – without them, there’s no orientation – it’s ALL white! I would have liked another color on the bottom side of the wing and fuselage, and may add something to help with better differentiation between top and bottom.
I pushed the throttle to wide open, and the Uproar V2 ate up a lot of airspace really quickly – she’s pretty fast, even with that fat wing! at top end, she’ll respond to any input from the transmitter nearly instantly!
Slowing down was easy as well – with a gentle pull on the right stick, the Uproar will nearly float along at idle without stalling. Speaking of stalling, when I finally did get the Uproar V2 to stall, it just drops the nose gently. Gary has done an excellent job making this plane fly very well!
Moving on to aerobatics, I started throwing everything I could think of at the Uproar V2 – she handled everything but some really hardcore 3D maneuvers with ease. This plane can hover on an 11×6 prop, and there’s just enough muscle left to pull out of that hover without ‘falling over’ torque rolls and rolling circles, and high alpha flight are all within the realm of capable for the Uproar V2! with the rate switch set to low, the Uproar V2 can be a mild mannered sport plane that any intermediate pilot can handle easily. flipping to high rates will give you a roll rate so fast, you’ll lose count of the rolls! The large rudder and SFGs give the Uproar the ability to fly knife edge from end to end of the field as well!
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention flying the Uproar V2 inverted – this plane is as comfortable inverted as it is upright, and requires almost no down elevator input to keep it flying straight and level!
After an eight or ten minute flight, it was time to bring her in for a landing. Now one of the things I like about the Paynesville field is that it’s runway is about twice the size of my local field. This makes it easy to land nearly anything, but the Uproar V2 used less than a third of the field to land! It’s one of the easiest planes I’ve EVER landed!
Check out the videos below to see the Tower Hobbies Uproar V2 in action. I shot and produced the first video, and the second is Tower’s promotional video.
So it’s time to wrap this one up. Personally knowing Gary Wright, and being able to call him a friend, is pretty cool. But, that’s not why I’m saying good things about this airplane. I’m saying these things because the Tower Hobbies Uproar V2 is an outstanding airplane! It assembled really easy, looks pretty cool, and flies very well – my only concern is the lack of a differentiating color on the bottom side of the plane. Adding a different color to the bottom would really make orientation easy. With that said, I really liked flying the Uproar V2 – the addition of a removable two-piece wing, a couple of sweet hatches, and the Side Force Generators kicks the V2 to a whole new level of FUN! -GB